Parts ordered -- Curious what you think..

[Chromatic]

Note: As usual I've posted this on another popular American forum and the responses just aren't that helpful or spiteful. You guys are always helpful.

 

** The reason for spending the big bucks on a new OEM Flywheel is cause I can't stand any new noises, rattles, etc.. and EVERY aftermarket flywheel has some level of noise under 2000-2500 RPM when driving.. -- (The OEM one doesn't.. bottom line.. sure all of our cars make noise sitting still with the clutch released.. but the stock flywheel doesn't when you start driving! -- there is no getting around that. So I'm going to spend the $900 on the new OEM flywheel. (If you are initially wondering why I want to go OEM with the flywheel)

 

I know what I want and am going to do -- Which is buy a brand new OEM Dualmass flywheel for my 2008 350z to go with some Stage 1 (or 2) Aftermarket clutch (just cause that's cheaper than OEM AND better..). I am also replacing the Master and Slave cylinders (with HD units) .. adding stainless steel line,.. and that sort of thing to beef up the reliability of the system.

 

I need you guys to try and help with links and/or names of specific clutches that will pair with the OEM flywheel on my 2008 350Z (As far as I understand it.. all of them will except the odd super heavy duty clutches designed for massive horsepower.. I have 350hp at flywheel at best.. and am not going to be adding anything substantially more.. so I don't need a clutch pedal that is a leg workout, but a slightly better than OEM.. sure!

 

I hope you guys get the gist of my goal here.

 

(Here is what I posted on the other forum,.. I know it's lengthy, sorry.)

 

(Aftermarket Clutch Brand Recommendation to replace Stock OEM Clutch)

 

I've been talking with a few mechanics.. and the latest one said I should go with a JWT Clutch and JWT Flywheel..

 

However, I can't stand any rattles , jutter, etc.. And I know all flywheels besides the OEM Stock flywheel on this 2008 350Z will cause some level of increased noise/extra noise under load when driving at or below 2000-2500 rpm (which I am in quite often in normal driving).

 

So I'm going to buy and use a brand new Dual mass OEM Nissan Flywheel for $867..

 

I just can't figure out the best aftermarket clutch to pair with it?

 

I have mods, but not FI.. so it doesn't need to be any stronger , really, than OEM. But Aftermarket clutches are more durable and cheaper than the OEM clutch.

 

So if you were going to put an OEM Flywheel with an aftermarket Clutch in your 2007/2008 350Z, what would you choose for the clutch?

 

I'd like "roughly" the same pedal pressure (a little more is ok.. but I don't need some Stage 4 700 horsepower clutch/plate )

 

I'll keep it that simple, as the mechanic is calling me tomorrow and I need to get everything straight in my mind when talking with him.

 

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Read on if you don't mind giving more recommendations:

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(Hydraulics - Slave/Master Cylinders, etc)

 

I will also be replacing the Slave cylinder in this 2008 350Z, and the Master Cylinder (for good measure and because the Slave is toast now).

 

Is there just one HD Brand for these? If there is more than one,.. Which brand of HD Slave Cylinder would you go for?

 

Which brand of HD Master Cylinder would you go for?

 

Since they are cheap,.. stainless steel lines aren't a bad idea -- Are they all the same, or is there a specific brand/company you would recommend? And, can I get the stainless new lines for both the Slave and Master.. or?

 

Links or names will be a great help!

 

(Anything else while I'm at it.. )

 

I've read that replacing the Roller Bearing isn't a bad idea with a better one since it's so cheap:

 

One I've found: Nismo Roller Bearing Pilot Bushing - 07-08 Nissan 350z - $18

 

Stainless Steel Clutch Line: Z1 350Z / G35 Stainless Steel Clutch Line

 

Example: http://www.z1motorsp...roducts_id=2206

 

Says it keeps the fluid from overheating,.. or having heat issues (which I have.. have had them since I bought this last year when driving it at higher rpms a bit).

 

Also says helps with Pedal "feel". Point is, another "cheap" part..

 

Any particular Line you recommend over another?

 

(Done)

 

So am I missing anything for basically covering all my bases on parts expensive and inexpensive?

 

I'm basically just asking for brand advice,.. as I want to try to get the most reliable, same noise as the car currently has, no more, Clutch/tranny type of action.

 

I've done a ton of homework on this.. so I'm hoping maybe there is one, or a few brands on clutches that stand out as preferred,.. and for the HD Slave/Master cylinders I'm thinking there is only one brand for each?

 

It is going to be nice to have a car that I love actually not slip at all when I get on it and row through the gears.. and the pedal not start to feel weird after just 30 seconds of over 5k RPM shifting.

