Dicky

Fitted new rear drop links last week and just noticed I've lost my locking wheel nut socket. Think I must have left it on the last wheel I refitted and then driove off. Searched the street, drains, car, garage , everywhere but no luck. Anyone know how to get around this. Is it possible to get hold of a new one or are they unique to the locking wheel nut?

During the TB clean I noticed the intake to the plenum looked a little dirty as well so is there any benifit in cleaning this out as well other than just knowing its clean?

Well what was all the fuss about. T. B. cleaned, calibrations done and everything works, job done. I must have done something wrong. Watch this space.

Well done Alan hope mine goes as well!

Well since I couldn't wait any longer for a fellow TB explorer to answer I decided to just go for it as you can't successfully clean the area that really needs cleaning without moving the throttle plate. Found that the plate is spring loaded so gently pushed it out the way then cleaned and polished the area lying under the valve plate when it's closed. I've now reassembled everything and about to carry out the calibration procedures. The guys who do this every day must be laughing their c--k's off at my trepidation but it's a bit worrying for beginners who don't know what to expect or how to recover should something go tits up. Anyway here goes cos I'm going in! Now let me think , was it pedal to the floor 6 times first or was it switch on then off, kick the front tyre ,then pedal to the floor....buggar

Just removed it and started the clean. The valve plate is closed at the moment and I would like to move it a little to clean the point at which it closes. Two questions.... 1) If I move the valve plate manually out the way then move it back to closed position can I damage any internal gearing between the valve plate and the motor 2) in moving the valve plate am I going to get horrible problems when calibrating on completion All advice from veterans most welcome!

Cheers young man. All these computers and calibration procedures are bad enough but when different names are given to the same item......WELL I CAN DO WITHOUT IT. It's bad enough ordering a coffee these days what with all the different milk, coffee, sugar, and cup choices not to mention all the bloody flavourings you can have on top. You my have guessed I've reached that time in life when moaning becomes one of your only pleasures ha ha

Can someone confirm that the CEL (Check Engine Lamp) referred to in the forum calibration procedures and the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) referred to in the Workshop Manual procedures are in fact the same warning lamp. I copied these procedures off the forum a while back but notice that the CEL lamp is refered to while my copy of the Workshop Manual refers to a MIL lamp? Just want to be sure I'm looking at the right indicator. LIFES TO COMPLICATED

Oh that sounds like a plan! However if the Sh-- hits the fan I've got a fall back position!

All these calibration procedures do my head in. I come from an age when all you had to do was change your points, set the tappets and gap your spark plugs. Job done ha ha

Cheers young man í ½í±

Which option Zhorno 1) & 2) or just 1)?

Going to clean the throttle body. Having done that am I right thinking you then have to perform 1) "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" . 2) "Idle Air Volume Learning" . OR Are there other cals to do OR Is 1) above the only one thats necessary???

Defo give it a go but I'll need to read up on how to carry out the recovery actions ie throttle relearn and any others I may need. Hate doing these things as they always seem to go wrong, anyway Onward and downward is what I say!

More dosh for the stealers though. The cars 10 yrs old now and I've decided to do all the servicing I'm able to myself.

Cleaned the mass flow a couple of months ago so doubt it's that but thanks anyway

Don't you have to carry out calibration/ECU procedures following this cleaning?

Following a short run in the car I'm increasing finding that having turned the engine off for a short while then when Trying to start it again it fires up initially but fails to keep running and cuts out. The only way to be sure it continues to run is to give it a little bit of throttle. Any ideas what might be happening?

Just bought this one as it came out 2nd in an Auto Express group test http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001K9S52/ref=pe_385721_37038051_TE_3p_dp_1

FFFFFFF--- £500! Hope I didn't damage it because I did move it around a bit to see what it did. I packed some general purpose grease in the ball joints while I was on fitting my new modified drop links from Clark Motorsport. If that provides a signal to level the head lights does that mean the headlights are motorised to adjust position?

Excellent service once again. Bought modified drop links and Hawk pads. Pity I couldn't fit them as fast as there delivered. Only one complaint though, Ewan wouldn't give me 50% discount for being a pensioner no matter how much I begged ha ha

Oh that's a good one, I'd never have thought of that. As it happens I could see this assembly connect to this rubber bung thingy which was mounted and a metal bracket. I could also just about see a cable dropping down behind this metal bracket but couldn't see where it went. So you could be onto something. I'll take another look at my manual. Thanks

Busy replacing the rear drop links (stabiliser connecting rods) and noticed a difference between each side. On the nearside where the drop link attaches to the Stabiliser bar is a small bracket with a couple of small linkages which attach to a rubber bung type thingy. My manual doesn't show this arrangement and was wondering if any others who have struggled with this rotten little job may know what it's all about?

I'm no expert but if it sounds as though it's originating from the back end it's probably the two drop links chirping. It's a common problem on the Z and the fix seems to be to replace them. You can get modified drop links from Clark Motorsport which apparently last a lot longer. Hope it helps

Nice job Chris. I'm feeling like Band of Brothers reading your post, we've been through hell together ha ha. I've ordered some of those redesigned drop links from Clark Motorsport and will fit them instead. Just got to get the other side off in the morning so I'm borrowing next doors dog so I can kick F--- out of it when I'm finished ha ha