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Precious got a supercharger


ChrisB

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Woahh.. After a seemingly faultless test drive yesterday, Precious was a little reticent about going to work this morning..

 

Start-up small belt squeak (went away) - I will have tighten the belt a touch.. But then CEL light came on. I raced indoors to get the OM500 and P1065 - ECM backup power supply - popped up ... :scare:

 

Reset OK and everything seemed hunky dory after that. So I gingerly drove in (32 miles cruising) ... and we made it fine..

 

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Hopefully, with the battery off and on lots of times, it's just a spurious effect. If not, there may be a bit of a disturbed wiring effect going on - I'm amazed after the epic amount of engineering that the rest of it is all working so well so far!

 

:thumbs: with a little :scare:

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I guess driving 32 miles with your fingers crossed wasn't too easy. Got an inkling there will be a strong feeling of anticipation when you do the return journey home later on. :drive1

Edited by cmck13
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She purred like a kitten on the way home - cruise at 2750-3000 RPM, good temps and pressures, no lumps in torque or noises (all be it we're still NA), all good. For a moment there I was tempted to see this as a trigger to splurge on a lovely Syvecs S350, but my JDM ECM wants to stick with me a lot longer it seems :)

 

Under the bonnet, everything is still looking good, and solid. I'm confident for the next steps - fueling.

 

I will be carrying my code reader around for a while now though, just in case (probably a pre-requisite for modified anyway) :lol::thumbs:

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So, it turns out there is a monumentally obvious way to overcome the 5 degrees of interference - turn the bracket upside down :doh:

 

There are a couple of obvious places to fit with the different bracket types - plan A down by the coolant tank, and plan B down the cleavage in the fans (we all like a bit of cleavage :thumbs: ) although plan B would mean driiling into the shiny new mishi rad shroud - I'm not ready for that kind change yet.

 

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Although prettier, the cleavage option is a bit less serviceable compared to the down south option - the can is easily accessable when the tray is off - draining is by a hex plug. Obviously the BPV needs protecting from drips, but a simple shallow pan to drain into would do at oil change time.

 

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I have a carbuilder delivery inbound for the other plumbing, so I'll test this temporary fit before pinning the pipes down further, for the next few hundred commute miles (till Friday :lol: ).

 

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Considering where the vapours have been, the fan exhaust is not going to cause any adverse heating I would have thought?

 

:thumbs:

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I thought you'd like the brass, aluminium and stainless steel fittings too ;):lol:

 

The clear bit is for up and downstream - I used a 12mm alu valve, but had to come down from 15 to 10 between CC pipes and pcv, so 12mm valve not 10mm aided stepping.

 

Next up will be vacuum/boost referencing. Blue 5mm id silicone for that. :)

Edited by ChrisB
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Whilst waiting for the next delivery of minor bits to turn up, not much has happened since last week's flurry. :tumbleweed: in fact. And with the rain yesterday, it was wet enough to :snorkel:

 

I spend time reading the Nissan service manual for fun (I'm that sad), and have stumbled on a rather nice little diagnostic trick - you can get the BCM to issue a command over the CAN bus to the IPDM to initiate a self test mode: it's in section PG, page 34. It makes demister, lights, wipers, ac clutch and fans come on in sequence - cool.

 

(To initiate 'Auto Active Test'': open driver door, wind down window a bit, ignition on - properly on not acc position - and within 20sec press door jam switch 10 times, then ignition off and back on within 10 sec)

 

Oh and the clear pipes aren't staying - when hot, they squish too much for my liking under vacuum, so I have some proper hose on it's way.

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Oh and the clear pipes aren't staying - when hot, they squish too much for my liking under vacuum, so I have some proper hose on it's way.

Oh well, probably for the best. I've got Gates reinforced fuel/oil hose for mine, ..can't see through it but is obviously designed for the job. ;)

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And today's mod is...

 

289bbc234690d2a2d39b1f5cb9b74281.jpg

 

...although my hoses won't thank me for it. It was this small (JDM) Mishi or the Cusco.

 

It has a cute little temp gauge in it - for yet another temp measurement. The theory with 1.3 bar pressurisation is that at the top end of cooling temp range, a bit of extra pressure means higher boiling temp - so lessens the likelyhood of formation of tiny localised bubbles (which are much worse conductors of heat than liquid), so keeping hot parts uniformly cooled, and preventing pump cavitation (both things are very nasty). The cooling system should normally be efficient enough to never reach boiling point - but this adds a bit of headroom. When circuit pressure testing, the leak test is 1.57 bar - so well above the increased bypass pressure, so in theory, still safe. I might replace the large diameter hose clamps though, just for OCD ;)

 

Oh and did I mention it had a cute little temp gauge on it? :lol:

 

:thumbs:

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After some excellent salesmanship from our friend Tarmac :lol: I've decided on a pair of Fast Intentions VQDE resonated 300 cell HFC pipes in non-polished stainless (2.5" T304) each with an extra sensor bung welded in, followed by a Stillen Y pipe.

 

It would be silly to keep stock cats, and I had a look at my Y the other day - crusty..

 

http://www.fastintentions.com/product_info.php?cPath=41_45_51_52&products_id=104

 

I am keeping stock headers (just NO! to the thought of changing those on the drive!) and followed by my existing and perfectly nice Legalis R stainless back box.

 

Yummy :thumbs:

 

There might be a bit of a wait though (built to order and up to 6wks lead time) :(

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Great decision I think Chris ~ tbh I'd have thought your exhaust was all sorted prior to getting the supercharger kit but at least it will be now. ;)

 

The manifolds are probably the most restrictive part of our exhaust systems but also the biggest PITA to change. I was going to sort mine eventually but was thinking it would be much easier to do during a clutch change, ...if & when it needs one.

 

Like the Mishimoto rad cap too, I bought the small black one they sell to replace my fake Nismo one. Didn't fancy risking the cooling system for the sake of a fake rad cap. :lol::D

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Ah-harr me hearties.. The wind's gone out of me sails a bit recently, but I have been fiddling and fettling with loom routing (again) and making a stab at measuring up my vacuum reference.

 

Firstly, the replacement union turned up from AAM (yay!) - and it now has perfect thread fitment. One bizarre thing though is that the relief hole has shrunk dramatically... without more information, I have absolutely no idea if this is a good thing :doh:

 

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However, apart from the still being manufactured HFCs and Y pipe (which I might wimp out and get fitted by a garage - oh the shame of it - simultaneously with the replacement Competition Clutch and ST fly), not a huge amount remains to do pre-tune.. only a small, very valuable box worth..

 

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And a red plenum Wasso spacer tied down with either red or blue bolts. My dream future theme has lost its predicted colour coordination a bit - silver, red but now also blue (and black and aluminum and brassy) are the order of the day.

 

However, vacuum is proceeding slowly. I am going to use the rubber nipple plenum tap. I've also added a check valve in the EVAP line as this is another vacuum tap via an ECU controlled solenoid that pulses open when the car is moving at certain revs (at rest it is closed).

 

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I will be adding a MAP sensor too, just for nerdy giggles.

 

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Although the BOV line will need clearing from the new oil hoses

 

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The next update will be mucking around with the fuel bucket, and drilling a few holes to mount gadgets.

 

:tumbleweed::bunny::lol:

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