andlid

MODEL NAME: DUNLOP TYRES / RUNFLAT RUN FLAT / DUNLOP SP SPORT 600 - 285/35RF20 100Y RFT PRICE £426.07 inc.VA & FRONT DUNLOP TYRES / RUNFLAT RUN FLAT / DUNLOP SP SPORT 600 - 255/40RF20 97Y RFT TL PRICE £402.46 inc.VAT Supossed to be good in the wet... 285 and 255 width will be good in the dry! so 1600 on rubber...

halfords Not sure but did you REALLY need 3 litres of OIL?! To much oil ain't good either...

nothing problaby... either loose some of the expense or get a higher income If you REALLY want to know where all your money goes make a budget and take in ALL the expense you do and see where it all ends up...then put 200-300£ if not more asside into a savings account.. did that a good while back myself and have around 8k sitting there waiting to be spent Try the credit card tip sounds good to me

glws look tasty, what is the lowering adjustments (high vs low) ?

yeah I hear you... my bike (SV 650S) didn’t even show it's light before the engine seized due to oil starvation on the front cylinder

Have seen examples where low oil can cause low oil pressure. A top up was all that was required. Also confirmed by ZMANALEX at the time The Zed has a low oil level warning but no low pressure warning. Hope it wasn't your engine? i would be very wary of future reliability of an engine showing low oil pressure because of low oil level, most engines are designed to have oil pickups that are always below the oil level, even when the low oil light is lit. The only time i have ever seen oil pressure drop is when there is low oil coupled with very high/sustained cornering, IE track with a badly designed or un baffled sump. think mine did the same...

Engine speed rpm.................................Approximate discharge pressure kPa (kg/cm2 , psi) Idle speed.......................................................More than 98 (1.0, 14) 2,000.............................................................More than 294 (3.0, 43) 6,000.............................................................More than 392 (4.0, 57) Not sure the gauge on the dash can be used for it though, looks like you need to check that with this: 1. Check oil level. Refer to LU-6, "Inspection" . 2. Remove undercover with power tool. 3. Disconnect oil pressure sensor harness connector. 4. Remove oil pressure sensor. 5. Install pressure gauge. 6. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 7. Check oil pressure with engine running under no-load.

I was joking wasn't aimed at you, ya big muppet check who i quoted, it wasn't you Oh..... @ me, Ill get my coat.

is your car having dark end pipes? (oily) Is it oil in the plenum (intake manifold) chamber, is it dirty in the trottle body? You might be dragging some oil back into the car via the two areas into the plenum.. get an oil catch can! Or you might have a leaky valve cover gasket. (mine is leaking a tiny tiny bit on the 6th cylinder) or oil is escaping elsewhere. I hear different stories from different Z owners (not sure if this is down to pure driving style) that some fill up oil all the time between oil changes and some dont... I do and keep a very close eye on it, if you see the oil light it could be to late!

Thanks for that I did search using several configurations, but got nothing on each occasion Thats why i finally asked. i just typed "throttle controller" into the search function and it was the 4th post down if search isn't working for you the advanced one underneath is better and shows whole threads instead of all the posts. anyways, hope the original post helps I was joking

Correct bar one thing, Mr A wont have any money in the bank account... he will however have more mods on his car then Mr B

good man

you gotta show me how to do that some day feel some difference in mine now since I got the uprev, supposed to do the same thing

i got one if you do can you find a tuner that can baseline your car for you first and then fit the manifold and do a tune followed by another dyno? my dyno baseline and followed mods makes it hard to see what and where I got my hp/s and torq figures, also that I had a complete new map done on different type of petrol made it even harder... can see I've got much more torq now with manifold, hfc's and new exhaust. but equal or less hp!!! different dyno though and less octance petrol so not as high advanced timing etc... it does make a massive difference in sound though, I like *expensive mod though.

check your throttle body, keeps getting pretty dirty on mine and needs a good clean. have you tried this when it doesnt start: hit the accelerator to the floor and keep turning the engine about 5 times then turn the key to the off position, start it again and this time pump it a few times, once you hear the engine starts (if it does) floor it and keep it there. happened to mine a few times when the cold nip was here, only when it first started I drove to quick and the engine cut out...

what baseline dyno do you have before going in there, what have you done and what do you expect to see? baseline = never been on a dyno ever before, with any car, what has been bone = invidia true dual, typhoon CAI, kinetix HFC's, Carbon plenum with spacer, TB spacer expect to see = my car on a dyno going vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrooooooooooooooooooooooooooommmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!!!!!! cool, enjoy! hope mark will give you a quick tuning tour, it's pretty cool to get to know some stuff. change oil in the car if you can, make sure you've got enough oil in her too. will be interesting to see what she puts, plenty Id say take some videos oh and stop posting in the jdm section!

what baseline dyno do you have before going in there, what have you done and what do you expect to see?

What exactly does that mean? And do you have to go to Abbey to get it done? you can go to anyone that has uprev I'd say and know what they are at if you have a jdm car it will be restricted to 180km/h (112mph) its the law over there, so to get rid of that you can re-flash it in abbey motorsport. similar to what you do with a mobile thats restricted to one carrier network... mmm

Read here for a full tune of the ecu and dyno viewtopic.php?f=114&t=26118 I've got mine dyno'd and mapped already and only did the uprev to get rid of the speed limiter and full throttle response in lower gears.

welcome! didnt know the mirrors should dip when you reverse on any jdm model

Think you need the badge there to break it up a bit, dont think you should go smooth. Keep the lines... or adjoin them...

# Wheels and Tires # 20 x 9.5" (front) and 20 x 10.5" (rear) super-lightweight forged-aluminum wheels with Gunmetal Gray finish. # Exclusively developed nitrogen-filled Bridgestone� RE070A high-capacity run-flat summer tires, 255/40R20 front and 285/35R20 rear. # Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). # Optional exclusively developed nitrogen-filled Dunlop� run-flat all-season tires, 255/40R20 front and 285/35R20 rear (includes Bright Silver wheels). ^^^^ Thats what they come with... BRIDGESTONE TYRES / CAR / BRIDGESTONE RE070 POTENZA BRIDGESTONE RE 070 - 285/35RF20 100Y RFT TL 296.25£ on camskill.co.uk BRIDGESTONE TYRES / CAR / BRIDGESTONE RE070 POTENZA BRIDGESTONE RE 070 - 255/40RF20 97Y RFT TL (Nissan GTR) 272.59£ on camskill.co.uk... going to cost you a bit to get rubber for them yokes.

Quick guess it's for some 20" GT-R's

hmm are you talking dyno/tune or just delimiter and throttle opening?

I know old thread but man that is some nice piece of work!