Jump to content

Precious got a supercharger


ChrisB

Recommended Posts

:lol:B) I can't wait to get back to it - what with work, weather etc. :tumbleweed:

 

I have been a very good boy trundling around at under 3000 RPM and light throttle only with my car in its in-between state though*. 31MPG tank average (usually 26-27 efficient). I have the naughty light set to 3200 now - it starts to flash at 2800 to remind me :lol: If i carry on like this the S/C will pay for itself in petrol savings. Well maybe not :doh::lol:

 

*The purpose of self imposed gentle driving is that, although this is a centrifugal effect supercharger, and as such lets air flow unrestricted along its vanes when they are not moving (there is no compression from squeezing when operating - it increases flow by accelerating air radially outwards by converting angular vane motion into linear air motion and thus causing it to boost through back pressure).. there is still a large hunk of junk (S/C, IC, pipes etc) where normally the whole atmosphere would once have been..

 

I am tempted when the temperature gets low (for those that don't know, Vortech says do not operate the S/C at below 25F ie -4C as the internal tolerances become too tight and can lunch it), I might take the gilmer belt off again in the winter and run slowly - the ID725 injectors will be installed by then, but the tuning map will also be in - so should continue to cope N/A after the full install (as others have found).

 

My take on the vexed catch can PCV debate is that in my application - much of it road - there will be significant idling periods. There are pro's and con's in all of the alternate set-ups. I don't think fully open vented is for me as oil fumes got on my t1ts in my previous car (twin turbo subaru - cam covers always weeped onto the exhaust - more stinky than decats ;) ). Additionally, metered vacuum from the plenum via the PCV valve (and can) allows the crank case to be swept by fresh air. There is only a Bernoulli effect pressure drop at the atmospheric intake, so I feel that would be insufficient in low activity situations (even though blow by is less) to properly clean the gas, compared to the giant reciprocating suck potential of the engine. If the gas build up were the only thing pushing gas out, I recon that would lead to stagnation and relatively more concentrated / harder to filter emissions. In high activity situations (WOT/boost etc) the intake flow/suck is much more powerful and should cope.

 

Obviously all plenum or vacuum taps must now be protected from boost, so all non-reference ancillaries including PCV (and EVAP) are protected with check valves now. I have put my can - partly by design, partly by necessity (cos its big), down low to help oil collection by being a low point. This means vapour lines naturally drain back into it, helping. The cam cover outlet is too high up and vacant to have to worry about potential syphoning as far as I can tell so far.

 

I use the Vortech plumbing to pre-S/C intake on the breather side. I might get another can - that can operate in both directions - ie just a cheapish void type (the Mishi one is designed to flow one way) to go in line with the intake side breather pipe. I don't fancy the idea of fumes clogging up the S/C hardware - the intercooler would be an extremely efficient catch can with all that cooled surface area :doh:

Two cans - my car would then be a twin-can LOL..

 

But I digress..

 

In other developments, I have purchased the GT MAF and positively arctic 3 step cooler HKS plugs as recommended by Mark at Abbey, who is to be my tuner. The down side of that is I now have 3 sets of various temp brand new plugs lying around :lol: It's only money though :drunk:

 

Oh I've run out of smilies - so : thumbs : : lol :

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had a frizzle with the FRS. Phew. There is not much particularly hard about it, but it's fiddly in places (the fuel bucket was almost thrown out the window at one point - and I normally have the patience of a saint), very stinky - the fuel bucket seems to dribble fuel even when it should be long since empty and generally a bit 'are we there yet'. There are also lots of sheet metal panels with sharp edges involved.. I used a combination of the CJM online instructions and the AAM generic pdf.

 

First up - here is where the petrol is kept. I have used boot laces so as to not drop pipes back in the tank. The bucket has to be wiggled out and the siphon around the back must be detached. Fiddly and petrolly (and the tank cover is sharp!)

 

60b4e9aee3910cf8f66af64e10d1fc7e.jpg

 

Got indoors and opened the bucket. Rather grubby actually. Must be that cheap Shell V Power Nitro+ I use all the time :wacko:

 

4fc1be4879f6c5eeba769043539852ab.jpg

 

For the drilling of the bulkhead elbow, you must sight it first

 

6ee07b1dae5b51db5cd103caef0cbe1d.jpg

 

This involves a bright light

 

999d2091cc2201fd84b21704f83c2d34.jpg

 

Having drilled a hole using increasing large bits (pilot 2mm upto 10mm) the webbing needs to be filed down (sensible people use dremels for this - I just used a round file)

 

1ec0b6ae207d7c24a08e51b18d69e233.jpg

 

Hours and hours later, check it out

 

26123bff87589aa0626ff60ee2987e6b.jpg

 

Although it's as good as I could make it, the inner surface is a little uneven, so I slipped a sneaky O ring in-between the nylon spacer and the hole. I like the improved aluminium collar in this kit. The sequence I chose for fittings is this.

