Chris`I

Have a look in the service manual (Guide or FAQ section for download IIRC). It tells you in there how to do it. Basically, its get the rear wheels off and up in the air. Turn the acces port on the disc around to 11-1 o'clock and you will see the winder. Wind it up until you can turn the wheel, then wind it back however many it tells you in the service manaul (IIRC about 4 clicks). Do this on both wheels and you should be good to go. Dont leave it too tight or it will rub all the time and could knacker the discs and handbrake drum/pads

Which version does your friend have? Is it the newer 2010 model or the slightly older 2009 (easy way to tell is the 2009 doesnt have touch screen). If its the new 2010, it is very unlikely the discs will work. The 2009 however may work as it looks very much like the old 350z satnav. No way of knowing without trying though. However it is highly illegal to share maps between owners

There was a major revision to the satnav/in-car entertainment for the MY2010 model. If you are looking for one with Satnav, either make sure they take a big chunk (ie almost free nav) off for a MY2009 w/nav. Depending on the price difference I would (and have) go for a MY2010. Search for my thread on "Connect Premium" to see the differences between the two. Other than Satnav, no real revisions made, so you could save yourself a few bob if that doesnt bother you.

Get it adjusted. Can be a bit of a PITA and from what I gather most garages dont seem to do it right. But when I take mine in they do it every time and its pretty much always spot on. You still need to have it on quite hard, but it doesnt travel half as far to do it as when I first got the car!

Yup, I have a Kestrel DA6 from Matt@i4detailing (7MAT on here). Great bit of kit, and very reasonably priced.

Ask them how many they have done, what gains they have seen and what software they use to reflash it. If they get back to you chances are they do know what they're doing, but personally from what I've seen, these kinds of people dont get back to you. RST or Abbey are known to do good work, use the right software and are honest with their work. Hightly recommeneded in many car communities, not just here

Lots of reading up to do mate, hit up http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/ for all the information you need. I would do a lot of reading on this subject, its not to be taken lightly. The Zed paint is thin and soft, so very easy to take off more paint than you expect which then means you need to have it resprayed

Moved to exhaust section

Yup, the auto can handle all the torque you are likely to throw at it. In the States they have a supercharger kit that chucks out 500HP that they tested on an auto

Remember the engine is still tight though. It will gain a good few MPG over that when the engine is loosened up fully around 10-15k miles Good to see a tight engine getting those kinds of MPG, over in the States they struggle to get over 25MPG on tight engines

Paid mine up earlier too

If Rob's said its ok then sure, just make sure you are on time Rob knows the organisers so knows the setup and if he's said its ok we should have more than enough space.

Think you'll find the auto is a bit quicker actually, especially in straight line, but thats not the fun bit As Colin has said, its down to personal preference. This time around I have gone for an auto as this is the first car (in my price range) with a gearbox comparable to shift times of a manual and responsiveness good enough to tear me away from heel-toe fun. Both boxes are hugely enjoyable, its down to personal preference which you prefer. I agree with Jamie though, dont just plump for the auto if its the only one on offerm wait for what you want, there are plenty of them out there to be had. Also haggle on the prices, they are always open to movement. Then push them for freebies like matts and gap insurance

Oh Mart, that sucks!

Yup, just trying to work out if it was user error in the first instance or if he really needs to look at getting something much better. The problem wil more aggressive pads is the cold bite will likely be even worse!

Manufacturers quote flywheel - or more importantly - engine HP, which they will get from strapping the engine to an engine dyno (ie completely out of a car). Dyno centres can have varying setups. Some can dyno the engine, but means taking it out of the car, that will get you true engine HP. Most have rollers, where you strap the car down. This measures torque (not HP) at the rollers and interpolates power at the wheels and also can calculate the transmission losses and estimate flywheel HP. This is a guess though. Similarly hub dynos measure torque at the hub and interpolates power and can also guess at flywheel power. Should also be noted that ramair effect does work quite well on superbikes. If they have a ramair intake system, a normal dyno fan will not generate the required airflow and pressure for this to work properly. This means he will lose top end on the dyno as its not the same as the open road. Not quite the same on a car as the effect isnt anywhere near as profound (not sure it even works on cars)

The traders will sort you out mate, much cheaper than Nissan

As i said, and i thought i had explained enough for people to understand, but obviously not, They where bedded in properly! i think at the time it was something like progressively harder stopping and heating, but without overheating them. But that still doesnt explain what you actually did. Let me explain where I am coming from. When I first bed my DS2500 in they were not as good as I thought they would be, and that was using a similar style, progressively getting harder on the brakes and warming them up. This wasnt enough. You have to put some real heat in them, when you do they fade badly and start to stink, thats when they are done. After doing that, the pads were much better. On my first attempt, I did not get proper pad transfer, hence they didnt work as well as they should. Just trying to understand why you didnt get the performance out of them. Sounds to me like you want something more aggressive, but that wont be in the form of a budget pad - thats for sure

Supprised at your findings with the DS2500. Broken in properly, they are markably better than the OEM pads and have both good cold bite and fade resistance. What break in proceedure did you use? I found DS2500s have to be very warm on break in to get them to transfer pad material properly. Just diving them for 5k miles wont break them in properly or bed them to the discs.

Looks good Moved to styling as technically its not a GB but from a GB

Oops, havent paid yet, will do it now

No thinking required, Nissan quite openly said they used the Cayman as the benchtest for the 370z, they felt no qualms in openly saying they were going after it

definite heavy foot +1

Nice one Mart! When you finish taking it for a blast, get it cleaned and get some pics up

How new are the tyres? When tyres are made they have release agent to help them pop out the mould, which can be very slippy. It can take upto 500 miles for this to wear off. That might be your issue. Sounds like you have the right profile tyres, so its likely to be release agent or tyre compound thats causing it. Do you have the same tyres (make and model) front and rear?