Stan

Sold STC

Well it's finally time to get rid, full transparency I just want it gone which is why the price is so low. I've owned this car for 6 years although 5 of that she has been SORNd and garaged due to life circumstances. I do take her out the garage and jump it fine every now and then to make sure it's all okay though. Always thought I'd get her back on the road but alas haven't got the time or money. She's a 56 plate and had done 48k miles as of the last MOT in 2017 but as it went SORN soon after I think the mileage is no more than 50k. Last MOT was a pass. Mods include full set of refurbed alloys (old set can be taken as well if required), wheel spacers, blue wheel nuts, Japspeed K4 exhaust (loud) with bumper tuck, popcharger, stubby aerial, LED bulbs all round inside and out, D1 throttle controller, OBDII bluetooth sender unit, core strut brace painted to match the car, slam panel, front switchback DRLs (these no longer work but still look good, maybe just needs a new sender unit), latest/last version of the sat nav DVD, new gear gaiter and knob. Had a new Mishimoto rad installed shortly before being garaged too. Most of the mods I outlined in my build thread here: Bad points: The front wings have some scratches on that I haven't tried to polish out, think it's just in the clearcoat, and the canvas hood has a couple of small holes that have been glued/patched. Doesn't leak as far as I'm aware but I hardly drove it in the wet. Asking 4k ovno with the proviso it will need to be trailered away as I simply want rid of it. As I said it will start up when jumped but doesn't hold a charge so can be driven onto a trailer if needed.

Hi John I'm looking to get rid of my revup roadster in blue, 56 plate, last MOT (pass) was Jan 2017 but it's been SORNd and in the garage since summer 2017. Starts up fine when jumped and gets driven around to keep things okay. Quite a few mods including exhaust, filter, new refurbished alloys, spacers, throttle controller etc, see my build page below. Had done 48k miles as of the MOT and was garaged shortly that so under 50k miles, few paint issues (scratches) and slight repaired tear in the hood but only want about £4k for it bearing in mind it will need to be trailered and a bit of work done to it.

I'm looking to get rid of my revup roadster in blue, 56 plate, last MOT (pass) was Jan 2017 but it's been SORNd and in the garage since summer 2017. Starts up fine when jumped and gets driven around to keep things okay.. Quite a few mods, see my build page. Done about 50k miles, few paint issues (scratches) and slight repaired tear in the hood but only want about 4.5K for it bearing in mind it will need to be trailered and a bit of work done to it.

Going to cut to the chase, just want to get rid off as easily as possible. Webuyanycar say £5.5k so if a forum member wants it for that ono they can have it, but also looking to see if I'm being stupid Info as per my build thread [url=https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107513-stans-roadster/]HERE[/url] Basically: 56 plate roadster, azure blue, built in sat nav etc., revup model so 296bhp Mileage about 50k I think, but it has been SORN without MOT for a couple of years now, but has been garaged since and started up occasionally. Mods include: Refurbed Rays with blue locking nuts, the old set of rays can go with the car if needed JWT Popcharger Stubby aerial Z badges all round 15/20mm spacers front/back Front brace (the one sold on here that goes between the slam panel and the normal strut brace) Aluminium slam panel Japspeed K4 exhaust (loud) Mishimoto rad Some blue engine detailing D1 spec controller hardwired in Latest version of the DVD for the sat nav Bumper tuck LED lights replacing all interior bulbs and sidelights Bad points: Small tear in the corner of the roof but doesn't let water in No MOT (obviously, but it passed fine before I garaged it) Battery is dead but I can jump it from my other car and it runs like that Some scratching on the drivers wing/bonnet that I can't seem to polish out, but isn't that noticeable. I replaced the bumper lights with DRLs but they have stopped working. Anyway, that's about it, let me know if you think I'm being stupid or if anyone wants to come trailer it away then by my guest

Yeah you can leave it in all the time. I have a OBD2 splitter so I have my bluetooth reader on it and the D1 controller as well. My D1 turns off with the car being turned off so figure the power must be off

I have a nextbase 212 in my daily, hardwired in to the fusebox (you can get piggyback fuse adaptors on ebay which enable you to plug it in to a fuse that is only live when the ignition is on, and then plug the fuse on top. The best bit about the nextbases now is that they have magnetic hooks on the mount, so you can slide the camera off the mount to take out at night without unplugging anything (and just buy a new mount/wires if you have another car so you can then move it to another car in seconds).