 

8d6e9a7cf7f9e2e2f19c042495f4af68.jpg

 

And all mounted. Lovely, it's going well..

 

1eb4798a84f1db486a2e4b552f24090d.jpg

 

Then Sparticus' brother (Crixus) decided to try and climb out the top window. Too fat - use the cat flap, fool!

 

ce002b2884a0bfd1dc71ea5fa164eed5.jpg

 

Next thing are the regulator mods. I see how this works now - as it replaces the regulator, it blanks off the hole that allows fuel in. This means fuel can only go out of the outlet and unltimately back via the return. The plug is a bit of a pig to get back in - the stock O rings fit better on the originals than the new plug - and you think 'that'll never go in there!'

 

da84e4b5bfa7cdd7c55010c26d99cb4c.jpg

 

but eventually (after a bit of swearing) - in she pops.. However. I recently caused a bit of storm in a tea cup by requesting a union that fits correctly. Well I can see why they did the bodge - you need a bit of stand off from the plastic to get the pipe on. Ingeniously or bodgily - you decide - the cross threaded black (NPT) union does just that. The correct solution of course would be to manufacture the plug correctly in the first place with a stop instead of threading all the way to the end. :rant: I'm over it now. I eventually used the old black union instead and cross threaded it as AAM intended :doh:

 

a28864fe961caa851edd0848011e1822.jpg

 

So, on to the pump. Just swap a few bits over

 

37ffd40802a954618e26fea2f10c201e.jpg

 

And installed. The small metal clip was a fiddly so and so though - just had to get creative with many screwdrivers at once. I think the plastic ridges on the pump have changed since the instructions were written. They are now just bars not bars with right-angles. I found fitting a lot more smooth by removing all 4 (not 3) which means the plastic housing clip fits back on much smoother (and level) - and didn't need the modification that the CJM instructions suggested. All nice and tight.

 

bc5f2224e8f72e5d7bd7ffca7632e422.jpg

 

OK so still going well. Onto the 'cheap plastic - don't break it as it will be ruined and not replaceable swirl jet'. It didn't want to come out. I used 3 mini screw drivers as spacers and a larger screwdriver as a lever.. creak, creak.. moving.. creak.. creak.. SNAP. Pants.

 

699b88a2d96201a80062054ac8f44f5f.jpg

 

What else could I do except press on? The suggestion for Walbro 255 is 0.070". Well I have metric 1.5 and 2mm. I drilled to 2mm as the next size pump (340) suggest a much larger bit size by proportion - so a little error is probably not going to make a vast amount of difference. Better to be slightly large in this case as it affects idle pressure (which goes high if this hole is too small).

 

However, it all fitted back nice and tight. The plastic hasps were really weak - so loss of one doesn't seem that tragic. Time will tell.

 

d95e349b0dd9c9c0e597d7a4d37415fc.jpg

 

Squashing it all back in the bucket is also a bit testing - the clever bend in the pipe makes fitting worse it seems! Many attempts later and.. (and probably a few more after this pic to be honest)

 

c2304f2817299e0fd98478c37f35fdbe.jpg

 

All installed back. Lots of petrol spilled equals very clean bucket. I had a scare as I had a petrol flood. I thought the return union was piddling fuel every where - :scare: oh no.. it's all been for nothing! - but then I realised the fuel was coming out of the union hole itself. Put a finger on that, and fuel piddled out of the fuel outlet hole.. Moral of this is run your tank to near empty first! A tank at 3/4 is asking for trouble. Get the pipes back on quick.

 

I probably shouldn't mention this but I lost my spare tank O ring somewhere along the line, and managed to dip the old one in the tank. Situation retrieval measures were required... It's not leaking, but I will order another new tank seal I think.

