Keith D

If I'm spending £50k it wouldn't be on a '400z' its on a used GTR I'd give the bloke low £30k's for it.

Getting my engines mixed up, although I'd still confirm it's overheating and then pressure test it. It might be as as simple as the cap. Although the bloke's not replied anyway.

I'd say you've not got a rusted bracket you have some remains 🤣 If nothing has fallen off, nothing is rattling, the car drives straight and safe.... pull off what's left, throw it in the bin, and carry on driving.

Those buggers look fit for the bin

How long is a piece of string! Could be engine oil, pump.... could be rad, fans... could be rad cap... water pump, pulley / pump drive... could be many things. VQs run hot, has this suddenly started or slowly got worse? Have you recently done any mods or jobs when this started? And silly question but have you checked it is actually overheating and not faulty sender etc? You didn't say if your heater gets hot, when you filled the system and burping it. You want it on full, and if it's not getting hot you have an air problem. Thermostats you can check in a boiling saucepan and digital thermometer. Probably if it were me and based on what you've done so far (and assuming the engine has oil) I'd stick a temp probe on to confirm it's overheating and not a sender / gauge fault, and if so loosen the drive belt and give the water pump pulley a wiggle, then stick a pressure gauge inline to test water pump impeller.

I've always put a dab of copper grease on near enough any fastener unless it's one that needs Loctite. It's maybe not necessary but its never caused me any problems and things always come undone easily.

Plunging used electric car prices costing fleet businesses 'hundreds of millions' | This is Money I'd heard depreciation horror stories but up to 80% depreciation... wow. You might as well throw your money down the toilet.

The MX5 is far the better roadster in very way, and at £60k the Cybster doesn't make any sense as a luxury tourer considering you could pick up an open top low milage Porsche, Aston Martin, Jaguar, Bentley, Mercedes for less.

Lets see. I drove a Cybster a while back, looks nice, handles like a 3 legged donkey.

Looks nice.... except it will have a heavy battery, weight 2+ tonnes, be built from tacky plastic and monkey metal, and corner like an oil tanker

Fit a 300 cell HFC. Book an MOT while you wait. Drive the car for half an hour before the time slot so the cat is nice and hot.

Sorry I meant have you checked it? With those you can often do a voltage and continuity check with a multimeter. Google will be your friend.

cam position sensor?

I've used Finishcare hi-temp paste wax on my wheels for donkeys years. As far as protection goes I've found nothing better.

I'm surprised the rear axle managed to stay attached! Under full load I could see the car parting ways! Keep the faith, many years ago (far too many to mention) I turned a rusty wreck of a capri into a concours winner. I'd quite like to start another rust bucket project to keep alongside my 370z

Do you mean you are looking for an aftermarket stand alone ECU? Like Link or Emerald?

You're stressing. The code that bought the MIL on should be in memory. Ecutek has a code reader (I've never tried it as I have a Topdon OBD2 scanner) so you should be able to confirm the reason.

Motorsport Auto - The Z Store - 370Z Emblems

It's not something I would bother telling insurance. Anyone ever asks... the car came with it and you thought it was OEM.

You mean this? Dyno's vary by type and even individual machine configuration / calibration, how well its been maintained, and operator error. 290 on a dyno jet might be 240 on a dyno dynamics, 300 on a dyno pack, or 230 on a superflow and so on. It's at best a guide. The only guaranteed data point is the manufacturers published hp start point when it left the factory. Anyway arguing hp numbers on a forum is as old as time, I know what I have and I'm happy with it for now 😁

Took the car to Horsham for a remap today. Very pleased with the result, my bum dyno says the car feels sharper and more on it, and the torque I felt it had lost from fitting the HFCs is back. Obviously the max hp figures are a bit meaningless, but have included below anyway. I am led to understand a stock 370z on a dyno dynamics is around 240 whp give or take; so the HFCs, Invidia and MegaFlow panel filters plus the tune have added about +40 hp over standard which would put it somewhere around 370-380 hp. Seems about right.

Fitted the Tesla style screen today, a quick but fun mod and glad to see the back of the atrocious OEM media

My seat dyno is saying it's lost a little torque but gained power at the top end and revs way more freely. With the remap I'm hoping to gain some torque back. I'll know next Thursday!

I bought the Invidia and the HFCs at the same time, fitted them, and found it loud. I dropped the standard cats back on but found it a bit meh, and put the HFCs back on again. If I could dial it back a couple of db that would be perfect, but its okay; mine is a toy and a project, I drive probably no more than 50 miles a month. If it were a daily driver I'd definitely keep the stock cats. I don't know where you are, but if you happen to be in the South West and want to listen to mine your welcome.

You won't need bumper vents, unless you want the look in which case fill your boots Personally I'm not convinced CAI are necessary unless you are getting very high under bonnet temps, but again if you want them do what makes you happy, it's your car. They do look good. I have Invidia Gemini and Torqen HFCs and the car is certainly loud, but loud pipes save lives so I consider I am doing a public service to road safety... 😂 I have remap booked for Thursday pm next week at Horsham to take advantage of the HFCs, if I had just stuck to cat back I probably wouldn't bother. Not sure what you mean stage 2 remap? A rolling road session should end with a map that suits your car in its current state of mod, whatever that is.