People say you get what you pay for... I've had a japspeed on for a year with no sign of any issues so far. As said, we all have different budgets and spunking over a grand on an exhaust is too much for me. I'd say go for it if you like the look of it

Easiest job to do after the stubby swap, 2 screws to undo, lift it up to the existing higher holes, bolt/cable tie in place, job's a good'un

You work at the garage, or you mean it's one you use for spraying? Would be good to get some more recommendations

Just out of interest how much did you pay for this? I had some bad customer service from them about 10 years ago regarding quotes but may give them a second chance if they matched your spoiler (mine is azure too)

Is it ok to tap into the interior light wiring for this mod?

I thought a dodgy thermostat only caused overheating, not underheating? However for the sake of £50 maybe I'll just get it done anyway

The garage did the replacement rad so not sure, however it existed before the rad change so maybe it is the thermostat?

Not sure how to check oil temps?

Bit of a wierd one but this has happened since I've owned the car. If I am in heavy traffic or just letting it idle on my drive, the engine will get to temp (i.e the needle reaches about 1/3 way up) and I will get hot air from the blowers, and it will idle around 800rpm which I assume is normal? If I start driving at any speed without hitting traffic, the needle will drop to almost the bottom line and I will get lukewarm air out of the blowers, and when stopping the idle will get up to about 1000rpm as if it doesn't realise the engine is hot and is trying to keep the revs higher. This even continued after I replaced the radiator with a mishimoto and had the coolant replaced. Any ideas? It doesn't bother me too much as I only use it as a warm day car anyway, but it'd be nice to get an answer.

I'm with you 350butcher, I find it wierd that so many people say they use a lot. I have a revup (notorious for using oil according to this forum) but I checked it when I got it, and didn't have to add anything to it after a year of ownership (admittedly only 4k miles, but still...) when it went in for a service. According to the dipstick it was still within the limits

HR actually produces 313bhp. The regular DE is 276bhp and DE revup is 296bhp. With the revup you still get a facelift interior/exterior and decent power and you should be fine with a 7k budget. If you go for a fairlady you may have to consider standard JDM things like speed limiter removal, fog light addition and FM stereo band expander.

Also with a revup most people recommend either a new lower plenum (I think Motordyne make it) or a lower plenum from a DE with a bit of a port/polish. That is the cheaper option 😠I read a plenum spacer on the revup doesn't really do much like it does on a DE

But if they are only £78 each set and you got sent 2 for the price of 1 due to the delivery issue... you will get £100 back by selling both? Or have I missed something 🤔

Can't see how they allow this but not phones... heard an advert the other day saying you can control your phone apps via the dash system in some van. So according to law you can't play on your phone but doing the same thing through your car is ok? 😕

You can also install a lower plenum from the pre-revup DE to give it a bit more as well (this is basically the motordyne lower plenum but without a full port and polish, which can be a DIY job if you want to do it)

Slight revival but I got the replacement 6PK1173 belt and had it fitted today, and surprise surprise it fitted perfectly. Looks like the seller was mis-informed in this instance Also took a chance to look at my engine and it's definitely revup going from the pic on page 1 Hopefully this will help anyone else with a revup and aux belt issues

This is what I have done on my past 2 cars, its easier to run the wires to a fusebox and hook up to a 12v supply when the ignition is on i.e. wipers etc. Then it comes on when you turn the car on and goes off when you turn it off ðŸ˜

Is the radio standard or not? If aftermarket some have the permanent 12v and ignition 12v wires the wrong way round which may be causing a draw