 

Thanks so much if you took the time to read any, or all of this!

[alexdax]

this is not an advice... just my setup

 

V3 vortech cosworth internals with tons of mods... clutch kit all OEM except for the disc ferodo, i used the OEM disk but built with organic ferodo

 

all doing great and i´m happy

 

no track days just street but allways on the red line side.

:teeth: :teeth:

Edited December 26, 2014 by alexdax

[Chromatic]

Thanks Alexdax.. I was hoping more people would chime in with some brands that are clear cut choices for quality.

 

Will any regular aftermarket clutch work fine with the stock flywheel? (I'm talking the stage 1 .. street clutches) ?

 

I know you guys are in the UK.. but many aftermarket parts we share

[GT4 Zed]

If you really like the OEM setup why not just buy the same thing again. ie both DMF and OEM organic clutch. it will still be cheaper getting it from the states.

Using braided clutch line will make the clutch more direct/responsive as there is no slack in the system. This is what we perceive as improved feel but it will change ever so slightly that OEM character you are looking for though not as much as going with a HD clutch or SMF.

The same caution for the nismo roller bearing. It would likely increase noise within the system as I suspect it did on mine.

 

I have a JWT HD +500lbft rated clutch with SMF, CZP braided lines, motul RBF 660, Nismo roller bearing, chromoly pivot ball and while it can handle everything I've thrown at it in the last 2.5yrs including being supercharged, it is evil!

 

The rattle/ chatter is louder than similar setups I've heard (excluding the roller bearing so not sure if this is the cause). It's also very grabby and there's only a smaller engagement window which if you miss stalls the car or results in terrible judder and bounce. I'm used to it so not a problem except in reverse sometimes. Trust me I'm hardcore but I really don't like this about my zed and I've been trying hard to kill this clutch so I can go with a multi disc setup like exedy, OS Gikken or Carbonetics but it doesn't even want to die.

 

I have considered the willwood master cylinder upgrade setup and will do this when swapping engines but purely to make bleeding the clutch easier and secondarily to further improve feel.

 

Doing this together with the Zspeed CSC upgrade should beef up your clutch hydraulic system and improve engagement and feel without adding noise as the OEM CSC is known to fail frequently.

 

https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=4592

 

https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=8843

 

But as already said, since you have so many concerns, you should replace everything like for like OEM and you can go with the stage 1 clutch for a bit more longevity. It will stiffen the pedal presure a bit but for me it's a good thing.

 

- OEM or stg 1 organic clutch(exedy, JWT, ACT etc any will work.

- OEM DMF

- OEM throwout bearing

- SS clutch line. (Any branded one is good except eBay knockoffs)

- OEM MS or willwood upgrade

- OEM CSC or Zspeed upgrade.

 

Just remember that you are asking people's opinion on a very subjective matter so be prepared for a varied response and the only thing you can do is to have a drive in as many setups if possible or minimise the risk by making the smallest amount of changes. Nissan has already done the leg work for a GT cruiser.

 

 

 

 

 

 

BTW there is some slight chatter/rattle in the OEM setup :wink:

Hard to hear when driving but if you are stood out dude its there.ðŸ‘

Edited December 27, 2014 by GT4 Zed

[Ekona]

If you like OEM, stay OEM. It's the only way to guarantee you don't change the car.

 

Other than that, the good man above me has it all covered.

[Jetpilot]

Although not on a 350 i have tried all sorts of aftermarket clutches (Exedy, Os Giken twin and single plate designs, hks etc) designed to handle more hp but there is always a trade off, they are all grabby and noisey, not so bad when directly pulling away but if your in slow moving traffic or reversing the car, they are not pleasant. Sure you get used to it, a few more revs and engage, but not so easy to slip if your trying to just creep along, they are either on or off, i also found getting off the line quickly more tricky as the bite point was so precise, unless your just nailing it.

[ChrisB]

^^ What they said. Non OEM solid flys transmit vibration and make the drive train rattley / thrashy. Non OEM upgrade (eg stage 2 CC*) are grabby and a nightmare in stop-start traffic (impossible to feather smoothly). However, IMHO the benefits of non-OEM are there in normal or spirited driving, and possibly longevity. Attempting to remove all noise is slightly the tail wagging the dog with respect to performance upgrades - you have to live with the foibles.

 

Else if you want a quiet cruiser, stick with fully OEM**

 

* I speak from the stand point of owning Competition Clutch's 2100 stage 2 clutch and ST solid fly, Technafit stainless line and OEM replacement slave with RBF660 fluid, having previously been fully OEM. Apparently, masters rarely fail.

