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Having not long refurb'd my 18' RAYS and with them fitted for the Anglesey trip, they naturally got proper grimy. Following the successful install to my Varrstoëns, I had the bright idea to again PPF the lips. Never seen anyone do it before. Measured, cut and installed - barely even tell it was there unless really looking for it. By far the best protection for the part of the wheels that gets most brake dust abuse. PPF used Suntek Ultra

Hi Tom, Get a cheap but good OBD reader from Amazon and read the errors yourself, rather than going to a garage. Possibly the camshaft or crankshaft sensors, but could be many more things. Check brake fluid level as well. Post the error codes here once you got them.

Car looks amazing . Would look even better with the radio aerial blanked if you don’t use it or a very short stubby. Love what you have done..

few updates recently New set of tires for the summer also re-tinted the drivers and passenger side windows a light smoked tint. recently at Dubshed which is the largest car show in Northern Ireland, few photos below Past the 7yr mark with it now... toying with either looking at air-ride as I've recently moved to countryside with some terrible large bumps/holes etc or finally chatting to H-dev and going FI Comments welcome as always

Hey Guys, I need help from an exhaust systems expert 🙂 I'm fighting with an annoying hiss noise on 2500--3000 rpm. First I noticed it after I installed HFCs. Last year, I moved from HFCs to custom resonated test pipes and in addition, I installed performance headers and an ARK cat-back exhaust system. The sound is amazing except for the hissing noise. 2005, engine DE.

It rather depends on how bad the corrosion is. If you're lucky (or catch it quick enough) the moisture will have got under the paint rusting the metal underneath, but it will only be surface rust with no real detriment to the metal. If that's the case you can strip the paint and surface rust off the affected areas (emery flap wheel in drill works well). If the metal looks OK with no holes or deep pitting then you can treat any residual surface rust with a rust stabiliser and then paint. I'd recommend using etch primer. If you do find any holes or deep pits that are about to become holes (or do become holes when you poke them with a screwdriver) then it's a welding job. You can't tell just how bad things really are until you get the paint off, and it you're lucky it might not be as bad as it looks. I recently repaired the rear wheel arch on a Range Rover that was bubbling up so badly I was fully expecting to end up with a hole, but the metal was actually totally solid. Hopefully you'll find the same and only need a paint repair.

hi all I'm having a long winded nightmare with my 2005 DE, 3 weeks ago dash rev gauge decided not to work and all warning lights started flashing, also wipers stopped working this slowly fixed itself but the starting and engine and traction warning lights have stayed on along with struggling to start. i took it the garage that reset the ECU and found that fault for the throttle body, after waiting 2 weeks for get a new OEM one and fitted, I'm back to a car that struggles to start and the 2 warning lights on. plus know when i let off throttle the car randomly holds at 1500 RPM for a second. any advise would be much appreciated as i don't really want to keep straining to car to start! thanks Tom

Mine had a loose negative battery lead as the Kwik Fit battery terminal wasn't quite big enough

Thanks for the replies chaps. Removed the clutch start switch (what a **** of a job!) and switch seems to be working fine. Made up a link lead anyway and still won't start. Will give the battery connections a check. Other than that I'm thinking maybe sticking starter solenoid - though if that was the problem I can't see why it wouldn't start yesterday but then it would.

Same thing with mine just after buying, all lights on the dash would light but no crank, turn ignition off, back on & it would start up. My problem was a loose battery cable connection. Nipped it up & never had an issue since.

1. andy James AJ07 ZZZ Paid 2. Stevenholtmufc S24 DWV Paid 3. Buster V80BSV Paid 4. Humpy - VO10UZA Paid 5. Spicknuts: D17 NGG (Paid) 6. Kayleigh - K23 XCC (paid) 7. SHEZZA - B9 MAS (paid) 8. Rhysos - R23MYR (paid) 9. Jamah_zed - EY54 XPK (Paid) 10.SW66TTT - CS Z370 (paid)

Both come with GPS and wireless connectivity to a smart phone within range regardless. There are LTE and cheaper non-LTE versions - the former includes remote access (with a sim, as you say) and that is £4 for 40GB per month through Vodafone Smart sim offered via BlackVue, but is compatible with other data sims too. The latter allows for "Always-On 4G" with optional CM100GLTE which comes with the same £4, 40GB / month sim and can be retorfitted at any point. it's also compatible with data SIM cards from "all leading network providers" so the monthly charge is dependent on whatever sim you end up using. There is a limited free version of "BlackVue Cloud" available but the details, subscription costs and options are all detailed here: https://blackvue.co.uk/what-is-blackvue-cloud/

Yes, just bypass the switch and see how it goes.

Thanks for the reply. Car started fine first thing this morning and again when I came home for dinner, but won't start again now. I suppose it's possible to make a link lead to bypass the switch and see if that makes any difference.

1. andy James AJ07 ZZZ Paid 2. Stevenholtmufc S24 DWV Paid 3. Buster V80BSV Paid 4. Humpy - VO10UZA Paid 5. Spicknuts: D17 NGG (Paid) 6. Kayleigh - K23 XCC (paid) 7. SHEZZA - B9 MAS (paid) 8. Rhysos - R23MYR (paid) 9. Jamah_zed - EY54 XPK (Paid)

Nice one 😁

Can you access it remotely away from the car? Assuming it has a sim or something that allows basic network connectivity or gps...mac address etc a bit like go pro? Is that subscription based?

28:10 Never seen so much interest on a Z..GT Edition....Must be the location. "Up Norf". Tbf when i traded mine i put the price at £11,000 and ppl were literally begging on the phone to not sell..😂.

Phenomenal day out 😁

They do have an app.

Replace the pedal switch.

They come in pairs, 4k and im not sure if they have an app. Possibly extra that.

Have now rigged up the starter relay to a battery charger and meter and found that seems to be working OK. Then refitted the relay and thought I'd give it a try for the hell of it and it started fine. So... will have to see what it does tomorrow.

Just parked car up at dinnertime, and when I came to start it up again it wouldn't. Just not turning over at all, though all other electrical circuits seem fine and it's showing 12V on battery. Have checked starter signal fuse and that's OK. Pressed plunger on clutch pedal postion switch in by hand, made no difference. Tried spanner on crank pulley and engine turns fine, so not that either. It's like the starter isn't getting any power at all. Could be starter relay so I'll see if I can check that next, but wondered of anyone else has any ideas. Car has always started straight away before so long as the battery is charged (there is a parasitic drain I can't find that runs it down if stood long enough - which it hasn't been lately) so this came out of the blue. No fault code reader, so can't check anything there, but there weren't any check engine lights or anything like that showing when I drove it home. Any suggestions gratefully received.