Dicky

Anyone had any success trying to reduce road noise in the Z or is planning to try it?

If it were me I'd take the throttle body off and clean it before carrying out the calibrations. It's easy and made a huge difference to my car's performance afterward. Here's the procedure...to do the Pedal Dance Procedure iii) you must first do procedures I) and ii) i) Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Operation Procedure 1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch “ON†and wait at least 2 seconds. 3. Turn ignition switch “OFF†wait at least 10 seconds. 4. Turn ignition switch “ON†and wait at least 2 seconds. 5. Turn ignition switch “OFF†wait at least 10 seconds. ii) Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Operation Procedures 1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch is “ONâ€. 3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF†wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. iii) Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning) Conditions Prior to Calibration....(Taken from Infinity web site) Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment. Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle) Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100 C (158 - 212 F) Park/neutral position (PNP) switch: ON (Shifter in Park or Neutral) Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger) Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position) Vehicle speed: Stopped Transmission: Warmed-up (Drive vehicle for 10 minutes It is better to count the time accurately with a clock. The Calibration Procedure (THE PEDAL DANCE) 1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learningâ€. 2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learningâ€. 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Turn ignition switch “OFF†and wait at least 10 seconds. 5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON†and wait 3 seconds. 6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD) 7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON. 9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON. 10. Start engine and let it idle. 11. Wait 20 seconds. 12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications

Not to good with this sort of thing so hope this link works. Good luck with it.

Did you check the PCV as Alex suggested in page 2. There's a vid on YouTube showing how to check their operation. If that's not working you will get smoke

Forget the gold fish if it were me it would be their balls fried with a little onion and washed down with a nice bottle of Chianti. What's up with people these days, kids jumping on car roofs (if it was kids) know what their doing which can only make them the Fu-king mindless morons of the future. Could there be anyone around the above cars who might have security cameras? Wish I hadn't read this cos prat behaviour like this really pi--es me off, even if it ain't my car.

eh ?

Anybody want to buy a "Z" tax disc holder. Just thought I'd get in first cos there's gona be loads for sale, although I could use it as a table costa! Ha ha

Didn't know that Alex every case I've read concerned either 5 or 6. In some strange way that makes me feel better. The distorted tube never entered my mind either, but then I'm just an old sparky, not a mechanical wiz kid ha ha. Thanks for the input. It would be interesting to take the tube off and assess it. Need a bit of motivation not to mention letting the old back settle back into shape following the work on my car earlier this week but you've got me interested now!

It's annoying when (and here come the famous last words) it's seems like an easy problem to solve! The fact that only these two plugs are affected would seem to illuminate a lot of the possibilities. With regard to renewing the valve cover or repairing it seems a bit pointless if it's going to keep on happening, might just as well clean out the tube every now and then especially if it's a small leak. Maybe I'll design a electronic level detector, or maybe a kind of dipstick (let's face it if the current oil level dip stick with all its twists and turns can tell me the level in the sump, it can't be a quantum leap to get past the ignition coil ha ha

As far as my research has shown the problem only seems to affect cylinders 5 & 6, the two back of engine locations which I find strange. If that's right then it cant be down to the material used to produce the seals or the effects of the oil on the seals. Could it be higher temperatures at the back of the engine or misalignment. It's a bugger, because I may buy one new valve cover, do all the work only to find another leak develops a couple of weeks later (as I read happened to another guy) I may do like others have and just live with it and clean it out every now and then.

Thanks Chris, yep I've seen those videos but not sure I like the idea of doing it. Cutting the hole and fixing the new seals accurately looks to be a bit hitty miss to me and may give even more problems.

Changed plugs a couple of days ago and noticed oil in the spark plug tube of cylinder #5. This had been reported to me approx a year ago when the garage replaced my plugs. I had checked the oil leak some 4 or 5 months later and it was totally dry, so the leak must be small. Anyway, as you probably know, this is a common fault on cylinders # 5 & 6. Does anyone know why? Is it temperature related, an alignment problem, or other. I'm assuming it can't be a problem with the seal material as it only appears to occur on the latter cylinders.

Well all my spring work's now complete, changed oil,coolant,plugs, cleaned and oiled the air filter, new discs and pads all around and cleaned the throttle body. Many thanks to the to Ewen and Richard at Clark MotorSport for the bits and advice given. You may have read about my mishaps on the way in a previous post but it's all fine now, so me and my life saving "stocking filler" went for a blurt in the morning sunshine and even at 71K she feels spot on. The most reliable, most enjoyable, best looking car I've ever owned (kiss kiss cuddle cuddle) (for the car, not you lot!)

