GT4 Zed

When i say form I mean current. he looked sharper in the end of the season and is creative to change our standard flat and predictable approach which has seen us loose against bigger opposition eg Holland, spain , Brazil and struggle against "smaller" teams. Rooney is burnt out or has lost momemtum after his injury and it has been obvious for sometime. Playing him persistently just mounts his frustration and lack of confidence but if he had been made to feel hungry and brought it to make a difference he will be driven by a need to prove himself and find the mark again. This game has a draw or shoch defeat written over it as of now

The very reason we are crap despite having individually good players. I though when Capello came he would have the balls to play a compatible team rather force names on a teamsheet and hope for the best or personal brilliance to save us. The team should be based on form : James, Johnson, Upson, Terry, Cole Milner, gerard, Barry, J cole, Defoe, Crouch. Rooney, lampard, lennon should come in as impact subs When are we going to learn that lampard and gerad cannot play together

Congratulations Dan I think your last post swung it

Top gear track: - 350z (VQ35DE) 1:31:8 - R32 Mk IV 1:33:3 - 370z 1:27:5 not really if you consider the bhp difference and handling improvements Bedford autodrome: - 350z(VQ35DE) 1:32:05 - R32 Mk V 1:32:55 Nurburgring (nordschliefe) - 350z(VQ35DE) 8:26 - R32 Mk IV 8:37 - R32 Mk V 8:49 other rivals here: - Porsche Boster s (276BHP) 8:18 - Audi TT-s 8:29 - BMW Z4 3.0Si 8:32 - lotus exige S2 8:32 - S2000 8:39 Nuff said http://www.fastestlaps.com

Do you mean if you got off the track into the kiity litter(gravel trap ) having no ABS will enable you to drive through right? If that's your question then the answer is no as the ABS will have nothing to do with it. ESP is what you want off but anyway this is hypothetical anyway because deep in the litter you are going nowhere but get stuck like A BEACHED WHALE Same reason you are advised to switch it off when driving in snow/ice to give you traction. That,s what i meant by people percieving ABS as ESP/TC on the Zed which is not so. ABS inputs into ESP but are fundamentally different. ESP is cuts power via ECU control to regain you grip while ABS applies brakes to a prelocking wheel to avoid skid hence loss of control.

Nice one ol' chap The heading got me confused though

My wheels are gloss black nope! No photos of the tyres and wheel on this occasion. You always see some guys especially the Porsche crowd(p---ks) @ the Ring with their temperature probes and other gizmos and are forever altering stuff and i feel they are posing too much or showing off They drive and act like they own the place and it give me great pleasure when i manage outbrake one or stay in touch with them in the technical sections or genuinely overtake But i guess it makes sense to keep the tyres optimal.

You maybe right though as overheating can have this effect But may have been pushing on especially in the corners towards the mid-end of the first lap but nothing extraordinary as compared with MPS2 on. As they inspired confidence I braked later and put on power earlier as i could feel the rear hook up each time but I never powerslid or did any lairy stuff I came into the carpark for a quick tyre check and it looked perfect with nice heat tranformation of the surface compound. I checked my pressures which were fine then went for the next lap and by Hocheichen corner which is one of my favs it was squealing like a pig and broke grip at the rear into progressive slide but a few miles later it just understeer into a 4 wheels in drift then the rear would follow and i had hold with opposite lock but my confidence had gone. I took it easier from then on but it seemed to grip and be planted on corner entry but as you got tighter midcorner it just squealed/understeered and so i was having to put power down later and later and just damn slow in the end. As i said the tyre may have been old or had seen a hard life before and little left of its performance window Some of the Porsche guys said that this was not uncommon behaviour to experience sudden drop in performance with this tyre and it was irrespective of whether you were running low thread or not. When the grip goes it just went and thats the end. They also said it was optimal at around 4mm so some guys shaved them to get almost the best performance straight away in

Thanks Dan, I thought it will be the R888 and you have confirmed it. I have only used MPS cups with 3.5mm left on the zed and was disapointed. Was crap to start with, then once the old sheen had come off and was up to temp it gripped for about a lap and then just gave up suddenly But it will be unfair to rate it since i did not try them from new If for any reason you need tyres when you are there i will pm you a contact to help out. He actually runs the Nissan in Adenau and can get you the ultra performance MPS, Continentals road/track at trade price He quoted full 245/35/19 and 275/35/19 for MPS cups @ Eur800- including fitting. Can also rent lightweight wheels FOC if you by his tyres and has a facility where you can store your wheels/tyres ad lib and use them on subsequent visits. Cheap service and geo too. He ran a GT4 spec 350z on the ring for a while so has good advice on settings but Porsche is his first love like all germans.

