Dicky

PM'ed

Yeah that's one of the things that gave me confidence in him. I'll report back on how good the job turns out for the benefit of the guys up north (I live in Newcastle) best go by recommendation in these things.

Update.....bought some paint from a small local company who supply panels, paint etc to the body repair trade. Mentioned to the owner about the wheel arch rust starting to come through and he recommended a guy who carries out all of the local Jaguar main dealers repair work. He highly recommended him and said he wouldn't use anyone else. Well the cars going in this Monday for a week and he's going to cut out the rusted area, treat the inner surfaces with anti rust protection, weld in sections from new panels, completely seal the panels joining lip and respray. Total cost for both rear arches is £800. I had been quoted £1400 by Falcon so it sounds a fair price. Since the rust isn't really serious yet he said he could lead it if I wanted (no one else offered to lead it) but couldn't guarantee it, but thought it would last a couple of years or so while the cut out would last longer.

Oh my god what an ugly car! It looks like a motorists discount experiment to me. I'm sorry, not my cup of tea at all. It looks like its trying to hard. Better if it were more understated. I appreciate the engineering involved but not the look.

Thanks for that!

Thanks for the input all. Been mucho busy lately and forgot to respond. My main concern with spray painting is its resistance to scratching and would it all be in vain. What do you think the original covering on the gear knob surround and gauge panel is, some sort of wrap or paint?

Just read a post by Pauljames90 about a fault he's presently got with his Z and it made me think how useful it might be if the Forum had a section where Faults/Fixes could be posted to help the none technical members. It seems reasonable to assume that many could face the same problems over time and that a look up table or record would be very useful. Don't know how this would be set up and administered but if it's fairly easy it may be worth trying? Any comments on the idea? (Probably already available on the forum if I know my luck because as the wife is forever telling me when looking for things it's generally right under my nose)

Can't help I'm afraid but Tricky Ricky's advice seams sensible. Can you post the cause when you get it sorted because it can help other none technical members in the future. I'm thinking that a location on the forum where faults and causes suffered by members can be posted could be valuable?

I feared that may be the case. Have you done it yourself and discovered it's better to rub it all down?

Anyone spray painted their centre console from gear knob surround up. I've just sprayed my drivers door arm rest control switch panel with Halfords "Rubberised" paint and am quite pleased with it. I was wondering if I commit to the gear knob surround etc, which has that bubble effect finish, do you have to rub it all down or can you just spray on top. Like many others the bubbles around the gear knob surround are starting to burst exposing a grey underside and it's looking a bit tatty ?

Well here it is, I finally bought it and may I say one of Patek Philippes finest watches,worth every penny of the £80 asked for. Don't get JEALOUS now!

How does it follow that wearing a fake watch is linked to the size of your Todger. I can reliably inform that you wouldn'tt like mine on the end of your nose as a wart.

Constructive !

I've got a Seiko Gyro Marvel Automatic Diashock from the 60's and I love mine as well but it's showing its age now with the face deteriorating and scratched case. Can't find anyone to refirbish it though Edit..just to say it's still keeping good time.

As Ecclesiastes records,“Vanity of vanities, all is vanity.†And why should the unemployed and benifit generation have all the fun í ½í¸œ I suppose it all a punt really, so I'll buy the Patek Philippe or maybe the Rolex, but hang on that Rado looks quite swish, oh bugger!

Checked out YouTube as well but wish I hadn't now.

Very true !

Wow didn't expect answers for a day or so. docwra, thanks that's helpfull and i had the same fear regarding automatics, however been reading on the net a several seem to support them, I just don't know. Will probably go for battery though. 370Ad, see your point. I suppose I'm a bit of a cheap skate really and unfortunately very much into watches. I luv looking at them (bit like the Z I suppose) and could buy loads. I have a couple of halfway decent Longine watches at home but even if a fake lasted a year I'd enjoy the experience. My main concern is, will it last the flight home! Anyway it sounds as if £80 isn't a rip off price so now all I need to know is how to tell if the watch is a £20 no hoper or an £80 half chancer ha ha. keep it coming the more info the better

+1

Currently in Bodrum Turkey and been looking at some fake watches.nanybody bought one before and can offer any suggestions, are automatics better than battery, does more expensive mean more reliable. Seen a on automatic £20K Petak Phillipe fake for £80 does that sound a fair price. Any advice welcome

This is a well know rust trap on the earlier Z's. Water and dirt get between the inner and outer wheel arch panels causing rusting. Had a price of circa £1400 to sort it a couple of months ago which is better than the £4k quoted to replace the inner and outer panels. I've bought some rubber sealing strip from Amazon which I'm going to fit around the lip on both wheel arches along with some mastic sealant to provide a degree of protection.this is the rubber strip I settle on. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008FQ5BVY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Just to be clear in case Mr Plod (who I have great respect for) is reading this, these high speeds were on private roads...Yes

Would be much the same I expect, just I always select 2nd. So long as the flywheel is made to move and hopefully release the starter gear if it has got caught up. The more violent you can jog the flywheel the more chance it will release. The click you hear when trying to turn the engine over will be the starter solenoid relay pulling in to supply current to the starter motor.

Either the gear on the end of the starter motor which gets thrown into mesh with the fly wheel is damaged and sticking in mesh with the flywheel or the starter motor itself is duff. Have you tried putting the car in 2 nd gear and rocking it back and forwards to see if the starter motor gear wheel u meshes from the flywheel?

This may help...taken from the maintenance manual. If the car bump starts then the problem must lie within the following .. STARTING SYSTEM System Description M/T MODELS Power is supplied at all times: â— through 40A fusible link (letter M, located in the fuse and fusible link box) â— to ignition switch terminal 1 â— through 15A fuse (No.73, located in the IPDM E/R) â— to CPU of IPDM E/R. With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied: â— through 10A fuse (No.80, located in the IPDM E/R) â— to CPU of IPDM E/R â— through 10A fuse (No.71, located in the IPDM E/R) â— to clutch interlock switch terminal 1. When the clutch pedal is depressed, power is supplied â— through clutch interlock switch terminal 2 â— to IPDM E/R terminal 43. Ground is supplied: â— to IPDM E/ R terminals 14, 45 and 46 â— through body grounds E17, E43 and F152. Then starter relay is turn ON. With the ignition switch in the START position, IPDM E/R is energized and power is supplied: â— from ignition switch terminal 4 â— to IPDM E/R terminal 11 and â— through IPDM E/R terminal 4 â— to starter motor terminal 1. PFP:23300 The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and starter motor. The starter motor is grounded to the engine block. With power and ground supplied, cranking occurs and the engine starts.