Keith D

Spotless, very low mileage, I'd buy it if I were looking for a zed

Glad you sorted it

Just had to check the manual to remember myself! 1-3-5 on drivers side, 2-4-6 on passenger side (RHD). Yes the breather is on 2, PCV is on one. I'd still follow the same list: 1. Scope the trigger - it could be ECU fault but thinking about it, it might also be old brittle wiring - that's a 23 year old harness that's been disturbed. 2. If all okay, then leak down, looking for valve spring, bent valve etc 3. Then if still all okay, look for air leak around 6 runner, breather etc. Let us know how you get on, too many people drop in for an opinion and are never heard again! Means we don't all get a chance to learn

Think the fuel trim is a big clue, 25% is very high. My 370z is no more than 5%. I'd check with the scope as you plan. If that's fine I'd do a leak down test (cam lobe, spring, valve bent etc...) compression test doesn't always pick these up. Then I'd look for an air leak (plenum gasket runner 6 maybe). PCV valve is on bank 2 and connects near runner 6 -can you smoke test the PVC hole?

Sorry its E5 and E7 nor E6, and meant 72 not 70

Is this what you are looking for? Fuse 9, through the clutch interlock switch, pin 114 in BCM, but also t-off to the IPDM connector E6 pins 30/72 (green wire) should be 12v with clutch depressed 0v with clutch up

I've been very happy with mine, no problems at all. I use Spotify though and plays through Bose speakers. I bought it from Au Car Auto.

Would look cool with a set of painted valve covers, polished timing cover etc

Thats a lovely zed

Cheaper, but only one review and not great Upper Custom Intake Manifold Plenum For Nissan 370Z G37 Q50 VQ37VHR– Bull Boost Performance The plenum lengths will affect engine efficiency on an NA as well

I have long pondered one of these.... NISSAN 370Z G37 Q50 VQ37VHR BILLET R35 STYLE UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD | CNC INNOVATIONS

There are 4 from Facebook with tickets + plus 2 here +me, not too shabby

The start issue may or may not be related to the plug. The way start works is.... You press the start button and BCM checks brake pedal switch, key fob authentication, & clutch/gear position BCM sends an 'ok to start' to the IPDM IPDM energises the start control relay and the start relay So I'd work through that list starting with checking the brake pedal switch.

If its in the steering column area it could either be from the combination switch, or from the media. If you don't have one, download the service manual and check either BCM or AV sections, there will be a wiring diagram towards the back of the section and also a page showing the harness plugs with wire colours. Find a match. The steering lock will be in the PCS section. Its a balls ache but that's the only way I can think of to identify that plug.

According to the internet, 2012 - 2014 US cars still had the steering lock fitted, so it could be this issue, symptoms match I would genuinely test for that first Then I'd check the steering lock fuse and relay in the power distribution module (the box by the battery) Then I'd check the wiring diagram and pull some trim off and trace where that plug should be

Has it ever started and run since you've had it?

Sounds a bit like the infamous steering lock issue, YouTube it

The bung locations I believe are for different years and engines DE/Rev Up/HR. It will be a universal aftermarket cat. The OE cat has 2 substrates (the honeycombe filter bit) a HFC will have only one. The 'pre cat' sensor is for air fuel ratio, the 'post cat' monitors the cat efficiency. You'll likely want to get the post cat sensors disabled so they don't throw a fault, so it doesn't really matter which bung you use. Fit the sensors back to suit a tidy harness run.

Don't know about the nismo but the GT undertray is one piece, and I cant say it looks anything like that. But yes clearly something missing on that photo are there are 4 clips for screws.

I don't use underseal as it can dry and crack. I jet wash and then use Bilt Hamber Dynax.

DTI gauge will show it, you can get them for £20

The fact new discs and pads fixed it for a while, then it came back, suggests piston / slide pins might be the root cause. One pad isn't retracting, creating heat, warping the disc. I've never heard of pagid but copilot suggests they are not the best quality. Buy cheap buy twice is the old saying. When it comes to brakes and tyres I always buy the best I can afford, they're the things keeping you alive! Do you have a DTI gauge to check disc runout again? If that's okay then I'd lift the front, get a crowbar, and check every joint and every rubber on the front suspension for play.