mic-39

personally I would go with the 050 definately a better tyre

I would have thought that Paul should be able to gain between 10 and 20 bhp. Reading what is said above there is some argument in waiting until you have your mods done but then again you will get the throttle restriction removed( saves the buying of a d1 throttle controller). The cone filter looses you power so the k&n panel filter should be good, really unless you are going to go down the plenum spacer, decats and expensive exhaust route and even at that you are talking minimal gains (5-7hp at most) you will notice an amazing difference when Paul has finished with your standard car. Its not standard mapping he uses but specific to your 350 and you may find as I did that the original map in the car was not achieving its full potential anyway. On a personal note I was not trying to squeeze every last bhp out of the engine but wanted to improve what I thought was an already good car Again dont be disapointed in the initial readings of the dyno as it has been said RS dyno reads low anyway. Its the difference in the readings from start to completion that counts and be prepared for your Z to do at least 20-30 power runs until Paul is happy

Lightweight wheels by rays engineering Were an option on most cars--you can pick them up s/h for about £400

defo looks clean enough. Personally I think its a bit overpriced preparing for the mob of valuation attacks The black 04 with 61k is still nearly 10.5k and I would have thought about 9k

to the forum --you will find it a very useful resource You will find as is the norm with most jap cars the paint is a bit thin Enquire with some of the mods about the wales run--You will get the chance to meet members and see all the improvements you can spend your money on

for information http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_wa ... disk.shtml

Bridgestones 050 on rear of mine will only last about 8k miles and wear evenly. They are a soft compound so lifespan is never going to be great. One trackday took 2.5mm off alone over 115 miles Fronts have outlasted 2 rear sets

Hi Nearest is probably RS in Leeds and welcome

Martin Had a look at the graphs--torque looks low compared to mine in comparison to the hp rating. the traction control lights wentr out after driving for a few yards

+1 EBC did not mention when I discussed my issues with them that there was a conflict between yellowstuff and turbogroove discs

I know on mine when you turn tc off it is off and remains off. The first time on track I was a bit heavy with the right foot of the start line and thought i had broke the clutch till I looked in the mirror and realised that nothing was broke but the tyres were having a smoke

On top of what has been said 1. The jwt popcharger is known to loose hp--approx 5-8bhp but the noise is worth it 2. The car was running 97 ron and not 99 as preferred 3. The ambient temp was quite high and with heatsoak intake temps were in the 30's which will affect power 4. The car has 70k miles also My end goal was not to achieve blistering performance, really if i wanted that i would fit turbos, superchargers etc but really just to fine tune what Nissan have tried to achieve and to make better their shortcomings. I have achieved that for a few hundred quid and it has just made what i believe is a good car better

Funny they said the same to me when i had the same complaint @ Steve--was that you I was speaking to at RS on saturday

I would have assumed that the water pump would be noisy if it had got to the stage of leaking When you say it is leaking water do you mean that there is water leaking from below or is the radiator level dropping

If you have access to a ramp it is a twenty minute job There are drain plugs to both gearbox and diff. The diff from memory has also a magnet on the drain bung that needs cleaned. Also remember to make sure you have the correct oils I believe ALL 350'z use type gl5 in the diff Gearboxes on the early ones use Type GL4 and later spec GL5 As a side issue I recently had my gearbox rebuilt and the company used GL4 but a slightly lighter grade and my second gear shift when cold is ten times better than before--maybe just a co-incidence

NO This is a individual car specific remap. The data on your car is downloaded then tweeked and altered to achieve the maximum tailored to your car. A standard reflash can actually loose you power in certain instances. Every engine is different and everyone's mods are different eg exhaust, intake etc etc I was advised never to go for a "standard" reflash because what may be good for my car may not be good for yours. I would suggest that you give Paul a call regarding specifics Cost is slightly more expensive than a " standard" remap as such but honestly the difference is amazing and truthfully I would rather spend a few extra quid having a specific remap done and as you can see there were 36 runs made also to ensure that everything is in tiptop performance

after a 400mile drive motorway, town and a mixture of a and b roads

Firstly a big thanks to Paul for the works done on Saturday past. I decided a quite a while ago to have the remap works done to my car. There are no mods apart from the jwt air intake and an aftermarket k2 type exhaust As I had other things to be doing at the weekend I set off on Friday night got the ferry and travelled down to Leeds getting there at 3am Got up the next morning and headed over to RS. Paul was working on a cleo 172 on the dyno and after hearing is scream at 7500rpm I got a bit concerned about the Z doing that but thought I was there so I might as well go ahead with it now, half an hour later the Renault was finished and I handed over my keys Truthfully I was really aprehensive about the dynoruns but I quickly learnt that Paul definately knows what he is doing The car was reversed in and strapped down, Paul quickly set about checking the gear ratios and the general set up and after a few runs to check all these set about the initial power runs. Not being an expert at all about these things a few full runs were done and run 4 taken as the average. The initial surprise to me was the stock fuel map--It appeared to be all over the graph and Paul assured me that he would fix that. After what appeared to be an un-ending amount of dyno runs, a lot of tapping and pressing buttons on the laptop I noticed the power levels increasing and the car definately started to sound sharper. Its hard to explain in words but it sounded great beforehand but now was even better. After I think run 25 Paul came out of the car we went out for a think and a smoke . He thought he would alter cam timing and again after a few further runs the power peaked at the 282 flywheel. He said that the stock airbox would achieve further gains and that using higher octane fuel would improve things aswell--Intake temps were getting very high due to the fact that the outside temp on Saturday was 18 degrees and in the unit temps were over 32/34 degrees despite all 4 fans working I believe that the throttle response was atltered to achieve 100% opening and that the revlimiter was increased also. We had to call it a day at lunchtime as the bridgestones were really sticky and hot and this was affecting the final runs-apparently causing drag on the rollers. We finally then got the car out for a road test and immediately the difference was evident, the same car but so different, more responsive sharper and crisper sounding and a lot more drive-able Paul really knows his was around the 350 and I believe a specific car remap is the only way to go I said my farewells then headed off down the M1 to Derby and immediately the first thing I realised was that the fuel economy was between 35 and 36mpg Over the remainder of the weekend with quite a lot of town driving and over 4 tanks of fuel later the average was still over 28mpg. well impressed I would recommend RS and Paul for a stirling job

Gearbox top rear drivers side Reversing switch is on opposite side

No They are two totally different animals Why not try some of the traders on here they will usually match or better prices . I would have thought that brakes are one of the most important items next to tyres so dont skimp on them

Thats my query--what is it for and why do we need it??? It was showing up as a fault code according to nissan And I checked the service manual and yes it does exist and yes mine was replaced with a new shiny one

I have searched and cannot find any satisfactory answer why our cars are fitted with a park neutral switch on the gearbox. Recently I had mine replaced under warranty but I cannot see the reason for it on a manual box especially when we have a clutch activated safety feature to prevent starting Any ideas

Recently with the storms I happened to drive over a small branch and thought I got away with it until i noticed my reversing lights wernt working. seems that the branch ripped off the reversing light plug from the gearbox switch and left me with two wires. Would anyone have the connector/plug that goes onto the reversing light switch. It forms part of the rear loom and is not available without buying the entire loom