ilogikal1

Just a bit of a price difference then. I'd be interested to see what the durability is like though, it would certainly be a bonus during winter not having to take the wheels off!

Out of interest, how much of the C5 did you use to do all 4 wheels? I could be tempted away from the Poorboys when it eventually runs out.

Considering it's all monitored by databases, I doubt hiding the car away will prevent you from being fined (first offence or otherwise). At best it'll prevent the car being clamped/towed/crushed (if left uninsured long-term), but instead increase the likelihood of a court prosecution with a four figure fine rather than the three figure fixed penalty.

A couple of layers of Poorboys will see a good few months of protection. I usually top it up every other month, long before it's actually needed it.

You've answered your own question; However, seeing as it's currently illegal anyway... ...it's entirely up to you whether you want to extend the risk of getting caught. Only if it's also declared SORN. If it's taxed, it must be insured regardless of where it's kept.

Get quotes from the companies on here. Then you're not insured.

Even during a hosepipe ban, two buckets of water would still be better anyway.

Any tips you have for 'proper' application? So to be clear you could apply a Wax over the sealant? Preparation is everything. Make sure the car is as clean as you can get it with the clay bar. There's then two/three steps to the Acrylic kit (paraphrased from here); Step 1 – Werkstat Prime Acrylic Deep cleans the paintwork after claying. Werkstat Prime Acrylic should be applied to freshly clayed paint. Only 3-4 pea-sized drops of product are required per panel, and these should be wiped in as firmly and evenly as possible to produce a film that should then be allowed to dry for up to 10 minutes. Once hazed over, this film should then be buffed off. Step 2- Werkstat Acrylic Jett Trigger The actual sealant part of the process. Lightly mist Werkstat Acrylic Jett Trigger over a single panel at a time and immediately wipe the panel down to spread a thin, even film of product. Then refold your microfibre and buff the panel down carefully to fully remove the film. I'd recommend between two and five coats of Trigger, the more you apply the better the durability and the deeper the shine. Step 3 – Werkstat Acrylic Glos Effectively a QD with a little bit of added LSP, so not an essential step but I'd recommend it anyway as it gives a great finish. Lightly mist a microfibre, wipe over a single panel at a time to spread a thin, even film of product. Refold the microfibre and buff. Prime allows cleans the paintwork fully to allow the Trigger to bond fully, so if you get this bit right your protection should last a couple of months. It's best to use the Glos after washes to top up the protection - I'd use this instead of a wax if you opt for the Acrylic kit, a wax just won't bond to this so you'll end up literally washing it away. It depends which sealant you opt for regarding the use of a wax as well. Poorboys EX-P, for example, can be used with a wax on top to give both the finish of a wax and the beading - EX-P tends to sheet water rather than bead, a wax on top of it will give you both the beading and the finish that the wax offers as well as the protection of the sealant underneath. Just for clarification, yes it's wax over (certain) sealant and a similar preparation routine is required to get similar durability out of EX-P as the Acrylic kit - i.e. wash, clay, prime (I've trialled Dodo Juice Prime Lime for the EX-P), sealant, optional wax.

Yes, use this, it'll make subsequent cleaning so much easier. For winter, personally, I prefer to use a sealant rather than a wax (which I use over the summer months) purely due to the durability. Jeffs Werkstat Acrylic works very well and will easily last a couple of months if applied correctly, but this time I've opted for Poorboys EX-P to see how that lasts. With the latter particularly, you can top up with wax too if you like.

Yes, it says; high pressure gas contained do not take apart, puncture, apply heat or fire.

Try some of this, if that on its own doesn't shift it try some of this. Failing that, a lot of APC might shift it before using a clay bar.

Supagard is essentially just a sealant, so claying (or anything abrasive for that matter) will remove it - especially if it's been poorly applied in the first place... assuming it's been not washed away already. Supagard is guaranteed for 3 years so take it back to the dealer if you're not happy.

Timely; http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=26717 As above, personally I'd be collating the documentation to show the true history of the car rather than amending the clocks at all. If a perspective buyer were cynical they may assume you're trying to hide something should they discover that the clocks have been fiddled with, even though you're not.

If you're going to store it away in the winter, trade it in for a roadster and just leave the roof down when you put it in the garage. Job, jobbed.

I've also just realised, Polished Bliss' latest offer is due "early next week", there's no indication of what will included but if you've not already bought some it might be worth holding off for a day or two.

Allow me to be the first;

The 1 litre works out cheaper from here; http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/wolfs-chemicals-decon-gel-cat4.html (after delivery is added, that's free from Polished Bliss). They don't do the 500ml though. I also use this and it is indeed epic stuff, and not limited to use on just the wheels either.

No problem.

Just been out to check mine for you, the window lock is the only one which doesn't light up on mine.

Oh I know what you meant. What I failed to say in my post (d'oh!) was that most of those who recommend a specific lube, just so happen to produce that product. My point being that you often don't have to use that product as lube and can use much cheaper alternatives but BH being the only one that I know who recommend using just water. I also know of at least that recommend using their own lube which doesn't double up as a secondary product (like a QD does) which is what I meant by "special lube", but there aren't many of those. These being the most expensive to actually use regularly.

Very few actually require a "special lube". Most recommend using a QD as a lube however you can use a suitably diluted car shampoo, for example, with most (if not all - certainly for all those that I have used) but to my knowledge it's only BH that suggests using just water with their bars.

Do we have figures for this? Would be nice to have, certainly could do well to back up a claim. Not got a link to hand but Humberside Police claim (from memory) that one in four who don't attend a course re-offend within three years compared to one in twelve from those who do. North Lincs say, here; The rest of Lincs says, here; And Chief Inspector Darren Downs of the Roads Policing Section is quoted, here, as stating; There's plenty more to be found via Google as Chesterfield stated too. As chance would have it, my insurance (currently with Admiral) is due for renewal. I will not be renewing with Admiral though regardless of their best quote.

The bit that bothers me about the quote from Admiral's spokes person is; The difference between could and are is a fairly major leap to make. Especially when, as previously alluded to, attendees of speed awareness courses are statistically less likely to speed again than those who don't.

Are you aware of just how little profit a garage makes from the petrol? It will generally cost more to fix a single pump than they'll lose in revenue over a month.