Zod

Do this: 1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operation temperature. 2. Set shift lever in neutral position and confirm that following electrical or mechanical loads are not applied. – Headlamp switch is OFF – Air conditioner switch is OFF – Rear defogger switch is OFF – Steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, etc 3. Keep the engine speed between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm at 20 seconds. (Took me a few tries as the revs went over 2000) 4. Go for a drive Mine is still running smooth since I originally did it, just recalibrates the exhaust valve timing, no codes. May or may not be your issue but it's worth a try!

My car is a HR so not sure if this applies to previous engines. Exhaust Valve Timing Control Learning NBS00038 DESCRIPTION Exhaust Valve Timing Control Learning is an operation to learn the characteristic of exhaust valve timing con- trol magnet retarder by comparing the target angle of exhaust camshaft with the actual retarded angle of exhaust camshaft. It must be performed each time exhaust valve timing control magnet retarder is discon- nected or replaced, or ECM is replaced. OPERATION PROCEDURE With CONSULT-III 1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operation temperature. 2. Set shift lever in neutral position and confirm that following electrical or mechanical loads are not applied. – Headlamp switch is OFF – Air conditioner switch is OFF – Rear defogger switch is OFF – Steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, etc 3. Keep the engine speed between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm. 4. Select “EXH V/T CONTROL LEARN†in “WORK SUPPORT†mode with CONSULT-III. 5. Touch “START†and wait 20 seconds. 6. Make sure that “CMPLT†is displayed on CONSULT-III screen. Without CONSULT-III 1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operation temperature. 2. Set shift lever in neutral position and confirm that following electrical or mechanical loads are not applied. – Headlamp switch is OFF – Air conditioner switch is OFF – Rear defogger switch is OFF – Steering wheel is in the straight-ahead position, etc 3. Keep the engine speed between 1,800 and 2,000 rpm at 20 seconds.

Apologies for reviving an old thread but I sorted this issue out yesterday and felt I should update. I put the Z back on the road this month for the summer and it still had these issues. I decided to run the EVT Relearn procedure again yesterday evening and it has completely resolved my issues. I must have done it wrong the first time. Hopefully it helps someone with similar issues!

Ah, thanks Mark. I'm guessing this problem surfaces due to tolerences/reference values changing as the engine ages? I'll be saving up for an Uprev soo

Thanks, no need to shout! haha Ok so an uprev cures it but I want to know the cause!

Ok thanks, so what exactly is the issue? Does an uprev fix the issue or compensate for it? Was planning on an uprev in the future but only after an exhaust upgrade. I don't think that's my issue, I just installed an Xtreme clutch and fly along with a low mileage gearbox. When I run without the EVT control the car is fine. I'd imagine it was probably the DMF in your case.

Guys, I've been having an issue with my HR since I got her back on the road. Car drives ok when cold. Then the Revs stumble while driving at 1100 RPM and again at 1850RPM once she is warmed up. Also once I get under 3000RPM while decelerating (no feet on brakes or throttle) the car starts dragging suddenly then about 2200RPM it decelerates normally again. This makes driving around town a total pain. What I've done so far: - All relearns for throttle position, pedal position, idle relearn and even EVT calibration. - Checked O2 Sensors - Cleaned both MAFs - Cleaned both throttle bodies - Examined fuel trim values for clues - Changed oil and filter 5w-30 fully synth - Read workshop manual extensively! I'm currently concentrating on the ECM and EVT and found that if I disconnect the two connectors for the EVT control then the car runs absolutely perfect. So thinking now that it is an issue with either the EVT or ECM or a different issue exasperated by these. I can see other people with similar issues have cured this with an Uprev map so maybe the ECM needs a reflash/update? Anyone experienced something similar or know what the cause is from my description? Is there a know TSB for this, cant seem to find one myself.. Thanks Keith

I installed the Xtreme clutch kit on my 07 HR a few weeks ago and I'm xtremely happy with it. There will be additional noise if you install anything other than the Nissan stock DMF, but for me, the performance increase far outweighs the negatives (and I'm fussy about noises from my car!). From my own experience, I'd recommend the Xtreme kit as it comes with an uprated CSC. Also replace the rubber pipe that runs down in front of the exhaust with a braided one.

Update I don't like dragging up old threads but I think it's worse when they're unresolved! I took the car off the road for winter and decided to take out the gearbox and have a look at the clutch and fly. It turned out that either the new pressure plate or flywheel was faulty/damaged with the result that the disc wasn't being clamped evenly causing the massive shaking when the clutch was engaged. This may have played a part in the multiple CSC failures I had in a short space of time. I have since installed an Xtreme clutch and fly with the uprated CSC and have to say it is absolutely fantastic! I am totally back in love with the car again and it drives great, even in stop start heavy traffic. Massive thanks to Ewen from Clarke Motorsport for supplying the kit, couldn't be happier!

