Keith D

Some bits for Nismo's..... Car Body Kits, Styling Parts & Accessories - Maxton Design UK Agree prices for everything have got stupid, I had a Burger King for the first time in years today and it cost £10 for a shitty burger and a dozen fries.

My 370 doesn't have a wear sensor. Not sure if any do? Wheel off, get your head into the wheel well, and look into the aperture on the outside of the caliper (where the pads are fitted and removed from) A torch will help. The anti rattle is partly in the way but you can see pad thickness. I guess you could also do it with a small mirror or even a phone camera with the wheel on? But it's only a couple of mins to remove wheel and then remove the pads, it's very simple, so I tend to remove, clean, inspect, and refit or replace pads on my cars annually. JMHO.

That factory wheel is still my favourite, looks awesome almost iconic

Considering there are ~6000 350/370s registered in the UK, its quite an inactive community isn't it

Maxton Design have a face-lift kit, front splitter looks different but sideskirts are similar. They are ABS though, and I like the idea of carbon wings / bonnet, which I think will look good off off pearl white, so a carbon lip kit would work better. Yes a full body kit is the other route, although it's way more work. I might need to mix and match.

That's partly my question really, which brand kits fit well and which to avoid. If I could I'd like to see some fitted, but Z owners down this way seem such a miserable lot there's little chance of that.

I'm toying with the idea of a carbon lip kit to personalise my 2105 370z a bit. Long term I'd like to go with a full body kit, coil overs, wheels & respray but that's a couple of years and many bucks down the line. I would appreciate any members opinions and experiences on fitting, quality, etc?

This might help if you have discounted the exhaust. But you describe it as Loud, are you sure its not a baffle or something internal?

Sorry but the nerdy bit first... the rattle is caused by the engine at a specific rpm creating a frequency which matches the natural frequency of the thing rattling. Something is loose somewhere on the car. If it were me I'd lift it up and get someone to sit in the car and do what you are doing in the video, whilst I try to track the sound with my ears. I'd look at the cat shields and the manifold shields first for loose / rusted / snapped bits of shield or missing bolts. Just had something similar on my dog car (a 20+ year old Toyota rav4 used to cart my wet/muddy/sandy dogs around) and it was the cat shield which had partially rusted inside on a round band piece which clamped to the exhaust pipe, you couldn't see it from the outside. Created a rattle at c1500 rpm when cold. JMO.

Dr Google suggests the original fit was Yokohama Advan, which is a softer sidewall tyre.

PAS problems are often the fluid condition or drive belt. I'd check both. Is the geometry & ride height stock?

I didn't go but from the facebook photos it looked like a decent turnout; I count 3 x 370zs, a 350z, G36, a pair of GTRs, an R32 in the mix. Anyone go?

Other than brakes and a cabin pollen filter, and ignoring the underbody walk around video to rack up charges, what else is there to regularly service? Having EV service intervals similar to ICE seems a rip off

Creative thinking 👍

It's JDM morning on Sunday at Cullompton, looks like it is dry and chilly. On their Facebook is has 200 or so interested and 40 going. Being kept up by a new puppy, so probably won't go unless anyone else is? Would never miss an opportunity to talk mechanical trombones

A colleague was complaining today about his EV main stealers service. £300 for a pollen filter change and the usual underside walk around video. The words that come to mind are greed, profiteering, fraud.

Hi and welcome (from Somerset)

The cat status is still on the history, it's not removed. I'm not a legal expert but I believe there is an obligation to declare the car was a cat N when you sell it. Personally I've always thought cat D/N was a bit unfair. Just a few pounds either way can determine when one car is repaired whilst another is forever cat N. Also think on an older / classic car it's all a bit academic. On a 3 year old car it matters.

It adds a 'condition inspected' to the HPI check, it will say '1 recorded' or similar, and include the name of the inspecting co and a reference number for the report. It doesn't change the history of the car though. Prospective buyers can obtain the report, and it will say something like 'previously recorded as cat N on condition register' and give the date of the inspection, inspector name etc.

LV, fully comp, >9 years NCD, protected NCD, 2000 miles per year, zero excess, £320 Next year will likely be at the point where I can't argue mods are like for like components and will need to start declaring them, so who knows

Personally I'd bite the bullet and get it remapped/fixed properly by someone who knows these cars well, there are several on the Pro Traders thread. Otherwise Ecutek remote/networked service seem to be popular in the US. All engines are not the same.

I'd guess the existing OE oil sender will power the cluster warning light, and also be an input for reduced power / limp home logic (the IPDM). Low risk approach you could always buy an oil filter sandwich plate and put the sender in that and blank off the other ports.

L1 for a 1/8 NPT is 0.1615". Multiply by 25.4 = 4.1. So you should be able to screw the sender in to a depth of 4.1 mm by hand. The pitch of 1/8 NPT is 0.03". So multiply by 25.4 = 0.762. 4. 1 / 0.762 = 5.3. So hand tight the sender should be engaged 5.3 pitches. If you have it use some engineers blue in the thread then hand tighten and remove and measure the witness marks.

Have you checked the thread size is right on the adaptor and sender? It might be the supplier has got stock mixed up? National Standard Taper Pipe Threads Size NPT Chart (figures are imperial, so multiple by 25.4) I've ordered an a pillar trim and some gauge housings I can fix-fill-trim to mount an oil pressure gauge and boost gauge, so interested in reading how you get on with this mod. What sender did you buy?