ikarus

Dude........ best thread title of 2010 vote #1 right here...... pi$$ed myself

^ good man. One question, what do want from it, pop or rumble (or a best fit compromise)? Hip hop & r&b go both ways (if you know what i mean).

ocd i have the same obsession, alas, i have only just begun.

If they have a website already and they don't expect huge amounts of traffic then you could get a way with a domain pointed at a pc at home running the website, as long as you have a decent internet connection upload speed. I often run stuff of my own pc, actually i have a dedicated pc in the garage on 24/7 - i used to run my own business from it, but now i just host stuff if and when i sell cars etc. (PS anyone want to buy a very fast mr2 turbo on low miles and big boost?). Just a way of reducing costs if traffic is expected to be low, if not then bandwidth is an issue and they would need to pay for hosted .

Good rough calc fella, i just modelled this in cad, works out at 78.07 ltr. If you want a volume of 24.9 ltr, with that profile you would only need a width of approx 17cm. For a sealed box think way smaller - or more subs. What sub are you going to use, with that volume i'd go ported not sealed and tune the box lower (actually i did) - you will get lower bass from a larger box if it's tubed right. I run an 82 litre twin ported box in the rear hatch and it tunes to 24.08 Hz. Way lower than you will get out of a sealed box. Depends what you want from it really? Hope this helped

If you take a few measurements you could knock it up in a cad model and get the volume that way? Looks to me like you have way more volume than you need, you going to port the enclosure?

thanking you

Maybe these.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RAYS-VOLK-RACING- ... 9664877213 I just fitted a set of these after having to cut 2 alloy nuts off when they cracked. I am very happy with mine indeed. Might depent on the depth of the pockets on your wheels though, they sit just less than flush in mine and look great. I bought from the seller that i linked too and had no problems.

oops, i mean

Well said. Might seem like a lot of issues, but most are probably fairly easily solved - plenty of people on here willing to help out. Think of the finished project .

Did this today, 2 washers and now its perfect.. Before After Thanks Pimm for the heads up, great tip

Don't want the thread to turn into a debate, and I agree with most of the good advice. I just want to add my experience into this as it maybe helpfull.. I wouldn't want to pass 20hz to a sub, it's very low and uses a lot of energy unnecessarily - and worse it can damage the sub. Most good amps / head units have a specific filter built in to stop very low frequencies in addition to a low pass filter to take out the higher frequecies (effectively creating a band pass). I would prefer to pass >35Hz to the sub and tune it lower with the port (assuming is not a sealed enclosure). I have a 12" JL which will produce audio down to around 25Hz, but it's the port that creates the frequencies lower than 40Hz, not the woofer. Also, 100Hz is in the directional audio range, i would hpf around <80Hz to avoid messing up the front sound stage. But then it does depend on the slope of the filter to quite a large extent. Just my experiences #I stand corrected that's higher tech stuff that I don't know about so jacr, use this guy to build your system doh Only kidding, glad to advise where i can. I'm no expert but i've been around car audio for a good while.

Don't want the thread to turn into a debate, and I agree with most of the good advice. I just want to add my experience into this as it maybe helpfull.. I wouldn't want to pass 20hz to a sub, it's very low and uses a lot of energy unnecessarily - and worse it can damage the sub. Most good amps / head units have a specific filter built in to stop very low frequencies in addition to a low pass filter to take out the higher frequecies (effectively creating a band pass). I would prefer to pass >35Hz to the sub and tune it lower with the port (assuming is not a sealed enclosure). I have a 12" JL which will produce audio down to around 25Hz, but it's the port that creates the frequencies lower than 40Hz, not the woofer. Also, 100Hz is in the directional audio range, i would hpf around <80Hz to avoid messing up the front sound stage. But then it does depend on the slope of the filter to quite a large extent. Just my experiences