Had similar symptoms in the missus' car, no overheating on idle but after a half hour drive the needle started creeping up. The thermostat was jammed closed, replaced and all was fine.

Picked up the 3 tonne ones at the weekend as I'm taking the gearbox out, thought they would be a bit taller.. Had to improvise with some strengthened patio slabs!

Thanks Ewen,

In an effort to fix a noisy bearing(s) and replace the CSC, I'm in the process of removing the gearbox. I've removed the propshaft already and wondering if the removal of the y pipe is necessary? Doesn't look like any section of the exhaust has ever been touched before and the garage has dropped gearbox twice already this year. Some DIY guides deem this necessary but from looking underneath it looks like I don't need to, anyone know for sure? Thanks Keith

Ah.. Cheers

Appreciate the help guys, I'll put the car off the road for a while and order the upgrade. Are they available locally (UK) or only in the states? (Zspeed/conceptz)

Check the clutch position sensor, if the pedal height was adjusted previously it might not be hitting the switch. The cruise control system would think the clutch is being pressed and won't activate. See here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/50287-how-to-adjust-clutch-pedal/

I am based in Dublin and there are not that many Z specialists around! I've seen this and wondered if this completely sorts the issue, I'd happily pay the money not to have this issue again. I'm undecided whether to persist with Nissan or take the hit on the updated csc and drop the box myself. I bought the clutch and fly package with the understanding that it would be a direct replacement for the existing nissan gear. I don't ride the clutch at all and always use the footrest. I was even more careful pulling off after it failed the first time. Thanks for the input guys, looks like I may just bite the bullet and get the upgraded csc and install myself. I had planned on getting the box off to get the input shaft bearing done in the near future, so why not do the csc.

Guys, I called into a nissan dealer earlier this year to price a new bumper and while I was there I was informed that there were two recalls outstanding on my car, BCM and CSC replacement. I knew the gearbox had to come out and asked if I supplied a clutch and flywheel could they fit it, no problem they said. I booked the car in during February this year. I supplied a competition clutch stage 2 and flywheel and picked up the car later that day. The clutch was quite grabby and the whole car shook badly when trying to pull off but I knew about the 500 mile bedding in and expected it would get better. It still isn't comfortable to drive but got a bit more tolerable. Fast forward to May and the clutch pedal started the whole dropping to the floor lark. Shortly after this I started losing clutch fluid and left the car back to Nissan. I waited to hear if this would be covered under the job warranty, and of course, the aftermarket clutch and fly were blamed first. Nissan gave the go ahead to replace the CSC again as it was p!ss!ng fluid. Got the car back and all was well. Now in the last week I'm getting the same symptoms and today I noticed a clutch fluid drop. I'm going to assume CSC again as I can't see any signs that the master cylinder is leaking. My questions are: What causes the CSC to fail in these cases? Could the clutch and fly be a contributing factor? What comeback should I have with the Nissan garage are they obliged to replace this again? Any Help and advice appreciated!

Duplicate post deleted.

I know it's been a while but I thought I would update this thread and put closure on the problem. I eventually tracked this issue down to a breather hose I had left disconnected when I changed the plugs. Car idles and drives perfect again!

Shame about the car, looked very well! Think I may have seen it in the flesh during the summer on the back roads between Blanch and Lucan. At least you're getting a HR soon though!

I have a code reader permanently connected via carpc but there are no other codes. I suppose I could try disconnecting both Mafs to see what happens. If the problem persists then it would suggest the issue lies elsewhere. Don't want to go cleaning something in case I damage it unnecessarily. Are the Mafs even in play at idle?

I had the intake off several weeks ago replacing the plugs but the problem manifested more recently. I also pulled a multiple cylinder misfire code last week that hasn't come back but thought this may be just down to my timing pulling off from the lights coinciding with the dip in idle.. It's the 28 second interval that has me stumped.. There is clearly a logic behind it. Really hope it's not an ecu issue!

Hi Guys, Having a weird issue with my HR. When idling at normal temperature at about 700-ish rpm, the revs drop (as if it's going to cut out!), then it revs over 1000 and settles back to 700. The weird part is that this happens nearly bang on every 28 seconds without fail. I've performed the idle reset + ecu reset etc with no joy. I've listened out / looked for vacuum leaks and I'm thinking of cleaning the MAF next. Any ideas what would cause this? Keith

Update: After tidying the code to query for a node id before each message I have managed to find messages originating from about 7 different nodes when I switch on the sidelights. I am going through each frame or sequence of frames and transmitting them on a loop and have somehow managed to switch on the xenons by continously looping one frame, however it also turns on the foglight symbol on the dash! At least I know my transmission format is being recognised now! Just hope I don't fry the bcm!