Dave6188

There you go, proof enough? My car is auto and it has been tuned, I turned the Sprintbooster off when it was getting tuned so it wouldn't effect anything, came out and the car felt great but the box felt lazy still, turned the Sprintbooster back on and the box responsiveness is just ridiculous on the Sprintboosters auto setting, that coupled with the tune and it seriously sharpens up the car. Imagine doing roll or dig races and having a setting that can give 100% throttle at the first tiny touch of the pedal, gives you a split second advantage that makes a difference. On track you want control so switch it off. Daily driving mine is set mid way and it's a pleasure to drive, I daily my car in traffic, no jumpyness and Z feels lazy otherwise. I've taken it to a garage for work and even though my car has valet mode mapped in I still set the Sprintbooster up to restrict the throttle to 55% so it doesn't get abused. At night I set the 3 digit code on it to pedal lock the vehicle so if it gets broken into you get no power from the throttle whatsoever. Cost me £120 off this forum. No brainer in my opinion even if it's just for the security of your car.

In the first three gears on these cars the butterflies on the throttle bodies are limited to how fast they open even at full throttle they are restricted which is what gets removed when the car gets mapped. Throttle controller also gets rid of the same restriction in the first three gears so you get full power as apposed to progressive power waiting for the butterflies to open. PM Sprintbooster on Facebook, they were happy to explain it all to me.

+1 for the Sprintbooster, especially if you are auto makes the box so much more responsive, don't listen to people who say just put your foot down harder, simply doesn't work like that.

Tight fit but more than happy with mine, thanks again Richard.

If you are sticking with stock cats then the Cobra catback is a nice balance, not too loud but sounds lovely when you nail it, no drone at all either. The Invidia is very subtle, my friends both have one and with stock cats it gives a nice rumble, real depth to the tone but very quiet, sounds lovely with high flow cats.

Definitely makes a huge difference, just feels more modulated as opposed to a full on cut, launching off the line now is so much quicker, I set it to 110 on the oil temp gauge so mid way and it feeds the power in so nicely, digs and just goes.

Yes I have driven both, I reckon it's all down to personal preference and what you use the car for, I use my car for daily driving and road trips and find the auto box an absolute joy to live with even driving hard you can just flick it to manual mode and use either the paddles or gearknob for sequential shifts and you have full control. 7 speed means fuel economy is a bit better aswell, I visit family in Scotland now and again and average 37mpg over the 300 mile journey. Never really liked the manual box, long, clunky shifts and quite noisy aswell. CSC on them are notorious for failing, not the best gearbox and clutch mechanism in my opinion. Exhaust was £1100 but fitted by the previous owner. Filters were £100. Post maf tubes were £100. EcuTek map £600. RS Tuning in Leeds mapped the car on what they call the heartbreaker dyno, dyno dynamics dynos are well known for putting out low figures, didn't bother me in the slightest though, I just wanted the gap between the baseline figure and tuned figure to be as large as possible. Paul has a seriously good reputation aswell which counts for everything in my opinion. More power could have been had with high flow cats or de-cats but because it's my daily driver I don't want it to be stupidly loud or start sounding raspy so I stuck with the stock cats. Sounds beautiful as is so I'm happy.

I used the Xtreme clutch, flywheel and concentric slave cylinder which is uprated by the way, it was in my old Z, for daily driving I actually hated it, heavier pedal, clutch was hard to modulate, had to rev the tits off it to get it going from a stand or on hill starts, chatter started wearing on me at low rpms aswell. It was in the car nearly 3yrs and just before I got rid of the car I'm sure the CSC was starting to fail, if I launched the car hard I would get half a pedal back on the clutch like I did when the stock oem Nissan CSC started to fail and eventually blew. This is just my own personal experience and opinions.

So finally bit the bullet and took my 7AT 2015 370z in for an EcuTek remap, car has only done 17k miles. Mods are Cobra catback exhaust, K&N drop in filters and ISR post maf tubes, car was serviced 1 week before the map using Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5-30w fully synthetic with a genuine Nissan oil filter and magnetic Gold Plug. Map settings: 1. 99Ron 2. 99Ron + adjustable traction control 3. 97Ron 4. Valet Mode (limited to 3k revs) Engine goes into limp mode now if oil temp hits 140 degrees Celsius which is a nice feature. Top speed limiter and throttle restrictions are gone now. As you can see by the graph it gained 31bhp peak power and 28ftlb of torque, difference is night and day in terms of power throughout the entire rev range, car feels pretty savage now it's just so much quicker off the throttle. Adjustable traction control is so much better, instead of completely cutting power like the stock Nissan traction control it feels like it modulates the power so it puts more usable power onto the tarmac, all controlled and adjusted through the oil temperature gauge.