I do not have the equipment to measure this, I just followed the manual for the subs recommendations ie internal volume, port position, diameter and length. According to the manual this should give 38 - 40Hz. I mainly listen to Indie/Rock music and find it excellent for this! The setup is a massive improvement over the Bose system and well worth the effort, the front Hertz component speakers are excellent. Good work, bet it sounds nice PS if you download a test tone CD and run thought the frequecies, you'll get a pretty good idea of where the bass low cuts - cheap and easy way to get feel for the frequency. Manufacturers recommendations are usually pretty reasonable. You'll also notice any bright spots in the range which you can then tune out on the H.U. equaliser Are you going to be taking it to any shows this yr, would love to have a listen

i thank you

? now

Nice PS What frequency did you tune the port / box to?

Congrats Amy, look forward to seeing at the shows! Cant believe it's black and white, since i painted mine i just keep seein em! Bet it feels HHUUGGEE to drive after the FTO. PS you have no airflow over your rad with that no. plate stuck there!

lol, sorry At least the fix is only the cost of a few washers!

Thanks all Pimm i can't believe i didn't find that thread - i'll try the washer thing later Like many i have a wife diagnosed Zed OCD and this was really buggin me!

I've had a a lot of bodywork done recently, one thing that is continuing to bug me is the fuel cap alignment. It would appear that this is poor on a lot of zeds. The bodyshop have painted mine but were unable to properly align it, although to be fair it was poor before. Anyone else have this problem? Anyone had any success in realigning them with the bodywork? It's really anoying me and i want to sort it

Good call! Somehow i forgot about about that - no idea how i could have, i spent most of xmas and several weekends after fitting mine in the rain / snow . My mind must have blanked the whole painfull experience Me too, i should be attending a good spread of shows and meetings this yr so your more than welcome . Without wishing to hijack this thread, I'm going to start an audio build thread on my install once its back from the trimmer. You got a thread on your install anwhere?

IMO you for that money you would be better off with one sub and amp but it is up to you. IMO 0.3cuft is quite small so it will limit your possible subs. Also if you are using your own amp then the impedance of the bose doesnt matter. You will have rca's to your amp then speaker wire to your sub. Depending on your sub and amp ohms will go from there. So you dont have to get an amp or sub that works at 2 ohm. You could get one that works at 4 or 1 or 2 if you wanted. Make sure the amp is matched to your sub. +1 I agree on all points above, the sub you run and it's configuration (if multiple of dual voice coil) will determine what ohms it will run at (aim for 4 Ohm imho - nice and safe). I would run one good 10inch as i'm guessing there really isn't the volume in one of those under brace boxes to run two 10inch woofers at anywhere near the right volume - even for a sealed box - although i haven't had a good look at the enclosure in question. One will sound better at the right volume than two with with too little volume. I know your budget is tight, but actually i would start by replacing the H.U. and door speakers (components) first then adding an amp and a sub later (and powering the new door speakers from the amp also). For house music etc, if your not too bothered about really low bass, you will get plenty of tight punchy bass out of a pair of 8inch subs at a lot less cost AND at a lot less enclosure volume. They can sound really nice if tuned correctly keep us posted, be nice to see more audio build threads on here

It's pretty straight forward . I just changed a few wheel studs on the front of my zed due to thread damage.. Loosen wheel nuts Jack up car Remove wheel nuts Remove wheel Remove brake caliper (2 bolts - can be a little tight - a good socket and bar is necessary here, i also used a little freeing oil and left it 30mins) Pull off brake disk (suspend caliper first using string or zip ties, then pull off by hand) Remove wheel studs (tap out with soft hammer, use a wheel nut on the end to avoid thread damage) Insert new wheel studs (use a packer of some description then wind on a wheel nut to pull them in) Re-assemble everything (use correct torques) There is a guide on the tech wiki which helps, it's for the rear though. The front is easier as it doesn't have the additional drum brake assembly for the handbrake. The job took me less than an hour (for one side). PS when removing the caliper bolts, be carefull not to damage the abs sensor. link.. http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Wheel_Stud_Replacement

yep