GMballistic

+1. Would absolutely love one of these. Wouldn't care if it was made by Lada providing it still sounded like the below video....

Cool - was a great car but became an endless money pit in the end... so plan to go the same way with a 350z haha Every cars a money pit but as long as you enjoy the ride it's all worth it.

Hey coldel a new member joined who's looking for a 350Z. His last car was an R33 that he modified a lot and I thought you may find his site interesting. Link: http://www.r33skylineproject.co.uk/

Gorgeous Skyline psmurphy and interesting site. I'll mention that to coldel on here as he's just begun his R33 ownership not long ago so may find it useful.

^^ What he said. ...and welcome aboard. Thread here; http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/66083-engine-differences/ Best to search using google. E.g. enter into google "350Z uk ..........." followed by what you're searching for.

^^ Cool ~ fingers crossed it arrives in time.

Good news then. Have you got that Gates belt from the US yet then? Only 10 days till D-day isn't it?

Bl**dy hell you've only had it a day or so Luke.

Great footage.

Welcome aboard.

Just thought I'd add to this thread now as today I used the Meguairs headlight restoration kit "plus" on my Zed. It's their new version of the kit which includes 4 grades of wet & dry on two handy little pads. Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MEGUIARS-ONE-STEP-HEADLIGHT-RESTORATION-KIT-BRAND-NEW-IN-STOCK-/160846872489?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 Firstly I used the kit without trying the sanding pads ~ this gave me a good finish but there was still bad fogging on the corners of my lights. So I manned up and used the sanding pads. It was worrying at first as obviously you are adding scratches at first when you use the pads. In fact after using the first grade of pad and wiping off the water you can see it totally hazes your entire light cover. I persevered with the sanding using one grade at a time, lots of water and following the instructions using one side to side, then the next up & down and so on. Once I had completed the sanding steps I then went back to using the mop and PlastX ~ this was when the magic happened and finally my headlights look "almost" as good as new again. Very happy with the results and wish I'd tried this in the first place rather than the other products I had tried which where useless.

May be worth trying R35LEE if you haven't already. Link: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/63996-2004-350z-breaking-all-parts/

£29,500!! Bl**dy hell, ..never realized they could be worth so much.

Leading me to believe I'm correct with the dipstick level marks being there to indicate oil levels when cold and there is as much oil in the sump as possible.

Makes no sense to me ~ every car I have ever owned (including a Mk3 Golf VR6) I have always checked the oil when cold and on flat ground. You're trying to access how much oil is in the engine after all so imo you need to leave it overnight for as much of the oil as possible to drain through back to the sump which is where you are reading the level from. If the engine has not been turned off long ago then there will still be oil trapped around the engine in galleries and on components. Giving you a less than true reading imo. isnt that the point if your checking it full and its ok then once it circulated drops below minimum and starves youve got an issue if you check it after its been turned over and oil pressure is built if its above the level you no its safe as it wont be below that level, every mechanic ive known when doing an oil change will top it up with oil check it start it for 20-30 seconds then check it to make sure during operations its not below the minimum level As far as I'm aware the marks on the dipsticks are for checking the level when the oil is cold. May differ between manufacturers but I've done it that way on every car I've owned since 1997 and never had a problem with my oil levels. My Honda EP3 wouldn't have gone into VTEC if the oil was too low and that always ran well. If you're happy doing it your way then keep doing it ~ I'm going to keep doing it from cold though thanks.

^^ Lol. Liked that one Will.

Makes no sense to me ~ every car I have ever owned (including a Mk3 Golf VR6) I have always checked the oil when cold and on flat ground. You're trying to assess how much oil is in the engine after all so imo you need to leave it overnight for as much of the oil as possible to drain through back to the sump which is where you are reading the level from. If the engine has not been turned off long ago then there will still be oil trapped around the engine in galleries and on components. Giving you a less than true reading imo. Edit: spelling doh (access = assess)

What you need to do imo is this; Leave the car on a flat level surface overnight. In the morning (when the oil is cold) pull the dipstick completely out and wipe it clean. Re-insert the dipstick fully into place and wait 5 seconds or so. Then slowly and carefully pull the dipstick completely out and check the level on the sides with the marks. It should be up to the top mark really. I always check my oil when cold and recommend you do the same.

Seriously looks superb Vlad. Very nice indeed.

Needs more gauges.

Just had to google it to see what it looks like.... Definitely good looking, ....and the cars not bad either.

I dunno? ...depends how it got like that. ;)

Happy Birthday all.

Wrong section. Welcome aboard (again).

You could always try zmanalex (or Clark Motorsport) on here for the standard bits and then just sell your old induction kit on here/or eBay.