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Hey there folk! So here it all goes... As you might have seen from the intro duction, i have an old 1981 Volvo 242 dl that i am restoring into some kinda restomod fun haver street car that i can hoot around whenever i get fed up of my daily whatever it is at that time. Little backstory... I always loved Volvos, especially the old bricks, even when i lived back home in Lithuania, always fancied one as there were plenty of them in turbo guise, but never had a chance to do it. When i already lived in the UK, i boughta volvo 240 saloon and swapped in a good old turbo redblock into it, with some more supporting mods and so on and had arounds 270bhp in it, that worked well and lasted a while... I've done some hillclimbs in it, went santa pod a few times and had a really good time. Also, went to Lithuania with a few friends back in 2014... Then the 242 came along, which i have never thought i will eveer be able to own... Considering Volvo has sold only 5 242 GT's in the uk... There's probably around 30 ish cars in the UK now from allover the world... The car got imported into Lithuania (where i am from originally) in 1999, and lived there for a bit, where the owner did some little rallying in it and some other car stuff. Then in 2002 the MOT finished so it got parked up in a damp garage and left til i bought it and got it brought up to the UK in 2015... The idea is to adapt the whole rear subframe in the car so i can switch from a solid axle into an independent rear, so i can set up the geometry however i fancy so i have all the grip and allignment. I am plannting to use the whole rear and also the gearbox too, most likely a CD009 as it can take all the power i want in the car, as per plan. As far as i know the 242 (or any volvo 240) is exactly mil to a mil as the 350z inbetween the axles, so that's why it sould work (Not as it usually work when you do it lol)... I want the car to be a fully legal street car with some creature comforts and so on, but it will have a little roll cage just in case, and it will be fully seam welded to add to the chassis strenght. So far i have stripped the car all down to bare shell, while i lived in Chepstow and had a garage in theend of the garden, and also, i started cutting and repairing the rust... I have cut some parts of the front end/chasis rail and inner arch and replaced with some good offcuts off a newer car and so on, and attacked some other rust, and then, the inevitable happened and we got evicted from the property as the landlady has sold the house... Ah well, then the 242 got moved to a container where it lived for 2 years or so... While i was in the garage at my house I started doing some youtube videos out of boredome, as it was that flu season that noone wants to talk about any more... So here it is... I'll be interested to see some measurements of the rear suspension and also maybe have a chance to have a look at how it is all mounted in the rear as i will need to make it work with what i have on the 242 to adapt the subframe and shocks... Cheers for having a looksie! ADam

Did you ever get one sorted mate? I think my drivers side actuator has gone aswell so I’m on the look out for one

Welcome. Great choice. I've had my 2005 roadster for more than ten years. Learned a few things along the way.

Still looking for 1 or 2. I'll PM you now.

Hi, My driver side hid headlight has gone out, however when I put my main beam on the sidelight comes on instead. When on sidelights the sidelight stays on also. I replaced the main bulb and no luck, so I was wondering if anyone else has ran into this issue and has figured it out? Thanks

Cheers Andy. Just need this weather to improve then I can do more than look at it 🙄

Hi and welcome along. Very nice looking car you have there.

Surprised someone have bought your coilovers

Hi a welcome 😁

I had flu over xmas and the car has sat untouched for a month, so decided to set to on the airlift and fit the front. Very easy to fit. I did ponder airline route for a while; there are quite a few videos on YouTube showing people routing then under the car, and one guy routing through the car, but very little detail. I decided to drill through the footwells in the corner, fit grommets and route behind the liners and into the car. Seems safer to me and a straight run from bags to valve. Very pleased with how to came out and I won't have to mess around getting then over and under and around the rear subframe. I'm planning to set about the rears next weekend. Photo if it helps anyone in the future.

Bump... £500 to a forum member if anyone wants them (£50 for the bush kit if taken together)

That time of the year! Another successful TAS in Japan, so here is the usual photo dump for you guys! ❤️ with Kei Miura-san from Tra Kyoto / Rocket Bunny / Pandem Japan with Mad Mike with Kay - TORQEN's Head of Operations Japan and Sung Kang. with Nana from Result Japan. with Kay from TORQEN and Masumi from Aimgain International. with M-Sports team with Ken Nomura / Nomuken from URAS. with Hiromasa from Vertex Japan with Monster Sport team with Kay and Hironao Yokomaku-san from VeilSide with Kay and Izumori-san from OS Giken Japan with Kay, Ichihara-san and Kashikuma-san from TRUST / GReddy Japan.

Can't see any signs of carbon or am I missing something?

Hi mate, I've also got a black GT4, had it since 2018. Still love the car. Any questions just ask 👍.

And I guess you work for them. Reads like an advert not an honest recommendation.

Congratulations on your new acquisition....... quite a rare find these GT4s. Your smile will be even bigger when the roads are warmer and dryer😉.

While you are in there, make sure your push pull cable is not broken where it mounts to the latch. Check tension by manually triggering the latch release actuator and verify the micro switch under the latch is being depressed. If the cable piece where the tabs are is broken it will not have the proper tension to push the micro switch down.

Hi all Does anyone know places that sell sill repair panels. Need the rear piece from the door edge back to the arch both sides. Can only find full panels for crazy money.

I swapped the stock steering wheel for a carbon fiber steering wheel from TTD Craft. The quality honestly exceeded my expectations — clean carbon weave, solid grip, and it fits perfectly with no issues during install. After driving with it for a bit, the wheel feels great, especially during spirited driving. It makes the interior feel more modern without changing the character of the car. I used a discount code ttdcraft03 when ordering, which helped a little on the price. Overall, I’m happy with the upgrade. Thought this might be useful for other 370Z owners considering a steering wheel swap.