RyanT

Selling my pair of LED rear lights, passengers side is perfect, the drivers side has a crack & chip which is all pictured. The chip in the lower corner: The crack, actually not very noticeable at all on the car! Previous owner used epoxy to keep the unit sealed / structurally strong. At 1-2 metres you wouldn't notice the defect when fitted on the car, plus it could no doubt improve it with a polish / further bit of TLC. Or just do what I did and fit it, then keep a saved search on eBay and bag yourself a replacement when one comes up cheap! These are a must for any pre 2006 Zed, they look so so amazing fitted! £150 (£50+ less than the cost of single unit from Nissan) Will post for £10, but prefer pickup from Bristol! Or I could meet near my work in Gloucester. Many thanks, Ryan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Essentially all of them are the same, originating from Alibaba and branded accordingly. Like: http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32480807293.html Etc Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I really really want access to this service!

Not read the rest of this thread but he's the pics from when I was having audio issues: Correct wiring order: From: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/105546-bose-radio-not-working-after-connector-came-apart/

I really enjoy the Smoking Tyre podcast, which is the guys from the youtube channel of the same name & DRIVE /TUNED.

Thinking of buying something like this? http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Ground-Isolator-3-5-Applications/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=pd_sim_e_2?tag=androidcentral00-20&m1k=vb_ac Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Evening all, I've got one of those wireless Bluetooth adaptors which I planned to use in conjunction with my aux input Bose mod to have wireless sound. Trouble is, where ever it's plugged in to charge through my usb adaptor in the cigarette lighter I get terrible feedback through the speakers (which scales with volume). However it's only an issue when it's on charge, when it's working off its battery it works perfectly. My girlfriend has one also which works perfectly in her car. Tried it in mine, feedback. Tried mine in hers, works as perfectly.... Any of you experienced anything similar? What can I do? Any wisdom appreciated! This is what I've got: iClever Himbox HB01 Bluetooth 4.0 Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars wit... http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00L4Y98QI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_udp_awd_pR7TwbM38TVPD She's got a similar offering from Aukey. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

***reserved for facepalm picture*** What a video game will not teach you is the physics that you will be exposed to. You will be concentrating on physical sensations rather than trying to remember the tracks. Take your time and learn by doing (and remember, if you mess up, it's 1000 Euro per section of armco) I do agree, but I did the same and just knowing which direction the track goes after a blind crest is invaluable.

To echo the above, I wouldn't say you need to do anything above just ensuring your car is in good mechanical order. I think if you are planning to drive the 'ring hard enough where you actually need something like an oil cooler - It's going to end in tears! Anyway, it's one of the best things I've ever done - Even when it's absolutely tipping it down!

Thanks again Richard for the help. The issue is now fixed, essentially the radio fuse in the fuse box near the battery was blown. Replaced this, still didn't work. Noticed that dials weren't lighting up / electric mirrors weren't working - So replaced the 'mirror' fuse in the interior fuse box and now all is working. Hurrah! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GSF car parts has a 40% offer code at the moment (FEB40), meaning you can get a LUK dual mass flywheel and Exedy clutch kit for £387.

Hi Rich, Just back out in the car now, nothing registering between pins 9 & 10! Edit: the only connectors I'm getting a voltage reading from now is between pin 8 (red blue) and the aerial connector. Pin 8 and the grey earth, pin 9 does nothing either.

Ok I'm almost at the stage where I want to set the car alight! I was removing my radio the other day, and one of the white connectors on the back came apart, meaning all the wires came loose. Not a problem you think? Just pop them back in? Well unfortunately not, I found a wiring diagram and did just that and the bloody thing won't turn on! Note, that this connector diagram is as though you are looking at the connector head on? (I confirmed this by looking at the diagram in relation to other connectors which hadn't fallen apart! I've checked all interior fuses here: All seem fine. Plus I've got the voltmeter out, and checked the wires on that connector and there's voltage (when using the aerial connector as an earth) where you'd expect. So it's definitely getting power. Plus the illumination works when you turn on the lights! On top of all this, I even connected the wires directly to the pins, just to make sure the block itself wasn't causing issue. Anyone that can help and get this thing working will earn some beer tokens from me! Cheers!

Gearbox is a known issue on the earlier cars, see below:

Evening gents, I've noticed we're getting more and more members of late, so thought it would be worth chopping a little video together going through the common issues any perspective buyers should be aware of! I'm sure I've left some things out, so please let me know and I'll add it in - Hopefully it'll help someone out. Cheers

My local Nissan charge £150 for a regular car (oil and filter) with free breakdown cover for a year. A 350Z? £300, becuase it requires 'master techs' to carry it out.

Dash cam got my price down 10% with Swift Cover.

Hi all, I'm changing my lockset and the replacement steering lock 'pin' doesn't pop out when you release the key. It's not seized or anything, everything moves freely, although to be honest the key actually feels rather loose in the ignition compared with my old lockset when you pull it out - related? Video showing the difference - Anyone seen anything similar? http://youtu.be/GzBMyjrg2FU Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Evening all, My spare key was recently stolen so I'm looking to change my entire lockset. The Z is tucked / locked away and safe which is the important thing. I've spoken to Nissan, they want £600 for the lock set, and a further £330 for fitting / coding! Our own Zmanalex is able to supply me with an ignition barrel, door lock & keys from a breaker - but I was wondering if any of you have done the same and had any luck getting it all coded / paired in with an independent auto locksmith? Was anything extra needed? Cheers all! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank-you. Regarding keeping the key in the car, I know it's mental. It's just because I happened to have a recent MOT and chucked in the spare key for them. Time to remove as much stuff as possible.

F**k I've just realised there was a spare key in there. What can I do now?! EDIT: Is there a main-fuse I can take out to make the car 'dead'?

Christ that's a really good point actually... Now I'm even more annoyed than before! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, Got to my Z a moment ago to see the boot light on and the boot ajar... Weird. Whether that was me leaving it open originally and an opportunist? I don't know, although it looks likely. I can't see how else it could have happened as there's no damage. Anyway I get in and see everything has been rifled through, luckily I don't keep anything of value in it. However, stupidly all of my documentation (V5, MOT sheets, Service history etc) were still in the car from from a recent MOT which they've taken. Now, I've been onto the DVLA and ordered a new V5, plus I've spoken to Nissan who said they should be able to re-do my service history book once my new V5 arrives, so fingers crossed that should be OK. Anything else you clever lot think I should be doing / need to do? Many thanks! Ryan

Which one do you regret selling the most?