This guide will describe how to replace JDM brakes with Brembo brakes.
From:
JDM Standard caliper
JDM Standard discs
JDM brake lines
To:
Brembo gold caliper
Brembo standard discs
Brembo brake lines
I was lucky enough to get a set that contained caliper, disc and pads with the lines still attached.
Tools needed:
sockets
22mm (for the nuts holding the calipers)
21mm (for taking of the wheel nuts)
wrench sizes
10mm (top connector brake line)
11mm (bleeding screws on calipers)
12mm (brake line boxes)
jack stands (I did one corner at a time so only needed 1)
jack lift (I need that to get the height I want when raising up the car)
socket wrench longish shaft (mine was 30 cm and worked fine, this is to get enough power to get the caliper nuts off)
socket wrench normal shaft
double tt spray (to soak the bolts in for a while)
one plastic bottle (for brake fluid)
two bottles of brake fluid, or three if you want to completely flush the system
one bleeding kit (if you don't have someone to help you bleed the brakes)
a rag, use the oldest looking kitchen towel that's what I do...
hammer
Thinks that I hope you will not need:
Dremel 300 with diamond cut disc (needed for one rusty bolt)
Thinks that I should have had:
New brake line kit ala braided hose that goes from the caliper straight to the top connection cutting out the need for the other connectors.
First loosen the wheel bolts a bit then lift the car up, I've got so many different ways of doing this and keep changing my mind every time too! This last time I jack it up a bit with the Nissan jack then I use my aftermarket jack lift and stick that under car at the front where there is a jack point and raise the car up so I can put two jack stands on each side at the same time. Do whatever way suits you but use proper jack stands and secure the car properly.
Now that you've done that take the wheel nuts off. Take the wheel off. It should look like something like below:
Take the penitration spray and spray the following points:
Two bolts that holds the caliper on the back (22mm) the top bolt 10mm that we start unscrewing first and the two blocks bolts (12mm) that holds the brake lines in place. See picture below where the points are located.
Get your wrench nr 10 out and start unscrewing the top bolt as pictured below, have that plastic bottle handy you will use that to stick the pipe into. (it will leak brake fluid at this point)
Now once loose stick that plastic bootle in there as pictured below.
This will slowly empty out the old fluid into it, don't worry about that... lets go to the next step.
I used a hammer for this (hammer you say! ... fear not) It's the easiest way that I could see to use little force to get the spring plate out as pictured below, take it out nice and easy. NOTE which way is up and down on it for fitting later.
Now that we've got that off we want to start taking out the two bolts holding the brake line(s) making it to the caliper. The inner one is a tricky one to take out I found it's sitting on a mount that's pretty flexible so when you apply force you tend to flex it and the result 'can' be that you round the bolt. (this happened to the first side I did and had to spend 30 or so minutes to cut it off) A 'trick' that I used was to use the 12mm wrench with the circular side on the bolt while tapping with the ... correct the hammer, then move it both in counter clockwise and clockwise movements... after a while it just gave way and opened Once these are both off take the top cable out of it's mount (where you took the bracket off with the hammer) note the way this sat in the hole, look at the picture below and see the cuts, they are to face towards you when you refit the new lines. (see picture below)
Now get that 22mm socket and put it onto the wrench with the longer shaft, time for some musle force! Find the two rear bolts holding the caliper (see picture below) and take them off, use as much force as you like... had a nightmare to get one off!
Once off take the caliper and the disc and the brake lines out of the area and you'll be left with an emtpy shell, take the new disc and put it on also use two wheel bolts to secure the disc (see picture) this will also help when bleeding the brakes to stop the whole package from flexing.
Now put the caliper in place over the disc, put the lines in place also where the old lines where. Put the two bolts in by hand that holds the caliper in place then attach the brake lines. I managed to break one of mine, good to have a motorfactors just around the corner so had a new copper one made up. ()
This is it all fitted:
Now you need to bleed the system, I used a valve setup like pictured below.
Think I got some air stuck in the system though so will need to do it again. Will use an assistant to do the following:
Pump three times then hold it firmly to the 'floor', open inner valve and pedal will go to the floor, close valve. Do that about 5 times until no air comes out, then repeat this on the outer nipple. Once you are happy with the bleeding put the wheel(s) back on and lower the car. CHECK the brake fluid level...
Short Summary:
Jack up car
Take wheels off
Take top bolt off on the brake line, then middle, then closest to caliper now take off the spring clip that holds the brake line then take off the caliper by taking off the two 22mm bolts that holds it, install in reverse order.
Time for a test drive! (you might want to know that you've got a handbrake if there is air trapped in the system) (before you take off pump the pedal pressure up...)
Next up is the rear replacement.
Please if you plan to do this get a braided brake line set, it will save you time and be far better and safer then reusing the old ones.
Link to braided lines here:
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