Dave6188

Pop onto Z1 Motorsport online and you will see stats for what each VQ platform is capable of supercharged/turbocharged etc. DE nets 400-420bhp HR nets 500-550bhp and a VHR they recently put twin turbos on got 750bhp! All of the above were on stock internals aswell. Not sure on reliability though DE & HR figures above are apparently safe according to Z1 but unsure on the VHR output, seems to be a lot of power in a stock motor imo.

Not sure if you know but if the EBC pads are for Brembo calipers you can buy them off EBay for that price. Might be why they haven't sold buddy.

Seen melted pads on my bosses Mini Cooper S, car is heavily modified 240whp, brakes are stock slide calipers re-built by us, EBC grooved discs, braided lines and EBC Redstuff pads which had literally just melted and started crumbling away. Have since skimmed all of the discs and gone with EBC Yellowstuff pads as they take higher temperature before fading. Just to note only the fronts melted NOT the rears. Don't quote me on this but I'm sure the DS2500 has a lower temperature rating than EBC yellowstuff pads so it might be worth swapping.

I will have one of these if they are still available please Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

Just had a look and there is nowhere in the car to turn off the passenger side airbag, that's on a 57 plate HR, I have seen threads on the American forum where they have bypassed the airbag but there is NO chance I would take that gamble. So only choice is another car eventually, won't be for a good year maybe year and a half so I have plenty of time to enjoy the Z whilst I still can. Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

I will be in the same boat shortly I'm pretty sure it's illegal to have a car/baby seat in the Z aswell so baby won't be in it at all, sucks. My wife has a new Focus but refuses to drive my car because of the way other people act when you drive a Z, so if I have the baby at weekend when she is at work I'm screwed basically !!! Z will eventually have to go I reckon, will be a sad day. Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk

Japtech in Hull are extremely good. Depends how far away you are to be honest.

Trip A Trip B

So why has NO car gone round the iom tt quicker than a bike, its straights and corners? Jetpilot don't explain yourself to Davey_83, it's clearly falling on deaf ears and going round full circle, to state bikers are scared or lack skill to use full throttle in 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear is the most retarded thing I have ever come across on this forum to date, unbelievable, guy is deluded. Would love to know or see evidence of him in whatever vehicle it is beating said bike, was it a Honda C90 by any chance they only have 3 gears so probably did beat it because the rider would be too frightened to use full throttle.

Price aside ??? Everything has to do with price, the world revolves around money, otherwise I wouldn't be working live in a villa abroad and and drive a Zonda F lol like I previously stated, only way mere mortals like us are ever going to experience that kind of performance and be able to afford it is by buying a bike, end of.

No, not at all, S1000RR was released in 09 with full rider aids. Only point I was ever trying to make was that bikes do everything a car can do and more, they don't "just go fast in a straight line" as it has been put on this thread.

Oh and as for the comment you can't push motorbikes on the street to its full potential, I agree but I don't think you can push a car on the street to its full potential either. How on earth can you not push a bike "off the mark" explain ??? Modern bikes have rider aids to help push even closer to the limit eg traction control, anti wheelie, wet mode, abs. Even old bikes launch well without rider aids so your comment is invalid, again learn how to ride if this is the case. Tell me what was the last bike you rode ?

Your comparing what is an old bike with old technology against a new car with new technology, look at lap times for the S1000RR or the ZX10R for that matter against the Nismo GTR and the bikes beat the car. Look at it this way on the Topgear test track the S1000RR was only 1 second slower than the V8 Ariel Atom (which is powered by 2 bike engines) makes the bike quicker around that particular track than a Koenigsegg, Gumpert Apollo, Ferrari Enzo..... shall I carry on ? Unless your a millionaire and can afford to buy and run a supercar/hypercar which if your on this forum most probably isn't likely then a bike is the only other option to what I would class as extreme performance for very, very little money.

Honestly hate it when people say bikes are only quick in a straight line, I have both and can honestly say this is a bullshit comment to make, either that or you need to grow a set and learn how to ride !!! Nothing will come even close to a bike for the same amount of money in terms of braking, handling, speed, feedback and feel, well basically everything. Granted not great in winter but I know which I chose everytime out of the Z and my bike in summer. P.s. an S1000RR 0-186mph stock 11.8 seconds, timed with a data logger. If you wanna see how a fast car fares up against a bike in the real world read EVO Magazines test of the S1000RR vs the Bugatti Veyron.

I stand corrected then, I understand it's a different motor & ECU etc but never thought it would make that much of a difference, I would love to see back to back dynos on a stock 350z running 95ron then 99ron to actually see what gain/loss is made.

100% positive it will not lose this amount of power, Performance bikes magazine once tested a GSXR 1000 on standard fuel 95ron, BP Ultimate 97ron and Shell V Power 99ron, they emptied the tank completely between between testing on the dyno on the same day so conditions were no different the bike overall gained 1.7bhp using Shell V Power from standard fuel.

Good read, basically if your going to space your car do it equally on every corner eg. 20mm all round and get geometry done as it's throws it out due to the weight being shifted further out onto the wheels. If you space unequally it causes what the "tramline" effect people are on about. Decided I'm staying stock the car handles too sweet to mess with it.

This is only on the HR Olly, judging by your pic you own a DE, pressure was taken with an independent gauge from where the sender unit is and at hot idle showed 13psi compared to the car gauge which was showing 15psi.

Make your own up, cost me about £40 in total for full stainless bolts and Gold countersunk anodized washers and that was for roughly 150 bits in total, took an hour to measure thread pitch and length of each bolt, also on an HR looks a lot neater. Add me on FB and I will send you some pics before & after so you get an idea of the difference. Pmd you.

Correct Rocket_Rabbit but the manual states the minimum working pressures at hot idle & 2000rpm which are what you have stated, should be 28-30psi hot idle and 60 psi 2000rpm if the gaskets are good. It effects cam timing advance and makes the car feel sluggish if the gaskets are shot. I definitely noticed a difference before & after the gallery gaskets were swapped to the newer steel impregnated gaskets, my pressure with a gauge off the sender was 13psi and showed 15psi in the car at hot idle. The garage that done the work took photos of the whole process and to be honest there wasn't a lot of gasket left on both. Poor design by Nissan.

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/ Check the history and see if it all adds up, mileage, advisories etc.

Gallery gaskets - £800 Clutch, flywheel, slave - £1128 + labour If both of the above have not been done I would put money to one side just incase, mine had 54k with a full history and had to get both of the above done, luckily on warranty as I purchased from a dealer. Must be the two most common faults on the HR. Look at oil pressure when the car is fully upto temperature, it should be 28-30psi on hot idle. Clutch is a gamble, mine felt like there was no consistent biting point before the slave blew and contaminated the clutch friction plate only a few months after purchase. Car you're looking at seems to be very, very cheap for an HR, even with that kind of mileage.

Post a link so we can have a look at the ad.

Never really crossed my mind the fact that it will flick stones & crud up onto the paintwork, good point. Not 100% what to do, also read up that it's not advised for trackdays which does not inspire a lot of confidence !

I have been contemplating whether to buy 20mm & 25mm spacers for a while now, literally just for looks. The thing that puts me off is the fact it puts extra strain on certain components of the car and I can't help but notice a lot of people on the forum with knackered banana arms & wheel bearings etc. Can spacers be the culprit by putting extra load on these components? Does it not throw your geometry out or effect the handling of the car? Had 4 wheel laser alignment and geometry done on my car and don't really want to upset it as it handles nice as it is. Any info welcome, thanks.