I've got that one to look forward to no doubt

You didn't kiss and hug the wife for buying it? WHAT! Urggggggh do I have to?

Thank you chaps but I have to admit to other misfortunes while doing my servicing the day before. First, having changed the coolant I went to start the car to warm it up and get the coolant recirculating when warning lights started popping up. I'd left the air intake up to the throttle controller off. Now my engine management lights on all the time. Then didn't I take off the radiator cap to check the level before it had cooled down and got a green coolant shower, very nice on a hot day. Ha ha ha the joys of diy

Decided to do a little 5 min job under the bonnet this morning, but before starting I quickly checked the oil level having changed it yesterday. I started the job, trying to get this brass coloured washer thingy into position, it pinged out of my hand and guess where it landed. Well done, you got it right first time. Yes it bounced once and went straight down the oil filler hole, the one Id forgotten to but back earlier. I didn't bother putting it back straight away because as we all know there's no way something like this can happen. Well after I got up off the garage floor I got out my torch and lookd down this deep dark hole but couldn't see a thing. Contemplating having to begin major surgery I took one more look down the hole and got a tiny reflection off the edge of this washer thingy. Dead lucky cos there was maybe only 0.000000001mm of it's edge showing. I didn't dare use a piece of wire or my extension grabber tool thingy cos I couldn't control them easily and may have pushed it out of sight. BUT wait there. The wife bought me one of those useless DIY mechanic tools as a stocking filler last Xmas. It had a magnet on the end of a car ariel with a led at the end for recovering your keys when you drop them down a drain (As if). I thought I'd binned it whien she wasn't looking but after stripping the house down to the floor boards I found it. But was the brass coloured thingy, brass or brass coloured steel????! Testing it on another of those thingy's I was relived to find it was not brass. Lowering it down the dark deep hole I heard a " CLICK" and yes I had it stuck to the end. As you know already, the wife is always right, and I couldn't stop myself kissing and hugging this wonderful and extremely useful proffessional mechanics tool, I mean Xmas prezzy. The best I've ever had. I'm now thinking of having it mounted, framed and hung on wall as a reminder to all mankind that if something bad can happen it bloody well will !

All done, thank God. The rear wheel Brembo mounting bolts are most awkward to get at and needing to use the socket extension doesn't help either, but managed. Not as much a pain as changing the spark plugs as it happens, but there sorted as well now. So that's new discs and pads all around fitted, oil and filter changed, coolent changed, K&N filter cleaned. Going to clean the throttle controller tomorrow and that's about it. Thanks again for everyone's help

Dead right young man. Car on the ramps tomorrow and since I'm on my 2nd Brown Ale,I'll murder it tomorrow ha ha

Thanks Alex, it just seems bloody tight and I'm scared I'll damage something. I've search the net and as you say the numbers apear to be right. More bottles of Newcastle Brown Ale required then before tomorrow

Yep same as me. Hope someone who's done the job can confirm for me

I'm loosing confidence in this manual, its for USA cars but I'd hoped it would still be relavent. The torque setting for the wheel nuts are quoted as 98.1 - 127 N·m ( 73 - 93 ft-lb) which sounds like your caliper torque setting

Can anyone please confirm for me that the Brembo calliper securing bolts (2 big ones, 19mm I think) are torqued to 152.1 - 154.9 N·m ( 113 - 114 ft - lb) as indicated in the Workshop Manual. It's seems mighty tight and I've been unable to reach the required setting due to length of my torque wrench and access probs with the car on low setting axel stands. If it's right I'll have to run it up the ramps tomorrow and try again. All discs and pads now changed, starting on the servicing tomorrow.........getting to old for this now me thinks.

Just came across a 2004 spec on the net for Brembo brakes (which does include the a Rotors) and the thickness ( new) is quoted as 1.18" which is 30mm. So I assume there much the same as the Pagid Rotors, so I think I'm going to take the replacement thickness to be 28.3 as stamped on my new Pagid rotors. Unless I here from someone who knows better

No idea. The car is a UK version with a brembo abrakes, but when they talk about Brembo brakes does that just apply to the Calipers or does it include the rotors as well?