Mark@Abbey m/s

That includes a Uprev remap the above figures Not worth upping the rev limiter power normally rolled over at around 6800rpm

normally see around 250/255 hub bhp if you add HFC's or De-cat your see around 260/265 bhp which is just about 300bhp @ the flywheel, this is the best £ per bhp stage

totally agree with this. but is it worth trying to find the restiction

If your going FI a stock TB will flow 600+ bhp easily. The dyno plots where using the vac take off from the front of the plenum. It is strange that a car fitted with cams shows a little more vac than a car without so this leads me to there is a restriction somewhere but I dont think it is worth trying to remove the restriction like fitting cams to gain approx 10 bhp on a DE motor

Well we had a car in last week DE 350Z , good friend of mine brought a car that had a noise top end , he stripped the motor to find a tappet shim area worn away, so he changed this and I thought what a good time to fit a set of HKS cams 264 deg duration (will find full spec out) and he fitted Tomei headers at the same time. Dyno plot for when we dropped the car on the dyno with original tune from previous Uprev; Car was fitted with Plenum spacer,Velocity stack,De-cats and exhaust system + Uprev Car gave the same power top end but less power at the bottom. Dyno plot after tuning the cam position and playing with fuelling and timing 25bhp gain on this car but even at 278 hub bhp (estimated 318bhp flywheel) it is only around 18bhp up on a stage 3 tuned car ( plenum spacer,velocity stack,de-cats,good exhaust and UPREV tune) We had to limit the amount of cam advance at the top end when running the HKS as running the inlet fully advanced lost a lot of power due to not having enough dynamic compression but still gave good numbers. So the question is the costs to fit cams and headers worth it for 15+ bhp and the torque gain? We see around 260/270 hub bhp from a stage 3 car now-days. Dyno plot below for a car fitted with Plenum,Velocity stack, ART pipes and exhaust system with UPREV above car with Cams as well gain off around 9 bhp and 5lb/ft torque. Now is that worth all the work off fitting cams, power still rolls over around 7000rpm as well

vaccum recorded in plenum on dyno pull. High pressure day weather wise.

Marcus, that's what I thought, I agree a lot of braking issues are caused by pad material being left on rotors , normally caused by people holding there foot on the brakes after stopping with hot brakes (brakes make heat) But ANY run out will cause issues. Also make sure the bearing flange is perfect as well , Marcus (Disc Skimmers) and Abbey have had a lot of issues with 350Z's with wheel bearing flange having run out.

if a disc has a run out it can cause brake judder , has anyone measured the run out? Also we have found a lot of 350Z having run out on the front wheel bearing flange this will cause run out on the brake as well. I do agree a lot of brake judder is caused by brake pad material transfer but 1st thing I would check would be disc/wheel bearing flange run out.

Hi , As someone said I had done a long reply sometime ago , will dig it out; The lambda response rate on the 370Z Front wide bands isnt a worry tbh as the car doesn't run full time closed loop Lambda control as stock from the factor unless when we tune with ECUTEK we can set up a RaceRom map to allow Full closed Loop fuelling with lean AFR trips if needed on FI cars no need to worry on NA cars thou. When I get time I will answers all the questions on here with snap shots from the UPREV/ECUTEK software.

HR 350Z in with low oil pressure and idle issues. Typical gasket breaking up and causing an oil leak; Uprated gaskets being fitted

Strange how people still use string. I came from the Racing World were we used String to set up cars originally and they are good at race tracks but I so prefer a modern alignment rig to base workshop set ups so more accurate I feel. TBH I would of used an Eibach rear camber/track kit comes with eccentrics to allow the track to be adjusted correctly. CW's look good diagonally typical RHD car with front right being heavy.

the 370Z comes with the updated oil gallery gaskets http://www.350z-uk.c...allery-gaskets/ So this thread is not accurate then ? Seems I might be wrong early 370Z are listed with 350Z gaskets on our parts list.

Around these area's your see the LIP that points down (outer sill connects to floor plan. Easy to get to when on a Scissor Alignment Ramp; These cars squat a lot especially when FI like yours; 15mm isnt a lot over the length of the car.

the 370Z comes with the updated oil gallery gaskets

Yeah Mark have Adjustable drop links etc. I think there gonna disconnect the roll bars set up and then adjust the drop links to match. I think I'm just gonna get cross weights correct as I know you can't really adjust the front rear set up etc. Mark do you have any idea on best rake angle for 350z's?? There using 100KG ballast in the driver seat (I'm looking to lose weight lol) too. We have found around 10/15mm rake works best. We measure on the car sill lips (that hang down) approx 15mm from each end of the sills. I must admit my Red track car needs a little more rake feels like it has too much weight transfer when exiting the corner under power maybe needs a little more weight ont he front , if we harden the damping up we just break traction , we aren't to stiff on the springs either , think 10kg front 8 kg rear (roughly) from my memory.

Yes it is worth looking at but don't get to involved in trying to get the front/rear axles weights spot on. Just look at the combined diagonal weights. Thanks

Corner weights. Hope you have adjustable roll-bar links? to stop any jacking of weights when the spring platform or damper lengths are adjusted We only look at getting the diagonal weights the same LF+RR=RF+LR work to around 5% and that will be good enough we not in single seat car never drive on a flat piece of road and never normally brake in a straight line so no need for perfect corner weights ( you cant get perfect corner weights on ours car unless you start running different rate springs on the same axle) as our cars are biased due to being RHD

All UK 370Z have Viscous LSD I think. I think the shaft is the same as a 350Z Nick I can send you a machined shaft and you can send your un-machined shaft back; I have a few spare 350Z LSD units in stock

Car is lowered so rear camber gain is pretty agressive on the 50/70Z's. We always advise Eibach rear camber/track kit on any lowered 50/70Z The front camber is on the stock car maximum _ negative camber as well. look at the difference between the stock and KW suspended car.

Fitting a Quaife into any Viscous Nissan LSD needs the above preparation. Think difference between 50 and 70Z is a very slight final drive difference

The latest Hunter upgrades has all the latest Nissan Alignment Specification (Nismo specs as well) Nicks car had our latest spec used on Alignment I think. Toes adjustment make a huge difference on these cars with the width of the front wheels/tyres.

Seibon front wings, some work to make them fit nicely but look. Pretty cool +20mm wider as we run 10x18 all round Yeah maybe a little to loud running. Decatted Invidia!

Yes saw that been away on holiday will answer shortly. Thanks

Passenger side (bank 2) always seem to run leaner on a FI car. Running an after market wide band in the ART pipe rear sensor position isn't really the right thing to do this is done to help stop throwing catalytic converter efficieny DTC by restricting flow to sensor so a wide band will also see a non honest signal. The wide banded AFR cars we will tune using the stock front wide bands figure from these is pretty good. The earlier cars like early DE JDM imports have narrow band sensors which are a little slower to respond.

Both ways work in my opinion. From the motor will give a reading that will show how hard your working the oil. After the cooler will give you a reading that will show the cooler is working. Nissan read the oil temp on the HR in the sump casing which I think is in the feed from the oil pump to the oil filter. With a OBD reader and the oil temp sensor reading from after the oil cooler you can see how well your cooler is working.