ikarus

Can yo apply a film? that way it can be removed easy if it becomes an issue.

I'm sure I've done worse

What was it?

I have a few planes and a few heli's in the garage. Haven't flown in a year or two though, would be a disaster if i tried too now Got into it at university when i did an aeronautical degree, a few years back now though! I usually frequent the RAF Cosford show too as its only a few miles away for me

Yes that was a pain, i wrote this up but it's way back in a thread somewhere. Might be usefull so i just moved it to the guides section, link below .. viewtopic.php?f=35&t=34905

As suggested, i've moved this info to the appropriate section.. Open your door and you'll see the rubber gaitor and plastic clip, pull down the grey lever to release it. Tip, pull the door back (close) just slightly and you actually get a little more room. Pull the assembly down under the toor stop bracket. Now with the clip in its open position you can remove the grey lever with a a little help from a flat blade screwdriver. Now the black plastic cover also comes off by releasing the clip, you should just have a rubber gaitor now. Roll back the rubber gaitor to reveal the wires. If you fish about inside the car just above the kick panel location (kick panel removed) you will find the other half of the assembly, unclip this from the bodyshell and pull it free and into the footwell where you can work on it. *This is the tricky bit! You need to create a hole in each of the plastic wire connectors for your new speaker cable to go through. Use some unused space away from most of the used pins. I used a knife, then a drill (about 3mm i think), then finally i used a soldering iron - there is no easy way to do this - you just need to be patient and take your time. If you mess up the neighbouring wired pins its all over - BE CAREFULL!! *HINT - if it's cold (it was) run up your engine and put the heater on, it blows out straight onto your head while you work. Once you have enough clearance for your new wire, clean up the connector and then it's on to the other half. Do the same to the other half of the connector (now in the footwell). Make sure your new holes will align when you clip them back together - this is very important. Next start to feed the new speaker cable through, i started inside the car and worked outward. Fee the cable through the plug and up through the hole in the body panel for the clip. Next feed it though the outer clip ready to go through the rubber gaitor. Next i pushed out the rubber gaitor from where it seats in the door. Then made a small slit in the part that sits inside the door so i could push through a large cable tie to act as a guide pull. Now attach the speaker cable to the cable tie with a little gaffa tape (to too much - you dont want to make it too thick). *HINT - spray a little silicon lube or 3in1 oil on you finger tips and coat the gaffa tape and cable - it will slide through easily now (it wont if you don't believe me!). Now pull/push the cable through the rubber gaitor. Once you have the cable through, feed it into the door with enough to reach your speakers, then reseat the gaitor into the door side. Now re-assemble the clip in reverse order. Next re-seat the inner clip above the kick panel in the body panel, you need to feed the top part in first and then pivot the bottom part in untill it locates. Next align the outer clip with the grey lever full down (not as photographed - i realised this after i took the photo) into position (again move the door slightly inward to give you the room to do this). THIS IS IMPORTANT - from the inside simultaniously pull any speaker cable slack back into the car to avoid any bunching inside the clip assembly. Next just move the grey lever back into it's locked position and there you go. Before putting the door card back on, plug in the electric window control panel and just check everything is working ok. *CAUTION - the two clips are male pins and a female socket, if you disturb any of the male pins significantly you could damage them when you try to re-assembly everything - they have to align on both sides. *PS my car has been re-sprayed and there is some overspray on the clips, i could see how this might be confusing on some of the above images. It worked for me, i now have decent cable running to the door speakers ikarus.

Looking very nice, will come alive with the trim done. PS as long as your comps are 6.5's they should fit ok, although i did some fibregalss work on mine so not sure about the stock tweeter location. Good work Shaun fastest build i've seen.

I have this spoiler, it's definately blitz

ditto

Thanks for all the birthday wishes The sun even came out too, got to drive the car in the dry Cant wait to get to the shows!!

Recieved with thanks Will get this fitted a little later today edit: That't it fitted, 60 second mod thatnks to BulletMagnet's guide

me too, paid and pm'd addy.

urm, yep i think so. From my previous pc builds there will be an arrow on the casing of the fan showing the direction of airflow. When you bolt them in just make sure one is pointing in and the other out

pm'd regarding the big piece, need to check its ok for a roof wrap if possible please?

Should be both loud and clean. Even more so with the front sorted, good decision

I would definately suggest some air flow around the amp if it's going to be restricted with a false floor. Not actually done that though - but i would probably go with large, low speed fans so they are quiet, not sure how many you would need though. Also, that's a lot of bass without an amped front end, i would definately be looking to change the comps and amp them - makes the world of difference . Stock speakers are really poor Don't bother with the rears though, i spent over a ton on a pair of coaxials for the rear and when i tuned the system it sounded better without them. A similar setup in my mr2 sounded better with rearfill, just depends on the car and the setup. I really only wanted to run the cables once so decided on adding them in the early stages - live and learn.

Awsome progress Shaun. Can wait to see what it all comes together like. I forgot to say - not sure if you were planning too, but don't use any fibrefill in the enclosure - your design showed much better results without any. Where are you putting the amp etc? Also, what's up the front?

That was quick

Np. If you make the box too big then you can fine tune the volume by adding more wood inside. I managed all the mdf for my 3 enclosures in an mx5 - took some planning but anything is possible - made good use of B&Q's wood cutting facility though Good luck with it, remember to get some pics up as you go..

Shaun, i ran the numbers through bbp. I used min and max volume from the S12L7 owners manual and i also used bbp to optimise a volume based on best fidelity. These are the results... Manual recommended minimum (Orange plot line) volume 24.9 ltr F3 55.05Hz Manual recommended maximum (Green plot line) volume 56.6 ltr F3 52.14Hz BBP recommended hi fidelity (Yellow plot line) volume 45.84ltr F3 52.3Hz Plot is sound level (dB) against frequency (Hz). F3 is a measurement used to indicate the lowest audible frquency from a system. *BBP also shows that the S12L7 is more suited to a sealed enclosure than a ported enclosure. So, if it were me i would be looking to build an enclosure with an internal volume of 46 ltr (don't forget about driver displacement - the speaker takes up volume too). I would use an all mdf construction using 18mm sheet all round, but using a double layer for the baffle (the face where the woofer mounts). Hope that helps

Shaun, i'll model your kicker in BBP and let you know what volume it suggests for best performance. I would go for a single 12" sealed enclosure with the amp that you have. BBP should show us the way bud.. i'll come back to you sortly..

That amp has some power dude. A sealed 12 powered can punch pretty well with the right power. Have you modelled anything in BBP or WinISD ?

^ yeah that's the tricky bit In terms of hardware, are you looking to use what you have or put some new kit in? You seem ready to lose the spare wheel which is the fisrt step to super low bass..