evilscorp

Welcome back I thought you had a big garage already with roof space and all?

Well done, looking and sounding fantastic

Problem solved hopefully, old central heating oil tank out the back of my dads is 1-2mm thick steel and needs cutting up for disposal so will kill two birds just hope my cheap ass hole saws can cut through it to give me a large enough washer to fit round the lip of the bush (would have used the hole saw but only have 32 and 38mm sizes so will need to do a bit of filing to get it to 35.2mm. Then I should be able to use my large socket over the steel washer. Who said drinking wine on a school day was a bad idea!

Another busy half day getting much better with the saw Started pushing out the bushes for the spring buckets, only to find the new whiteline ones have thicker rubber/plastic innards so the metal sleeve is smaller and I have nothing that fits it Chapped up the lip on the diff bushings and started cutting it off so I can try pressing them out rather than sawing and chiseling them out, sadly ran out of time (missus got home ) Little bit of paint and they are now ready to receive their new bushes the middle diff bush is in the freezer so it should hopefully slide in without too much fuss, probably still have to use the press to get it in though. Any tips on what to use for the spring mount bushes? the inner rubber is 35.2mm wide and has a lip of <1mm(if i remember correct) and I have an old inner diff cylinder that fits the other whiteline bushes snug but doesn't with these, reluctant to file it down so it becomes baw hair thick but fits over this bush As always cheers for wasting your time reading this plonkers ramblings.

It has something to do with a previous item I bought from Torqen

Once its painted and in place otherwise its not that impressive, just hard to get.

Cheers guys for the item not easy to get.

Back from being welded Spent the next few hours grinding and sanding Got it to this stage and happy with it, could probably get it flush but I have tiny nails and can barely feel the start of the weld so happy it wont ruin the new bushes, lesson learnt, go easy with power tools Also a box arrived thanks to Torqen

Very cool! If you don't mind me asking what machine shop did you use and did the bore out the block with a torque plate?

Why not just measure each journal and big end then order some ACL bearings to suit the desired gap? Slight polish of the crank if needed to get them all even. Then plasti gauge to check its all good.

Dropped the subframe off at an engineering shop, deals with high end stuff. But I was a bit scared when they said it depends on the alu used as normally its a cheap alloy and will just blow straight through on car parts He is going to make the groove smoother and a bit wider so it is filled all the way through, needless to say I asked them to test on a less structurally important area first. All going well the MD may drop it off at my home tonight as he lives down my way. If not it wont be till monday and after the staggdo to pick it up. Fingers, toes and everything crossed. Part of me knows it would have been fine to use and I may now ruin the thing just because I want it perfect

As mentioned on the first page, a diy guide of what not to do, probably. Only way to learn is make mistakes, shame I seem to want to try them all, lol.

Also gave myself a fright when burning the diff bushes as one was filled with oil same as the big one on the subframe, seemed strange as they looked similar until it went pop! What else can I burn.....

looks like a 6 series from the back the rest is

all was going well, new saw done the trick. last sleeve to remove, so I go and put a nice 3mm deep 30mm long cut in a weak point in the arm Not happy as I now have to find an aluminium welder to fix it. @~##*

Having to hold off building my new one. . . as the car is immobile stuck in the old one =/ hope to get my big play pen built in July also gives me a deadline to get the car back together. Liking the ideas as at the moment all I know is it will be 5m wide by 8.7m long with eves 2.4m high. The rest is all pooling in the back of my head so keep this thread going!

Sounds like there is a big boat we are all stuck on =)

Clean. Nice looking car glwts. =)

I guess not if you read his other posts =/

Buying myself an reciprocating saw spent hours with a hacksaw cutting out the subframe bush sleeves and only did one Fed up so quit and moved onto the next job till the saw turns up. I found that the inner metal part of the old subframe bushes is the perfect thickness and diameter for pushing in the new bushes without pressing on the rubber/poly, so saves ruining a socket. Just needed a wee file/clean up after the burning it went through. Had tried previously to remove the ring gear bolts and the bearings from the old diff but they are SOLID and I don't have a work bench. A little trip to a neighbour to find out if he is coming to the evening wedding party and if he would like the bus transport that I will be providing.... (the buttering up) ... then I happened to ask if he had a vice one his workbench and if I could use it The bearings wouldn't budge. The bolts holding the ring gear eventually came off after having him hold the diff in place with a 19mm long socket stuck in one of the side holes and chewing up a bunch of wood to get it tight enough in the vice to stop it launching out the dam thing every time I touched the breaker bar. A while later an a small tap from the other new tool (mallet from xs shopping omg, what a find! that place has everything sooo cheap!!) and hey presto the ring gear is off. Just waiting on new bolts... and now bearings from Ewen, at Clarkmotor sport and the end is looking visible. Next steps are; 1. rebuild the new diff (probably have to pester the neighbour for the vice again to torque those bolts) 2. saw out the old subframe bushes and replace with new. 3. spray subframe. 4. reinstall subframe, diff and hubs. 5. crack driveshaft nuts and remove hubs. 6. press out and change all bushes in hubs. 7. finally reassemble the rest of the rear. 8. go for a drive then return to see whats wrong and start on the bodywork

V3Ci ?? thats a new blower from vortech then, 100000hp I bet. Shame its so fugly

Grooves and holes reduce surface area so for better emergency braking oem probably wins but if your on and off them constant the muck and dust will get swept away better with grooves and holes cool the center of a red hot pad. For day to day car I would stick to oem.

The shot blasting gives the metal a rough texture so kept the old shells in, so I wouldn't need to polish them to fit the new ones. Powder coating would have been nice but cost too much and they said they were busy and would have been an extra couple of weeks to get that done. It was more spur of the moment test as I realized my W brace would have been a prime candidate for blasting also... shame I only just kicked it over tonight at the back of the garage

Having a play with gopro studio for first proper time, Michael Bay watch out

Day off, so will try and get a few things done. Sprayed the kidney arms a nice shade of red primer along with the fuel tank sheild, still need to do the subframe but will wait till ive finished removing those pesky bushes. Chapped up the lip on the bushes and cut them off with a hacksaw so I could have somewhere to press against on the arm, This was not fun, very hard to get the lines and angles perfect especially with the extension rod thing that only has a small flat on top, the rest is curved so expected it to fire out at me Initially started the pushes into some brand new 34mm sockets.... to find it just catches the inside need either 35mm or 36mm to be able to push all the way through, but the handy plates that came with the press were fine once it was started. I have made a boob with my purchase though. I ordered whiteline bushes thinking it will be a similar design to superpro i.e. two halves and a metal sleeve in the center but.. they are like the oem items (outer shelled also) so will not be as easy to fit also from looking at them they do not have any lips or directional indications on them, the website is poor and doesn't show you much info. Not impressed. I will however open the packet and get the micrometer out for a good inspection/comparison before fitting them. Hopefully an over night stay in the freezer should help them slide in easier.