Zod

Do this: 1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operation temperature. 2. Set shift lever in neutral position and confirm that following electrical or mechanical loads are not applied. – Headlamp switch is OFF – Air conditioner switch is OFF – Rear defogger switch is OFF – Steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, etc 3. Keep the engine speed between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm at 20 seconds. (Took me a few tries as the revs went over 2000) 4. Go for a drive Mine is still running smooth since I originally did it, just recalibrates the exhaust valve timing, no codes. May or may not be your issue but it's worth a try!

My car is a HR so not sure if this applies to previous engines. Exhaust Valve Timing Control Learning NBS00038 DESCRIPTION Exhaust Valve Timing Control Learning is an operation to learn the characteristic of exhaust valve timing con- trol magnet retarder by comparing the target angle of exhaust camshaft with the actual retarded angle of exhaust camshaft. It must be performed each time exhaust valve timing control magnet retarder is discon- nected or replaced, or ECM is replaced. OPERATION PROCEDURE With CONSULT-III 1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operation temperature. 2. Set shift lever in neutral position and confirm that following electrical or mechanical loads are not applied. – Headlamp switch is OFF – Air conditioner switch is OFF – Rear defogger switch is OFF – Steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, etc 3. Keep the engine speed between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm. 4. Select “EXH V/T CONTROL LEARN†in “WORK SUPPORT†mode with CONSULT-III. 5. Touch “START†and wait 20 seconds. 6. Make sure that “CMPLT†is displayed on CONSULT-III screen. Without CONSULT-III 1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operation temperature. 2. Set shift lever in neutral position and confirm that following electrical or mechanical loads are not applied. – Headlamp switch is OFF – Air conditioner switch is OFF – Rear defogger switch is OFF – Steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, etc 3. Keep the engine speed between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm at 20 seconds.

Apologies for reviving an old thread but I sorted this issue out yesterday and felt I should update. I put the Z back on the road this month for the summer and it still had these issues. I decided to run the EVT Relearn procedure again yesterday evening and it has completely resolved my issues. I must have done it wrong the first time. Hopefully it helps someone with similar issues!

Ah, thanks Mark. I'm guessing this problem surfaces due to tolerences/reference values changing as the engine ages? I'll be saving up for an Uprev soo

Thanks, no need to shout! haha Ok so an uprev cures it but I want to know the cause!

Ok thanks, so what exactly is the issue? Does an uprev fix the issue or compensate for it? Was planning on an uprev in the future but only after an exhaust upgrade. I don't think that's my issue, I just installed an Xtreme clutch and fly along with a low mileage gearbox. When I run without the EVT control the car is fine. I'd imagine it was probably the DMF in your case.

Guys, I've been having an issue with my HR since I got her back on the road. Car drives ok when cold. Then the Revs stumble while driving at 1100 RPM and again at 1850RPM once she is warmed up. Also once I get under 3000RPM while decelerating (no feet on brakes or throttle) the car starts dragging suddenly then about 2200RPM it decelerates normally again. This makes driving around town a total pain. What I've done so far: - All relearns for throttle position, pedal position, idle relearn and even EVT calibration. - Checked O2 Sensors - Cleaned both MAFs - Cleaned both throttle bodies - Examined fuel trim values for clues - Changed oil and filter 5w-30 fully synth - Read workshop manual extensively! I'm currently concentrating on the ECM and EVT and found that if I disconnect the two connectors for the EVT control then the car runs absolutely perfect. So thinking now that it is an issue with either the EVT or ECM or a different issue exasperated by these. I can see other people with similar issues have cured this with an Uprev map so maybe the ECM needs a reflash/update? Anyone experienced something similar or know what the cause is from my description? Is there a know TSB for this, cant seem to find one myself.. Thanks Keith

I installed the Xtreme clutch kit on my 07 HR a few weeks ago and I'm xtremely happy with it. There will be additional noise if you install anything other than the Nissan stock DMF, but for me, the performance increase far outweighs the negatives (and I'm fussy about noises from my car!). From my own experience, I'd recommend the Xtreme kit as it comes with an uprated CSC. Also replace the rubber pipe that runs down in front of the exhaust with a braided one.

Update I don't like dragging up old threads but I think it's worse when they're unresolved! I took the car off the road for winter and decided to take out the gearbox and have a look at the clutch and fly. It turned out that either the new pressure plate or flywheel was faulty/damaged with the result that the disc wasn't being clamped evenly causing the massive shaking when the clutch was engaged. This may have played a part in the multiple CSC failures I had in a short space of time. I have since installed an Xtreme clutch and fly with the uprated CSC and have to say it is absolutely fantastic! I am totally back in love with the car again and it drives great, even in stop start heavy traffic. Massive thanks to Ewen from Clarke Motorsport for supplying the kit, couldn't be happier!

Had similar symptoms in the missus' car, no overheating on idle but after a half hour drive the needle started creeping up. The thermostat was jammed closed, replaced and all was fine.

Picked up the 3 tonne ones at the weekend as I'm taking the gearbox out, thought they would be a bit taller.. Had to improvise with some strengthened patio slabs!

Thanks Ewen,

In an effort to fix a noisy bearing(s) and replace the CSC, I'm in the process of removing the gearbox. I've removed the propshaft already and wondering if the removal of the y pipe is necessary? Doesn't look like any section of the exhaust has ever been touched before and the garage has dropped gearbox twice already this year. Some DIY guides deem this necessary but from looking underneath it looks like I don't need to, anyone know for sure? Thanks Keith

Ah.. Cheers

Appreciate the help guys, I'll put the car off the road for a while and order the upgrade. Are they available locally (UK) or only in the states? (Zspeed/conceptz)