mic-39

I thought initially it was driving style or indeed something on the road but it has done this several times now granted a few times when wet but today the road was bone dry, the tyres were already warmed after having driven about 12 miles and my approach to the bend was fine, braking on the straight, balance power through the corner when mid corner traction control cuts in applying brakes on at least three occasions Traction/stability programme light flashes etc etc does not stay on and car resumes as normal after. It always happens on a right hand bend never left no matter how hard i try Its damb annoying

due to a little argument with a gate ( and a misjudgement on my behalf) I need the little plastic cover that covers the xenon washer jet on the passanger side Anyone

recently i have been experiencing a problem with the traction control. Under normal driving there is no problem however when the car is pushed on and when turning the steering wheel to the right at circa 60-65mph the traction control system takes over and starts automaticaly braking the car . Sometimes this happens when light braking is used sometimes when no pedals are touched Today this happened on a dry road, my tyres are re050 and are the standard manufacturer sizes and all are evenly worn and about 5mm rear and 4mm front. Initially I thought it was a soft tyre but all tyre pressures are good I have searched for similar faults and cannot find anything. My questions are 1. Has anyone experienced similar and what was the resultant cause 2. The system obviously uses sensors to measure wheel speed/rotation( I assume the same sensors as the abs system). Is there a sensor for weight distribution front/rear which is possibly overreacting with the weight transfer going around the corner. Thoughts would be appreciated

Doing about 250-300 miles a week Since the remap by RS I average circa 30mpg normal driving, 34 motorway and 14 if I drive mental Tyres last roughly 14-16k on the rear and 25k front but again dependant on driving style and tyre compound Servicing is not any more than a normal car ( most new cars are all fully synthetic etc) and whilst we have plugs to change at 50k-60k we dont have any timing belt so thats a plus Pre 04 car tax is circa £240 which again is pretty normal for any car other than the super eco friendly types Insurance will be a bit more than the norm but when all said what other car will give you the smile factor and make you want to drive to work

04 and would use about 1ltr between 5k and 9k miles and only after 5k miles . I assume this is the oil starting to break down and I usually change every 7k anyway. I did notice that it depends on the oil type, the genuine nissan 5-30 spec fs will drop on the dipstick yet the mobil 1 wont show any usage. Driving style also affects usage . Again if I am on long motorway drives for 5-6hours then oil use will be more than shorter spirited drives

Hi I have used this guy before for cleaning and protection products. He can match any colour of dye. If it is any use I have the orange seats and I could call around and let him match exactly if there was enough demand for touch up bottles

Thanks for that the only issue is that I am travelling down here at the minute with work staying in a hotel Is alex not up north?? Obviously postage is not possible to a hotel address but thanks for your suggestion

Hi Normally I dont fit second hand tyres however I noticed today the inner wall of my front tyres in pretty low --I need the tracking done again however as you are all aware the fronts outlast the rears on a 3 to 1 ratio and I Have about 4-5mm left on rears and dont want to mix brands by putting new tyres on the front. I want to change when the rears are done to fk452's all round I could do with a couple of stock re050's asap with about 4mm tread left. Im in the midlands at the minute so if anyone can help i can call over to collect and pay locally to get them fitted. I know there is a place in derby that deals with sh tyres but i would rather try a forum member that had maybe two lying about in the garage with some history knowing they are not from a frontal damaged car Am driving in the direction of oxford tomorrow if thats any use

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These guys do a full range of bushes for the Z http://www.superpro.eu.com/Index.asp I was impressed with the costs

Have you checked the tyre?? It could simply be a screw,nail or bolt that you have picked up and as you drive the matal head is hitting the tarmac

If you get really stuck and dont get sorted by the weekend I could take a drive down Pull one out of mine and take sizes and pitch etc.

Andy what exactly are you looking for --to get the bolts or to see a sample to match?? Does Hursts not have them or can get them next day??

Its down to choice in the real world the difference in acceleration will be minimal but for the sproty drive i prefer the manual at least you dont have the autobox wanting to shift mid corner

mine is the same as yours. The Z has a good servo and that is what you are feeling until you pump the brakes with the engine off and the vacum is released. I also drive an rs6 and the pedal in that again feels different. The Z feels more solid. Every car will be different but as Husky says change the brake pipes to Hell or Goodridge and you will notice an improvement Its not how it feels when stationary but how they get you stopped

plan number 16 if the willy option dont work get bus to b and q and buy a narrow wood chisel feed it down into hole and you should be able to chop the rubber in half and then either pull it out with wire or blow it out with an airline

can you not get the socket back onto the plug and screw the plug back out again, remove washer and refit plug this time not using the rubber washer thingy

I bought 1 from ebay seller. Quality of finish is good, sound is excellent really about 30% up on stock. There was a couple of fitment issues, mainly around the diff cooling cowling and a bit with tialpipe alignment. That was easily sorted as the guy that fitted was able to modify it. In summary-a good enough system, good sound but some fitment issues. I was happy as I only paid £160 for the rear box and midpipe --You get what you pay for but was worth the money as a basis--definately not plug and play as they say

Check the gearchange from 4th to 6th (normal driving come out of fourth and straight into 6th) . If it crunches you have a syncro issue Dont worry about the notchy 2nd change thats normal Oh and check the drivers window works all the time -motors can give a bit of hassle and check that all the early recalls were done to the car

Mine does that too but I have them set using the buttons on the right hand side for dimming the dash lights for night time driving. Maybe you have accidently pressed them to dim the dash lights down

I dont think, in fact I would be pretty confident that you cannot do this with the engine running--That is if it will run--The Z airflow meter is after the airbox and to get at the throttle body you need to disconnect the air pipe after the meter. The engine may run but you will definately throw a cel As said above just be careful moving the butterfly when you are cleaning

Hate to disagree with you guys 1. Insurance is not relevant-- Your policy excludes track use so if you had an accident you wouldnt be covered anyway 2. Cloning--Thats a bit silly--Go to your local supermarket car park and you can copy all the numberplates you wish--Being on track has no relevance Having tracked cars the main reason is warranty on the vehicle. You will find that most guys that cover the plates have relatively new cars still under warranty. I know of two cases where a dealer refused warranty repairs where a car had been on track, one case a bmw and the other an audi rs4. They provided video footage of the trackday as evidence and disallowed his clain for 2.5k of brake discs The audi owner subsequently took the dealership to court and was settled prior to the case being heard due to the fact that the car is designed as a sport model and track use was not abuse

Is £40 any good to you