Dicky

How does it follow that wearing a fake watch is linked to the size of your Todger. I can reliably inform that you wouldn'tt like mine on the end of your nose as a wart.

Constructive !

I've got a Seiko Gyro Marvel Automatic Diashock from the 60's and I love mine as well but it's showing its age now with the face deteriorating and scratched case. Can't find anyone to refirbish it though Edit..just to say it's still keeping good time.

As Ecclesiastes records,“Vanity of vanities, all is vanity.†And why should the unemployed and benifit generation have all the fun í ½í¸œ I suppose it all a punt really, so I'll buy the Patek Philippe or maybe the Rolex, but hang on that Rado looks quite swish, oh bugger!

Checked out YouTube as well but wish I hadn't now.

Very true !

Wow didn't expect answers for a day or so. docwra, thanks that's helpfull and i had the same fear regarding automatics, however been reading on the net a several seem to support them, I just don't know. Will probably go for battery though. 370Ad, see your point. I suppose I'm a bit of a cheap skate really and unfortunately very much into watches. I luv looking at them (bit like the Z I suppose) and could buy loads. I have a couple of halfway decent Longine watches at home but even if a fake lasted a year I'd enjoy the experience. My main concern is, will it last the flight home! Anyway it sounds as if £80 isn't a rip off price so now all I need to know is how to tell if the watch is a £20 no hoper or an £80 half chancer ha ha. keep it coming the more info the better

+1

Currently in Bodrum Turkey and been looking at some fake watches.nanybody bought one before and can offer any suggestions, are automatics better than battery, does more expensive mean more reliable. Seen a on automatic £20K Petak Phillipe fake for £80 does that sound a fair price. Any advice welcome

This is a well know rust trap on the earlier Z's. Water and dirt get between the inner and outer wheel arch panels causing rusting. Had a price of circa £1400 to sort it a couple of months ago which is better than the £4k quoted to replace the inner and outer panels. I've bought some rubber sealing strip from Amazon which I'm going to fit around the lip on both wheel arches along with some mastic sealant to provide a degree of protection.this is the rubber strip I settle on. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008FQ5BVY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Just to be clear in case Mr Plod (who I have great respect for) is reading this, these high speeds were on private roads...Yes

Would be much the same I expect, just I always select 2nd. So long as the flywheel is made to move and hopefully release the starter gear if it has got caught up. The more violent you can jog the flywheel the more chance it will release. The click you hear when trying to turn the engine over will be the starter solenoid relay pulling in to supply current to the starter motor.

Either the gear on the end of the starter motor which gets thrown into mesh with the fly wheel is damaged and sticking in mesh with the flywheel or the starter motor itself is duff. Have you tried putting the car in 2 nd gear and rocking it back and forwards to see if the starter motor gear wheel u meshes from the flywheel?

This may help...taken from the maintenance manual. If the car bump starts then the problem must lie within the following .. STARTING SYSTEM System Description M/T MODELS Power is supplied at all times: â— through 40A fusible link (letter M, located in the fuse and fusible link box) â— to ignition switch terminal 1 â— through 15A fuse (No.73, located in the IPDM E/R) â— to CPU of IPDM E/R. With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied: â— through 10A fuse (No.80, located in the IPDM E/R) â— to CPU of IPDM E/R â— through 10A fuse (No.71, located in the IPDM E/R) â— to clutch interlock switch terminal 1. When the clutch pedal is depressed, power is supplied â— through clutch interlock switch terminal 2 â— to IPDM E/R terminal 43. Ground is supplied: â— to IPDM E/ R terminals 14, 45 and 46 â— through body grounds E17, E43 and F152. Then starter relay is turn ON. With the ignition switch in the START position, IPDM E/R is energized and power is supplied: â— from ignition switch terminal 4 â— to IPDM E/R terminal 11 and â— through IPDM E/R terminal 4 â— to starter motor terminal 1. PFP:23300 The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and starter motor. The starter motor is grounded to the engine block. With power and ground supplied, cranking occurs and the engine starts.

Always Always get someone from the dealership to check your car over taking note of imperfections before you leave it. I've been caught out a couple of times so do this each time now. It's the only way to avoid confrontation afterwards.

Had 4 wheel alignment checked this morning and noticed a black 350 on the ramp ahead of mine, reg NC06 LPF. It had apparently been an accident damage car (although it looked in fair shape) and the new owner had brought it in for work on the instrument display (lost pixels and intermittent mph display) Points to note were stubby ariel, carbon fibre wrap on the two headlight washers, Zun Sport wire mesh grill over the standard plastic grill. Interior looked standard Just thought you might like to know it's still alive and running.

