Dave6188

What do you reckon then Alex slight toe on the rear, parallel on the front, maybe 1 degree of camber on the rear ??? Car is driven daily but quite often go out for a back road blast, don't do a lot of miles so tyre wear isn't really an issue if I do run extra camber on the rear.

Car is bog standard Alex not lowered or adjustable camber & toe arms, excuse my ignorance but I thought everything would be adjustable like it was on my MK3.5 MX5. Well I guess if nothing is really adjustable standard I'm stuck on stock settings then ? Or is there at least something that can be tweaked to give a bit more grip ?

My car is booked in for a full custom Geometry on Thursday, they are going back to standard Nissan settings, having fitted new whiteline compression arm bushes, two new ball joints, whiteline diff bushes and some Eibach spacers its pulling to the left. Question is I want maximum grip out of the car, its on stock suspension, same 4 tyres all round, do I get them to tweak anything to get so I get a bit more grip ? What setups have worked succesfully for people ? Cheers Dave

I just want to clarify that the instructions are incorrect in saying the smaller bush is top and larger bottom. Looking at the OEM bushes the thick larger bush is top and thinner smaller bush bottom. Has anyone else installed these before and found this issue ?

As per title, can traders please pm me prices including Vat & postage please. Cheers Dave

I have an HR with the Xtreme kit and braided/insulated clutch hose, in my opinion I think it gets a bit overhyped by people on the forum. I bought because pretty much all of the traders told me it would best suit my needs. Its good if your out on nice open country roads giving the car a blast. City driving really isn't the best which is what I personally do most of, chatters at 1.5k, again it claims minimal chatter but it gets irritating, clutch sometimes feels like its either on/off no inbetween smooth biting point and you have to give it quite a few revs to get going ! Overall it's nice to have peace of mind you have a solid, quality piece of kit that can take a hammering but the downside in my opinion is driveability. Revs up and down quicker due to the lightened flywheel which again is nice on a blast but not great in the city. I guess it comes down to what you are using the car for ! Thats my honest opinion.

Well I'm gonna throw caution to the wind and replace the idler pulley and go with the belt recommended by Clark Motorsport 7PK2053 then at least it will be nice and tight even after the belt stretches slightly.

Thanks for the response Alex, I spoke to Ewan at Clark Motorsport who said it should be a 7PK2053, the belt he recommends and the belt the garage fitted there is a difference of 8mm in length which could have caused the issue due to the belt being too long and not tensioned correctly. When I fitted the new belt I checked all of the pulleys for play and only thing I noticed was the ribbed idler pulley spun slightly slower than the others and showed a bit more resistance so for peace of mind I will change it if I can ever find one !

So last year when my car was being serviced the garage called to say the old auxiliary belt was cracked so could they fit a new one, of course I said yes. Just over a year down the line and roughly 5k miles later the belt is knackered and completely tangled itself around every pulley, I unravelled the mess which took a good 2hrs ! Ordered a new Gates belt from ICP which they said is a 7PK2060 which is correct for the car and fitted it no problem. The belt the garage fitted was a 7PK2061 could this have been why it frayed and tangled itself up in everything due to being the incorrect size ? Popped on the Gates website and it says the correct belt for the HR is a 7PK2056 ! Gates don't actually make a belt that size though. So I spoke to a few traders which are known on here who said go for a 7PK2053 ! What is the correct size belt please ? Garage are saying it's not their fault and can'tunderstand why it has happened. Any help appreciated.

Pm'd

Ah right fair enough, we have a press at work so I was thinking along the same lines as you, press out and glue new bearing in but I was a bit apprehensive because they look to be made of cast iron which could crack easily ! Don't suppose you know the part number for the ribbed pulley as that's the only one I'm after, how much roughly did it cost you ? You DE or HR ?

I'm in the same boat, idler pulley is making a faint squeak but I've came across several threads on American forums saying just press the bearing out and replace it with a new one. What method did you try to get the bearing out ? I can't see why circlips would be needed if it was molded to the pulley !

Yep I done it without.

Done this last night, drove the car this morning and it has worked at treat, drives so smooth now ! Even if I have to do it once a month it's worth it. I never had the same symptoms as you, just an inherent jerky ride but that's now gone ðŸ‘

What is the EVT relearn procedure ?

Pm'd Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

My ethos has always been shape before size, I would rather be smaller and in shape as apposed to being bigger and out of shape. Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

Nah, quite happy balance at the minute between size, weight & fitness. I know to get bigger I would have to diet and cut out a lot of junk food which I enjoy far, far too much hehe. Plus I would have to start using supplements which becomes complicated because I am allergic to cheese and bi-products of cheese such as Whey which is in almost every supplement 😭 Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

Only just clocked this thread, I've been training for years now, pretty much eat what I want when I want, I've never dieted. I'm 5ft 11" always been around the 12st mark and have fairly low body fat, waist is 28-30" depending where I buy from. A few pics. Train because I enjoy it but had a few injuries recently so the last month has been a poor effort. Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

Pretty much my favourite build on this forum, you have done all of the work yourself, all mods that have been done serve a purpose. Even after everything you have done the car will still be nice to drive daily without being too harsh and it will be s**t hot on the track aswell, what's not to like. Power output looks very good considering the car is still N/A plus it will be reliable as you haven't gone crazy. Perfect balance of performance and looks in my opinion, if you ever want to swap to a fairly stock HR give me a shout 😉 Awesome build thread.

If you class it as a track it would have to be the Isle Of Man TT course, nothing else like it in the world.

Yep because your not biased at all owning a DE, just read all your comments on this post, HR is a better car all round, it's the natural progression of a vehicle although you seem to think that Nissan have clearly gone backwards. When have you ever seen the HR with issues of burning oil ??? You will find this is the DE rev-up. Only negative to the HR is the oil gallery gasket issue. DE gearbox is like chocolate although you will probably disagree and say it's still better than the HR box ??? Like you have said the Internet is a great resource so use it next time before making yourself look silly.

Only been on a few tracks, Cadwell Park and Blyton Park, pretty much because they are both local. Blyton was good in my MX5 because it's more technical with short straights which suited that car down to a tee. Cadwell is the daddy in my opinion absolute awesome track, like a roller coaster, enjoyed every trackday I have done there. Off the car subject but I once done a day at Olivers Mount in Scarborough on bike and that was mental, soooo exhilarating knowing that if you come off your done for hehe, can't beat that buzz.

The 350z weighs approx 1500+kgs, looking at dyno figures on here you net on average 20-25bhp which is 12-15bhp at the wheels. Your really not gonna feel that. Definitely have better throttle response and smoother power band no doubt there. Put it this way, my bike weighs 160kgs, I gained 12bhp at the rear wheel after spending over 1.5k on mods, top end power felt fairly similar, mid range you could feel more pull due to the increase in torque, smoother power deliver and better throttle response. I didn't get on and think it was a rocket ship afterwards though, it felt ever so slightly quicker.

I would say a remap is completely pointless unless you own a turbo or supercharged car, anything N/A you will only notice a difference in throttle response. Although a lot on this forum seem to go mental and say it tranforms the car after gaining an extra 5bhp lol