So I've made some progress with this, finally got a dry day so I decided to clean my car, whilst at it I grabbed cocktail sticks and some cotton buds and carefully peeled back the seal from the door surround trim to the roof. I wedged the cocktail stick in the tiny gap near the windscreen and then wedged the cotton bud in behind it, dragged them the full length of the seal and at the end what looked like dried up wax and a fair amount of grime/muck came out. Reapeated the process again and again until it was completely spotless. A few days of heavy rain later and no wet seatbelt or condensation in the car ! Nice easy fix, well worth a try for anyone having the same issue. I can only presume the dried up wax, grime/muck were holding the seal off the roof ever so slightly, enough to let water trickle in.

After extremely heavy downpours I pull my seatbelt out to pop it on and it's wet, the base of the floor is also wet behind the seat, this happens on both sides of the car. Windows are always properly closed, seatbelts are always fully retracted back in, no visible signs of leaks inside the car whatsoever. Looked at the door and window seals which are all in extremely good condition, if anything they are still like new ! Seals on the roof pillars are in very good condition aswell so I'm officially stumped. Any ideas anyone ? Seen a few threads on this when I Googled it and it seems to be quite common but nobody has ever posted as to why it happens or came up with a solution.

Calculator is showing 1% difference for rear and 1.3% difference for the front if I were to go with that.

What is the standard ratio difference ? I've run MPS4 on my old HR Z and thought they transformed the car but it did have really crap tyres on previously so the difference was huge, thought they felt a bit soft though. I would happily go from 245/40 R19 to 255/40 R19 and rear from 275/35 R19 to 285/35 R19 and run MPS4S if it wouldn't cause any issue's. It's only 10mm wider front and rear so I can't see it making a huge difference.

Just read the tyre test in Evo magazine, the P Zero was pitted up against the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 not the 4 S, test was done at the Pirelli test track ! Car used was a fwd Golf GTI. Makes me wonder if the test was influenced at all by the fact it was carried out at Pirelli's own test track and if the results would have been different with a rwd car with some decent grunt behind it. Read several reviews on the difference between the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 and 4S and most conclude there is only a small margin of difference between the two, the 4S stiffer construction gives more feedback but is a smidge harsher on road, track times were only 0.1 of a second difference in wet and dry and braking was only better by 0.3m. Will read up on the P Zero a bit more before making the choice. Any feedback from owners with the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S and P Zero would be welcome.

I'm completely open to suggestions, I don't read up much on what is best out there and by no means will probably find the limits of the tyre but it's nice to have the best of the best and most importantly something that inspires confidence when pushing what I would class as hard. I think the top few manufacturers will be extremely similar and for an average driver like myself that never goes on track I would never be able to tell the difference, main thing is feel for me, I want peace of mind when pushing that the rear isn't going to snap out, something predictable and gradual to let me know how far to push. Hope this makes sense !

So the 4S comes in 255/40 R19 would that be ok on the front ? Should I get a 285/35 R19 for the rear so both are 10mm wider for a tiny bit of extra grip ? Will this cause me any issues whatsoever ? Finally is the 4S much better than the 4 ?

They do the rears Dan but not the fronts.

I can get both tyres for the front but instead the stock size 40 wall they only come in 35 wall. I'm not 100% what difference it would actually make if any at all. I guess Nissan made them 40 wall for a reason aswell so I don't want to screw up the way the car handles/rides.

So I own a 2015 370z GT, stock sizes for tyres are front 245/40 R19, rear 275/35 R19, I have been looking at either Michelin Pilot Sport 4 or 4S, is there a lot of difference between the two ? they don't make a front to stock size either which is a pain. Car is daily driven to work and back in all conditions, fast road driving now and again and long road trips, what tyre would best suit those needs. What tyre size should I go with without straying to far from stock, more grip would be nice but I don't want to affect anything by not sticking to stock size, what do you guys suggest and what are you currently running in terms of tyres and sizes. Many thanks

Thanks Alex, would you change the plugs given the circumstances ?

I've just checked the Nissan service schedule and it says to change them at 90k miles or 72 months !

As per title can someone tell me the torque settings for OEM spark plugs please. Car has only covered 16k miles but it's off in for a re-map so I'm replacing plugs as a precaution, or should I even bother? Car is a 2015 plate. Many thanks.

Read the left of the graph, it's all flywheel horsepower not at the wheels, 329.2 would be a fair amount for a Z, achievable if you live in America with their fairy tale figures lol

Would love to see some pictures of how the car sits as this is the route I'm considering going down.

Would you take £120 delivered buddy ? I understand if you decline but if it doesn't sell for £140 the offer is always there. Many thanks David