UPDATE:- Found that paint hardness table I mentioned earlier, it's located on the PolishedBliss site http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pdfs/painthardness.pdf

Mr ilogikal 1 you've come up trumps yet again. I'll take your word regarding the VXR (I can't remember where I found that paint hardness list now anyway). I think I'll train the wife to do the polishing then she can do the hard work while I drink more Merlot ha ha....sounds like a plan to me. Thanks for the chart as well, its very good of you to put so much effort in. Dicky

Good luck with that. Ah, this is a different matter - harder paint, y'see. Personally I'd step up a stage with the polish first - my choice would be Scholl S17+ but if you want to stick with Menz, 234 would be the one - on the tangerine pad still, if that doesn't get the results you're after, step up to the pad too, that being the Cyan Hydro Tech. Be warned though with that level of cut from either polish or pad, especially on black, you're likely going to have to do a 2 stage polish - heavier cut to remove the defects, then refine with a lighter cut combination to get the shine (which on harder paint would probably 85RE on the tangerine pad - a combination that would be moderate-to-heavy cut on soft paint.... confused yet? ). Just for reference, microfibre pads typically have considerably more cut than foam pads. Denim pads have more cut than microfibre pads. And Reyon pads will remove good paint from metal surprisingly quickly. CONFUSED, WHAT ME.......This is no harder than understanding the origin of the universe! By the way I came across a table of paint hardness and Vauxhall was under the heading of soft paint? (see below) I'm afraid I need to digest and research your last post because either my second glass of Merlot or your post has got my head spinning UK Paint Hardness Information (last updated 01/11/09) SOFT PAINT Alfa Romeo Daewoo Ferrari (< 2005) Fiat Honda Lexus Mazda Mitsubishi Nissan Suzuki Toyota Vauxhall (1998 >) INTERMEDIATE PAINT Aston Martin Bentley Citroen Ferrari (2005 >) Ford Jaguar Jeep Land Rover Lotus Maserati Peugeot Porsche (1998 >) Renault Rolls Royce Saab Seat Skoda Subaru (2001 >) Vauxhall (< 1998) Volvo Hard Paint Audi BMW Lamborghini Mercedes Benz Mini Porsche (< 1998) Subaru (< 2001) TVR Volkswagen

Cheers young man I appreciate your guidance. Apologies your right I've been using the 203S for light cutting along with the Tangerine pad. I've been selecting about 1/4 of the bonnet as my area, then having applied the polish I do 3 passes (a pass = Virtical polishing the area then horizontally polishing the same area) So I assume I could either do say 6 passes or more, or buy another suppliers medium cutting pad and polish (assuming their suitable for soft paint) for the slightly deeper scratches. As it happens this requirement isn't for my gunmetal car, which doesn't seem to show scratches to readily, but for my daughters friends car who has a black Vauxhall VXR which does.

1) I've been using the soft paint kit from "Polished Bliss" http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb-soft-paint-polishing-kit-cat1.html I believe it comes from "Lake Country" and is their Hydro Tech range. Unfortunately when using the main cutting pad ie Orange along with 85RE polish I can't get the scratches out I need to. Their not noticeable to the finger nail test so was wondering what the next highest cutting pad and polish to use. 2) Also is it the pad, the polish or both doing the cutting. All the different suppliers and their different pads and polishes makes it all a bit confusing.

Rear lower link bolt. Many thanks I'll look that up. Always well worth reporting safety related failures. Edit: Found it! ...now I can see how bad this could have been. Just as well you didn't put the handeling down to poor road surface

Not sure which nut you mean. Is "rear camber bolt" the description used in the manual or your own because I've looked at the rear suspension section of the manual (RSU) and the only camber associated bolt I can see mentioned is the adjustment bolt. Would that be it?

Yeah the guy did say the depth profile is a design feature of this performance tyre. It's just that I've gone through life with the simplistic view that all tyres have 8 to 9 mm tread depths so when faced with this profile my first thought was "I've been ripped" Bugger......wish I'd been born cleavour instead of devistatingly good looking!

Rang Bridgestone UK technical this morning and apparently this tread depth variation is a design feature of the Potenza tyres to allow for the removal of water. The guy mentioned that the outside of the tyre (the 6mm) is street legal down to Zero millimetre while 3/4 of the treat must be above the 1.6mm minimum depth as that's what the law permits, apparently the rear tyres will be similar. So the tyres are perfectly ok according to them. I put the same tyre on the car last time and they seem to have lasted well enough so hey ho here we go. I still feel a little cheated though so will investigate my next tyre choice which will be the pilot sports. Nearly went for them this time as there's not a huge difference in price but the tight penney pinching part of my brain won the argument on this occasion!