Dicky

Bought just before Xmas last year from a forum member but never fitted. 2x Fronts only - 225/45/18 Vredstein Wintrack Extreme winter tyres. Part worn but still with a healthy 6mm to 7mm. Retail at £120-£130 each. Will take £120 for the pair. Collection Only http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/hoggy57/media/Tyres%202/image.jpeg.html Price Drop......now £100 (the £20'will probably cover delivery charges)

This was disproved, due to the date on your piece of paper, which was not very clear, and what could be made out was something like 14/6/15 or 14/8/15, nowhere near November, or even October. Take clear photo's of the paper and the goods in question. I would also suggest posting the pictures individually, rather than a link to an album. Apologies, I didn't think or notice that, even though I posted the same ad a year or so ago. A senior moment I'm afraid! I'll try again later. Cheers Dicky

On Monday I believe, I submitted a post in the 350z parts for sale section entitled "Winter Tyres". Ive not seen or heard anything since. I may well have done something wrong, but then you may have received it and are busy just now. Can you confirm if you've rereceived it please. Regards Dicky

Thanks for that but I only have a small garage and need something low I can drive onto without the ramps skating away and then to wind them up. I noticed the eBay ones in your link and also that someone is selling the type I would like but there asking to much. I might make them an offer and see what happens.

Reasonably priced adjustable car ramps wanted, same type as CJ Autos supply if poss. http://www.cjautos.eu/v/vspfiles/photos/CR02-2.jpg

And I get in a sweat just changing the plugs!!! RESPECT

Well the brakes are spot on now, thanks to all of you for for your input. I took the bleeding method with me and explained to the Service Manager how it should be done, which appeared to be news to him and of course took all the credit when it succeeded. It's a bit frightening that the main dealer doesn't know how to bleed the brakes or at least where to get the required info from and even more frightening that they tell you they've road tested it when it's quite obvious they hadn't. Anyway all's that ends well...thanks again

Good info, cheers young man!

Ive only ever used two main dealers and both power bled the brakes. I wonder if this method introduces small micro air bubbles which later collect together into a larger bubble.? Does anyone know how the brake servo works and if there is some sort of manifold inside where air can get trapped.

I agree it seems to me that air is still in the system. I'm just trying to get some ammo in place in case I need to put up an argument in case they replace something that doesn't need changing.

I should have mentioned that following Kwick Fits attempts I was left with a slight problem. When I apply the brakes the pedel travel on the first push feels to travel about 20 mm before I get pressure. On the second press of the pedal is rock hard straight off. This main dealers seems to be suggesting that Kwick Fit may have damaged the brake servo in some way which has got worse following their bleeding attempt. Does this seem a fair comment?

Yep I know but I'd have thought the main dealer would know this as well. I will remind them though

Anyone had any problems with this. Had them bled by Kwick fit about 3yrs ago and after 3 or 4 attempts they were still spongy. Eventually got directions from my main dealer that they had to be power bled, Kwick Fit did this which did the trick. Had them bled by another main dealer again today following replacement of rear brake pipes. Driving home they felt really spongey and had to be pumped to get any breaking. Rang the garage who said it may be the master cylinder seals or the servo, even though the brakes were much better prior to bleeding. Anyone suffered similar problems?

Back brake pipes now sorted. They didn't replace the full run of pipe from each wheel as it would have meant the removal of lots of bits under the car including the fuel tank. Because of location of the pipes there was no deterioration other than at the pipe to flexi bracket in the wheel arch where Nissan had originally remove approx 2" of the plastic covering to make off the end connection. The garage put a joint in the pipe under the car, running copper pipe from that replacing the corroded piece. Total price £155. Things didn't go well though because while driving home the pedal was very very spongy and had to be pumped several years times to be able to brake. It's going back in on Tue but they seem to be suggesting the problem may be the brake cylinder or servo. Which I very much doubt as they were OK prior to the work

That's interesting. Just had the little bit of rear wheel arch rust cut out and repaired. The guy squirted loads of waxoyl between the panels which took a day or so to eventually stop dripping out. Didn't know it had to be heated first and assumed applying it while lying on your back under the car would have been quite challenging.

There's a company up here in Newcastle who charge something like £350 to to an under seal for you, which I suppose isn't bad when you consider the hassle there's going to be. Big for me problem though is will they take the care that I will, but I doubt it. I understand that wax oil runs all over and is therefore difficult to apply. I'll look into the Bilt Hamber Dynax stuff as well ilogickal1. I'll also follow the Cure Rust n paint route as well Piranah.

Looking to clean off all rust under the car, then coat with Hammerite under seal (I understand you can get it with waxoil in it) or other stuff if you've got any better suggestions. Also do you think "Cure Rust" is any good and worth using. Any advice welcome.

Don't think so because the guy said they allow something like 1hr/ side for the rears so I doubt if that would include the tank removal. If he doesn't you can come up to Newcastle to hold him while I hit him repeatedly!!!

BRICK YARD RED is the best I've seen on here so far. I'm a great believer that less is more. Bright coloured cars look as if your trying to hard to me. Just my opinion but enjoy what ever colour you settle on. Beauty is in they're of the beholder they say!

Rang a couple of main dealers and one decent independent for a ballpark figure to replace both rear brake pipes (not the flexes) with copper. Independant £350 Main 1 £200 Main 2 £145 Main dealer 2 said it wouldn't cost much more to replace the front as well, and was led me to believe it would be around £150. Booked in for Friday.

When I cleaned mine it was the former option. Mind you it was spotless after about 70k of motoring and didn't notice any change, however cleaning the throttle control valve did make a difference.

Well the rusts been cut out and new metal welded in and what a great job this guy has done. I can highly recommend him. For those in the North East the company name is Automotive Paintwork Solutions, his name is Marc Porrelli and his mobile is 07977908704. He's been doing body work since leaving school and ran his own business for over 10 yrs, Oh and he does all the work for the local Jaguar dealerships, so can't be bad. If I get this right he's cut out the rust, welded in new metal, ground this back and soldered over to seal the area, shaped then painted it. He's also treated the inside of the panels with wax oil and applied other sealants around the wheel arch. I'm more than pleased with the work, not a sign that anyone has touched it. Hope the photo bucket link works. http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/hoggy57/library/350Z%20Bodywork Edit: Can't understand this photo bucket site, either it or me is useless. Just tried the link and the pics are now out of order and have "ticks" in the picture windows. Hope you can see the good work

For the less hip amongst us, how do s the Blue tooth thingy ma jig connect and work with the Bose ?

PM'ed regarding gear lever surround

I like all of the painted efforts above, they all look professional. I would also like to retain the bubbles textured look if I spray. However my problem is that some of the bubbles at the front of the gear lever surround look like they've burst, showing a grey colour underneath. I concerned that if I just spray over the top that this damage will still be evident. I've also bought some textured wrap off eBay and may give that a go (link below), I need to make a decision here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1m-x-1-5m-Textured-Matte-Black-Vinyl-Wrap-Cars-Adhesive-Decal-Film-Bubble-Free-/141593071344?hash=item20f79acef0