rtbiscuit

i had an ex from the caribbean and its where i built my love for chillis from. had some awesome spicy jamacian food that you just cant get in suffolk.

in germany the tyre life span is 3 years. again they get replaced and then sold over here. i replace mine at 3mm or 3 years which ever comes up first

there goes my pay rise in september

could the same not be said for different levels of tyre wear though which is completely unavoidable. the legal limit in the UK is asomething like 1.3-1.6 mm; its the legal limit not the target for change. in places like germany the limit is something like 3mm. form 3mm and down the effectiveness of the tyre to disperse water is not as good and so its grip is not as effective in the wet. anyway the point is whilst my front ones are wearing out and the back ones are fine then surely these would react the same way as having two different brands of tyres on front and back. grippy on the back and not so much on the front. regardless of tread depth your still running the same compound; compounds react differently in different conditions. running the same compound with less tread is still better than running to different tyres with different tread patterns and compounds; which both disperse water differently at different temperatures i dont believe however that people would go about replacing half worn tyres just to match them up every time you get unbalanced levels of tread. they won't but they should; our road laws are alot more lax than places like germany who have a higher minimum tread depth and who also don't repair tyres. if you get a puncture its usually a new tyre. hence the roaring trade in selling german part worns and repaired tyres. what is unacceptable for one country is a cheap alternative for another. not arguing with what you have said but i just dont believe its as scary a situation as you make out. (just my two pence worth). as long as you learn the tolerences of your car and drive to its limits all well and good till you get the one situation you cant control

well said Dan, a top right up and worded so much better than i ever could. this man knows his cars, his tyres and his race tracks, this is not the ramblings of a car geek but the wise words of someone who knows more than most.

from my reading of the forum a 20/20 spacer front and rear gives the advantage of spacing while still allowing the ability to drop with out ach rolling. on some vehicles a 25 spacer or above is fine until you lower it, and then you "may" require arch rolling. this info was from early reafing on the forum, some members have found that even with a 25 or 30 mm spacer they have been able to drop without the need to roll. personally i think the 25 rear 20 front gives a good finish to the car with rays. although other hardcore ballers would say you could go more aggressive still. at the end of the day the "perfect" stance is subjective and down to personal opinion.

talk about splitting hairs "Was Mine" does that help. must admit i don't miss the zed interior, it was the one major bug bear i had. your di-noc adventure certainly does help though, big improvement

heres mine JVC EXAD 810 headunit with a Pioneer AVIC F500BT multimedia unit and satnav in the top

sounds like a contaminant stuck in the paint is actually rusting, not the actual paint. rust is all but non existent on a zed. apparently places like train station car parks are notoriously bad for iron dust from the tracks. really bad for the paint. needs good paint care etc to keep the car looking good. the iron gets trapped in the paint and then thats what rusts.

actually i just remembered i used this green gel i got from B&Q i cant remember what it was called but that was great. It ate away the rust and left only fresh bare metal, and didn't harm paintwork, that was even better.

depends on what it is. you can get surface contaminants like iron dust in the paintwork that then rusts, i used to get little spots of it. remedy = clay bar, polish and wax if its actual surface rust, and this will only happen if the paint has been broken and bare metal visible then something like rustex applied to the surface will seal it, kill it then touch up paint on top (if its in a non visible place.)

hello again

cracking colour choice

Husky there are carbon fibre rear back boxes for some cars, the S2000 has one available for instance. but its usually easier to do with cars that have 2 seperate back boxes. usually things like buddy clubs as the cylinders are easy to replicate in CF.

M J S Services Holywells Road Ipswich, IP3 0DL Phone: 01473 212594 Fax: 01473 230637 www.mjsservices.co.uk good bunch of lads, used to build a lot of show cars and cars for mags. love their cars and love the zed. helpful and friendly. i used ot sue them for mot's as i had another place for body and mechanics.

the comment was aimed at the decision not the person. i've had a serious look at them and know that there method of fitment correction is shoddy to say the least. for instance cutting one of the tips at an angle so that it visually lines up. instead of designing it properly in the first place.

the buddy club isn't much more and you won't have to cut the cooling fins off to make it fit

slap your self

+1 I knackered mine on a speed hump last week - I will call them and see if I can get at same price - I will let you know Taddy i don't get that they sell crap that doesnt fit, they loose there trading rights, and yet people are still wanting to buy from them. more fool you sir; more fool you

Ha ha! Have you done that with the 'S' and discovered the 'secret compartment' yet?? of course

mate these look great on the car, helped you pic them up and those pictures dont show how wide those things are comapred to stock wheels.

glad to see sub standard gear removed from the forum,

just by swapping to SS makes a big difference, as they use less insulating material

first thing i do when i buy every car; is sit in the drivers seat with the manual and read it, and work out where everything is and what everything does. bit sad i suppose