 

** Never owned a LUK DMF - can't comment there, but this is an alternate DMF.

[Chromatic]

I am staying OEM on the Flywheel -- instead of going aftermarket , because the Aftermarket flywheels are what drive people up the wall producing the most extra noise.

 

I am going with the following:

 

1) JWT Heavy Duty Clutch Kit .. Item# L3507-NCHR0-z33

 

1a) IPP Stainless Steel Clutch Line 07-08: NC-312- z33

 

1b) Nismo Roller Bearing Pilot Bushing 07-08: 32202-09500-z33

 

2) OEM 2008 350Z Flywheel --

 

3) HD Slave Cylinder (Zspeed)

 

4) HD Master Cylinder (Wilwood)

 

I really think my homework has paid off with this selection, and I won't be dissapointed and further my goal of making this clutch system reliable for years to come will happen.

 

I haven't decided on changing the gear oil or not.. advise it? If so.. what oils work well?

 

*Oh and GT4 Zed.. I imagine you have a non OEM flywheel setup,.. but yes, I know the Z's stock make noise.. mine does.. my Z32 did as well. I'm find with that. I just don't want noise under load at low RPMS. Which the stock setup doesn't do.. Ie: Driving 55mph in 6th gear will make some lash noise with a lightweight flywheel.. stock it does not. Make sense?

 

The idle clutch out rattle .. is there.. and will always be there.

Edited December 27, 2014 by Chromatic

[Chromatic]

Well the parts are ordered.. here's my invoice of what I thought was the best setup to throw together for the most reliable and "quiet" clutch setup since it has to be done:

 

 

I got a good deal on most of it.. I know it's a lot to spend, but the guy I buy everything from beats every other vendor when I give him their prices..

 

anyhow.. The "Heavy Duty Clutch is the JWT"

 

OEM Dual Mass Flywheel

 

Stainless Steel Clutch line

 

Zspeed Heavy Duty Concentric Slave Cylinder

 

Wilwood Heavy Duty Master Cylinder

 

I also thought it was a good idea to replace the Stock Pilot Bushing with a Nismo Roller Bearing, since as you see I got it for just $15. The Nismo Roller Bearing has as close to a zero percent chance of failure as you can get. So why not.

 

The good thing about the Concentric Slave Cylinders in the 07-09 Z's is the Clutch Throw Out Bearing is built into them.. so that (throw out bearing) is new as well.

 

What do you guys think of the setup?

 

I know it's nothing super special.. everything is aftermarket "performance" but the OEM Dual mass flywheel.. but nothing makes the car faster.. especially since I'm going with the OEM flywheel and not a lightweight flywheel. But my goal is to keep it quiet (as quiet as stock anyway) .. so I'm not expecting it to rev faster..

 

I am expecting a better pedal feel.. and better "grip" -- Right now .. and since I bought this car last year.. when I "got on it".. meaning I would rev it past 5-6,000 RPM and shift gears as fast as possible.. it would slip a little right after each gear change at such high RPM. That will be nice to have it grip right away again. Hopefully, given I don't drive this car like a maniac, (don't rag it) .. ,.. This clutch and other such parts will last me pretty much the life of the car (how long I am going to keep it).. Which will be 3-5 years or so likely.

 

Take care!

[GT4 Zed]

Oh boy you really like to be seen!

This is the 3 or 4th thread covering exactly the same thing and I recollect you had made the decision to go with the above in the last one, so I really do not understand the purpose of this thread!

Is it a querry? Sharing tech info? End user opinion? Or just to showing off your invoice? Or insecurity.

 

We would however be happy with your feedback after you have fitted and bedded the clutch for those members who want to keep things OEM like.

Edited December 30, 2014 by GT4 Zed

[AliveBoy]

I love you bennett

[Ekona]

I love you bennett

+1

[370Ad]

Ouch

 

Edit - Just realised its in dollars! I thought you spent almost £900 on a OEM Flywheel then.

Edited December 30, 2014 by 370Ad

[GT4 Zed]

I love you bennett

+1

 

It was either you or me Dan 😈😇!

[Ekona]

[Rock_Steady]

Ouch

[Neilp]

Chromatic,

 

Please refrain from opening multiple threads for the same discussion. I've merged the threads & tidied up.

 

Play nice gents!

[Chromatic]

Ouch

 

Edit - Just realised its in dollars! I thought you spent almost £900 on a OEM Flywheel then.

 

Yes.. it's still stupid expensive for the that flywheel. That's a "good deal" .. All those parts were had at a discount. And remember it may be dollars, but we get paid in them here as well