Ok. post feedback

Dan, since you have good experience with the R888 and A048 which is better and has longevity? (asumming you are using medium compounds whcih is what i plan tp get) I am fed up with cleaning my 19" which i refurbished and PC'ed 3months ago and looks sorry for itself The brake dust from my race pads(PF01) is just murder I want to get OEM Rays just for trackday which will be lighter and should save a bit on smaller 18" trackspec tyres

You just might be the only....................................red in the village

Good work Anders But there is a lot of lip on those rotors . Have you measured the thickness? might just be worth refresing the Brembo kit with new/uprated rotors and pukka pads

Good luck with this But as mentioned above you need to or nissan needs to troubleshoot with a full inspection the exact issue rather than blindly change stuff. Even new pads will develope DTV if you have runout which is usually from the hubs. Thats why its good practice to check run out when installing new rotors and fit new pads sametime. Who has quoted you? So far as you have isolated the issue as DTV and this guys are employing an on car brake lathe then you are fine otherwise it will not work The only way to confirm DTV is to check the lateral runout

Nice write up Dan and overtly simplified to cater for varying depth of knowledge within the forum. I had covered this and actively discouraged people mixing tyres on each axle when i supplied part worns here. Worse still to mix on the SAME axle which is cardinal sin and asking for trouble People need to inform themselves period: before buying tyres especially and if they decide not to keep the OEM tyre rather than just do so on hear say or unfound recommendation or anecdotal evidence! There are other areas to I'm sure you left out for sake of not sounding to techie or boring such as thread depth difference, speed rating, load index etc which are also important to keep to OEM requirements. I have seen people with 4 cheap chinese stuff and with wrong ratings which is bad Anders also nicely pointed out tyre age being important too The only part i donot totally agree is your last statement about racing . YES sometimes it is an advantage to use mixed componds on different axles to achieve certain handling characteristics and is common practice in professional racing But at the end of the day one cannot transpose this into road cars so it really does not matter for our purposes

Nice vids mate. brings back memories of uni Back home we make a "peper soup" out of it with either fish, meat or lamb and you consume it the morning/afternoon after a heavy night of boozing and less i say it sobers you right up

Can you take a wider angle shot so as to help locate this part exactly just for reference But i agree with 3FIDDY must be loose so normal blow by oil is sipping through . If this was acting two way it would disrupt the negative pressure within the plenum chamber and result in rough iddling/running so nothing to worry . Start by making sure the bolt is secure and tight. Undo the bolt, dismantle the plenum completely and clean all the oil off with any solvent, and also the throttle butterfly valve too while you are at it Put it all back together. secure the problematic bolt after applying some thread locker and torque it to the appropriate amounts as with all the other plenum bolts. It is an easy DIY and the should be related guides here or 350ztech wiki or even youtube like this motodyne one to give you an idea.

Do the same too

The problem is not the spring clearing to openning mechanism once you press the release button but the extra weight of aftermarket or even OEM nismo spoilers overcomes the gas struts i believe the cars with OEM nismo kits have an OEM uprated strut. There are six ways to sort this problem: - The penny trick which i only learnt about now which has mixed results (probably works by counteracting the centerweight to shift the moment arm on the boots fulcrum) - Buy an uprated gas strut. http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=2976 - Regas your strut to cope with the added weight. Someone did this a while ago and posted the company who do this. So search..... It costs less than the option above - Live with it or remove the offending spoiler - Removing the counter weight which is at the center of the boot underneath the plastic trim Thats what i did for my N1 replica and it does the job and allows the boot to stay up most times(fails on cold days sometimes). Might not work for other heavier spoilers. - Try a combo of above and penny trick

Yes you may well have DTV but you need a full diagnostic check to exclude other causes of vibrations on braking. Nobody will cover brakes after 2yrs under waranty And 22k miles is more than reasonable for severe wear and tear to have developed Eg trackdays No lip means nothing. First, you need to do a proper inspection and measurement of the rotor thickneess and both in and out pads as any of them worn can cause this symptoms. Secondly, replace what needs replacing if at or beyond wear limit. But if there is lots of rotor left then get it skimmed as its the only definitive cure. Use Procut If you are getting a new disc then get run out checked and skimmed if way out. Also replace old pads for the best surface "marraige"

Wellcome back Ian, hope you had a swell time You are too hard on yourself mate? 258WHP is an improvement on your stock but the car will be way more responsive and smooth with the Uprev allowing for 100% throttle etc And again once your NOS is setup you will have even more HP I am free to go picjk up your car if you are stuck at work

Got mine done by archenemy last year they offer a mobile service and it cost me £80 for the rears. It is the same tool and process as the vid and takes about 1-1.5hrs all inclusive. The paint should not crack if there is no underlying rust which is not uncommon in the arch lip area. i think mine came about due to damage from rubbing when i fitted the 295s first before rolling so avoid the same mistake. He pointed the rust to me before doing my driver side and the paint did peel and the rust is still progressing. The passanger side was rust free and the paint has remained fine. In anycase you will have to accept a waiver that even is all is done well you can still develope rsut or cracking of the paint later as a result of roling. It did not bother me because i got a quote for £55 to repair the arch and blend the paint http://www.archenemy.co.uk Call/email the nearest local service to yourself and allow at least a week to secure a date

Nice one Gav My mate attends this religiously from worcester but i am always too lazy to follow. Must do it sometime

Are we meant to mind read who they are Bennet? http://www.redditchshotblasting.co.uk/ I thought i pasted the link