s1xtyn1n3

agreed doesn't sound like it's worth the grief it's causing and will most likely cause you

sell the wheels and buy some oem's - a set with rubber shouldn't cost more than £200 really. Either that or put your 20's up for trade here. I'm sure someone with stocks might be interested in swapping with you and throwing in some cash

I've noticed some occasional slowness spikes. They don't seem to last long, but I have noticed the google bot on here more than usual so yeah, perhaps thats it (or Sarnie hitting 20k )

you'll need to take it to a local inspection point and they'll take a look at it there. I'm not sure how many there are, but when I was playing around with it, it said there was one in norwich (only a couple of miles away from me) so I'm guessing there should be one near you. As long as you've been honest about the quality of the car, they should offer you something close to the value the site said, but don't forget they have an admin fee which will be about £75 if you decide to go ahead. It should be a relatively quick and easy sale though if you can't be bothered with canvasers or are worried the mods will put off buyers

all good advice i'll be taking a crack at mine on saturday as well as having a second go at putting an aux on the bose as well as a few other minor things i want to give some attention to. good thing i need to get up early for the F1, looks like it's going to be a long day! will post back with results

when we were messing about in the office on webuyanycar.com (yes, annoying isn't it!), they offered £8155 for my UK 54 plate (which has done 44k). Not that I'm selling, it's just interesting to see what they'd pay for it compared to the market list price.... I guess you could get a bit more than that though given the parts it's got on it even if the interior's a bit nackered. Either way you go, I guess you'd end up spending about the same, but if it were me, I'd get way more satisfaction from doing it up rather than replacing

is it a UK car or a JDM? Not that it's important, I'm just interested

how about, Sarnie ibtl 20k is some serious posting! nice work sarnie

Cool! Finally get to see your new addition! 54 plate as well - the best kind!

for anyone feeling adventurous, here's the instructions for removing the door cards. I'll probably do mine this weekend as the scratches are getting ridiculous on mine: http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Door_Panel_Removal

I get between 12 and 18mpg for my daily crawl through the city. The lowest I've ever seen was 8, but can't say I'm that fussed really as I'm doing only 40 miles per week and it's still cheaper than getting the bus!

Now then mate, the only part you can get wrong is soldering the earth to a audio tab lol...Just check you have them all right yeah, i think the positioning is ok, but i think one or more cores from the shielding cable might be touching an audio lead. its going to have to wait as i've got to dismantle the drivers door first to fix an issue with my window getting scratched to pieces. on top of that, i've got a digital camera in 10 pieces on my desk that really needs sorting!

I've noticed that i'm getting a lot of scratches on the driver's window. The marks are all vertical which suggests that the window is scratching as its opened and closed. I've cleaned the rubber seals, but it appears that whatever is causing it, is further down the door. Is there a way I can clean this out without having to resort to removing the door card? Also, I need to get rid of the scratches - I had a quick go at it with brasso, but it didn't seem to be helping. Should I persist or is there something else I should use?

shell v-power seems to be most people's favourite tipple, although i hear good things about tesco's high octain stuff... i personally use bp ultimate as it happens to be the nearest petrol station to me bar sainsburys (and i'm a nectar points whore!)

Well, i did mine today but i think i've shorted something as soon as i connect the jack to my phone, my phone switches off! Everything car-wise still works, but the weather was too crappy to really have another attempt today. Will try again next week

I've got my phone working now so weather permitting I'll be yanking mine out tomorrow as well

yup! looks pretty much spot on now i just need to figure out what the hell is going on with my phone so i can use the headphone socket at the same time as bluetooth

thats what i said yeah, it's also what i said, yet the question keeps getting asked if the weather holds and i can find a 3.5mm cable, i'll post up some sort of guide

only the l-ch and r-ch points need to be connected If I get the time - i'll do mine on saturday and post up photos

well, a 3.5mm jack will have 2 connections, left and right so solder them. if it needs a ground (which i doubt), then you could always solder on a wire then connect it to an earthing point...

yeah they're the ones. at a guess i would say r-ch = right channel l-ch = left channel and a-gnd = ground

pretty much, but as mentioned above, if you solder to the 3 top right connectors in that picture instead, you don't need to break the tracks on the PCB. you also need to put a cassette in to trick it into playing otherwise you can't select "tape". most people use a dummy cassette so that it doesn't make any noise from the gears

I was going to pull mine out and put an Aux on it until i realised that my phone's headphone socket doesn't work when connected to the Bluetooth adapter

I've only ever seen it done on the US bose. That's not to say it can't be done on a UK/JDM, but it might be different. In any case, here is the image of the soldering points: And here's the full article on how to do it: http://my350z.com/forum/audio-and-video ... guide.html

Cool, both the driver and passenger window in mine have got a lot of minor scratches on them (i think there's grit in the there somewhere). I'll clean them out and give this a shot