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Everything posted by Keith D
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Sounds like the car thinks one wheel is continually slipping. I'd stick a multimeter on the wheel speed sensors, first check they have battery voltage, then disconnect and check resistance across them. If its not the same left to right or resistance is zero, its a fault with the wheel speed sensor / wiring. If its not at battery voltage to begin with its a fault upstream, maybe in the ABS module.
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Loose interior trim or rear hatch maybe? If you think its suspension spray WD40 on shocks and rubbers and see if it stops, think you'll have to follow a process of elimination
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Is it squeaking or more like a clicking / thunk sound?
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Couple of pics Next will be a couple of panel filters and a remap The screw fixing the HFCs to the cross bracket is a bit long, I'll fit something shorter next time the car is in the air
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Finished fitting the Invidia and the Torqen HFCs today. One of the demon bolts was an utter &*!*. After several hours of swearing I ended up getting it cherry red with a torch then used an extractor socket. Not fun. The other one came out like a breeze. The invidia fits really nicely, tucks in over the w brace and tight around the v brace. It's now rather noisy.... 🤣
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I'd say avoid emptying the system unless you have too, anti lock brake modules can be right cow to bleed if you get an airlock. If I'm taking a hose or a pipe off I prefer to seal the upstream end with a small hydraulic pipe plug, or alternatively wedge the brake pedal down with a piece of wood between the seat and the pedal (the brake valve goes past the open position so fluid doesn't drain) I pressure bleed the system when all the work is done. IF you want to change the fluid you don't need to empty it, just pressure bleed it. Just changed my discs and pads, it's a doddle on the z. Just my two penny worth.
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Not that it matters, it's being replaced with an invidia gemini, but does anyone know the purpose of the two round rubber pads on the Y pipe of the stock exhaust? They look like mounts but there was nothing fitted there on my car, and looking through dozens of exhaust fitting videos on YT there isn't on any 370z
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Welcome. Where in Devon? And what do you need help with?
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Thanks Dave 👍
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Does anyone know where I can buy just the cap for a pressure bleeder to fit the 370z? I want to flush the brake fluid and my sealey bleeder has a screw cap type. I don't want to spend a lot of money on a full set I'll never use. I've found this but no clue if it will fit: BRAKE BLEEDER CAP FOR HYUNDAI MITSUBISHI NISSAN - CT5868 | eBay I've also found this. Brake Bleeder Cap 90 degrees Adaptor FITS SOME Hyundai Mitsubishi Nissan | eBay I've tried the plastic universal one before and it just bends and makes a brake fluid mess everywhere.
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Looks good. Does it retain the connection to the USB in the cubby?
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I did a search, sorry if this has been discussed before. I've seen in a few places online suggesting the auto transmission is torque limited to around 400 Nm although I can't find anything concrete or referenceable. There is also a video on youtube from the states where the workshop fitted an infiniti Q50/60 transmission to a boosted 370z because of this. Has anyone fitted the Z1 supercharger kit on an auto, and what if any mods are necessary? Before anyone asks I have an auto because I'm 6 foot 4 and very few performance cars are designed with people like me in mind and allow leg and knee room for operating a clutch!
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I have to say, out of all the cars I worked on the brakes for, the z is an absolute doddle. You could do a pad change in literally a few minutes a corner. Which is why I was surprised how poorly the previous owner / Nissan dealer had allowed mine to get. Park brake gunked up with chunks of crumbly dust literally falling off, same inside the calipers, grooves in the pads gunked up, bits of brake pad breaking away at the corners, 3 of the 4 discs worn under size and 1 with excess runout. Shocking really, the service record has a major service dealer stamp less than 3,000 miles ago.
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So what outcome are you looking for? Repair, sell, scrap? All 3 are easy (sorry if this sounds blunt)
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It all looks easily fixable to me, although if you get a garage to do it the labour will be high. At the rear it wants kidney brackets and the flimsy cross panel (or just chuck that away), and at the front the subframe (earlier post from Alex) Honestly a weekend at home on jack stands will do it. The rest of it looks like it just needs a jet wash down, wire brush, coat of rust convertor, and spray wax. If you do it yourself spray WD40 over every nut bolt and screw your touching at least twice over 24 hours before starting, and don't gun them off use a breaker bar gently to break the corrosion first. JMHO
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**TORQEN** 350z DE, HR and 370z V3 High Flow Cats - Now 300 Cells!
Keith D replied to Coz@TORQEN's topic in TORQEN
Can I ask, what's the difference between this.... 370z Z34 Invidia Gemini Cat-Back Exhaust System - TORQEN And this....? G37 370GT Invidia Gemini Rolled Stainless Steel Tip Cat-Back Exhaust System - Infiniti Q60 Coupe CV36 - TORQEN -
Gotta spend it before my wife gets any ideas like a new sofa... 🤣
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**TORQEN** 350z DE, HR and 370z V3 High Flow Cats - Now 300 Cells!
Keith D replied to Coz@TORQEN's topic in TORQEN
I plan to order a pair next month, along with an Invidia Gemini, unless of course you are still offering 5% discount for Oct ? Well my mum used to say don't ask you don't get 🤣 -
Axle click kit and DBA discs and pads from Torqen, and 5 litres of Motul 5.1 should keep me busy for the weekend 😁
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Nothing I care to share. My Mrs came along for a change, had my phone, doesn't know how to use it, and took a few including photos of gravel, her feet, the sky, and one of me eating 🤣
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The marks on the tensioner are ok. Personally though I would change a 10 year old belt, but then again I find doing work on cars fun and go out of my way to find things to fix, and therefore am by definition an idiot 🤣
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I have no experience, but it's also on my long list of maybe dos so interested in answers. My reason is wanting to drop the subframe to take care of any potential areas of future corrosion, so it's a sensible opportunity to either improve or be proactive and change whilst it's down. I quite liked the idea of the Z1 collar kit which I presume works with the standard bushes. Its also true though over time bushes break down so fitting OEM new on an older car can also make a huge difference.
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What have people found as the best wind back tool? I have a well used 30+ year old wind back kit but it won't fit opposed piston calipers it's for single piston floating calipers. Don't really want to use flat screwdriver wrapped in cloth, but there doesn't seem much available other than cheap and nasty ratchet things most Amazon reviews say are poor quality and fall apart.