 

b5c58aab7aa69cf74bffe2ff2916922d.jpg

 

Now, since the bucket is connected up and likes to splurge fuel down it's pipes, the regulator fitting is a must. After some prep to get to behind the mounting places so that I de-burr the drillings and spray some etch-weld primer on the exposed metal.. I am going off Dynax a bit - very brown and messy looking in the battery area (although water sealed)

 

ba586711546cfe3f8d0af09b4905fa46.jpg

 

...holes were drilled to mount the regulator. This was another fiddly thing. Looks easy. Wasn't. It probably is easy if you remove the plenum etc when taking the fuel rails off, but I didn't. I just disconnected the EVAP solenoid (why is it such a giant bracket for such a small device?). Ages spent fiddling. I also mounted the new MAP sensor in the brake/clutch room.

 

eaae47bd9912561820aff4744c4876e4.jpg

 

And finally back together.

 

66ec056f735dcf06da610ad4937659dd.jpg

 

I reduced the setting on the regulator from 60psi as it came to approx 51psi as this NA factory. I can now road test the FRS over the next few commutes and check for leaks. So far everything is nice and tight and leak free. I tested the pressure regularity holding by squirting the throttle and giving her a few revs (as you do in the street when testing engines :lol: ) and resting my camera to take a little test vid. It seemed nice and constant :thumbs:

 

I couldn't resist a little try with the S/C too. I connected the gilmer belt and got my first taste of whine.. quieter (better) than I was expecting (V3 SCi) but noticeable - perfect. I took the belt back off again for obvious reasons though.

 

One step closer. Can't wait for the skin on my poor fingers to grow back :thumbs:

Edited by ChrisB
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

:blush:

 

Yes.. I made transatlantic waves when none were eventually needed - however their engineer did look at my email and look at the union specification - and they admitted that the pipe/plug threads were indeed AN where the union were mixed, and he also thought it was wrong. Obviously the reason for the 'clever' idea to make a pipe standoff by cross threading the union and plug was forgotten in the mists of time.

 

But I'm over it :lol:

 

I don't appear to be showing any of the tank/fuel pipe leaking issues of earlier generations of kit. Happy. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't appear to be showing any of the tank/fuel pipe leaking issues of earlier generations of kit. Happy. :lol:

Good news then. :teeth:

 

I've just put the black union back in the kit now along with the blue one so H.Dev can make their own decision on which to use. :D;)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't appear to be showing any of the tank/fuel pipe leaking issues of earlier generations of kit. Happy. :lol:

Good news then. :teeth:

 

I've just put the black union back in the kit now along with the blue one so H.Dev can make their own decision on which to use. :D;)

 

Me too :thumbs: , Hey Chris that's an absolutely gritty performance your doing there, makes my head hurt just reading it. Well done should get a medal for tenacity.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Well it's been all quiet on the Western front with my Z campaign of late.

 

No time off work, waiting for deliveries and also I've been having lots of first world issues with a totally unresponsive Photobucket account for a while. Slow login, "account investigated for maintenance" messages, >10min refresh, blah-de-blah. Thankfully PB in mobile form is starting to work better again. Free stuff eh? :lol:

 

Anyway, enough of that, I can put in a quick update while waiting for Ocado to turn up - the ultimate defence against supermarket rage and door ding angst :thumbs:

 

..oh and these metal marvels turned up

 

b886c707cdb2cc8063dfd9a70e3ec800.jpg

 

I had a bit of an issue with a Stillen Y (Friday afternoon) flange though

 

3e98dd1803995e83267c7673abcf26a3.jpg

 

But application of file smoothed it off ok (excuse the lint)

 

f7c3cd76a7e8a015bcd4aad913f26271.jpg

 

The Fast Intention metal is beautifully machined stainless however

 

0989a484f1d231f2eb10627c847cc829.jpg

 

I will look forward to having those fitted when the new clutch/fly (Competion Clutch kit 6072-2100 with ST fly) goes on. I will be using a local garage for the fitting (Japex if they see my emails ;) ) to avoid too much ball ache. Also, fitting locally will give me a running in grace period before the final tuning power madness.

 

So back to easy stuff, my JDM spec battery was getting a bit limp wristed, so I got a new on (Tab 068). Much bigger..

 

196993e07753d2dc36034e5fb7f5d463.jpg

 

but it still fits, although I will have to change the top retainer strap. Upside down is not a permanent fix, even though the new battery fits square in the tray

 

f3567d848c963bfafc76dbff5a4dc3ed.jpg

 

I also spent a reasonably pleasant couple of hours fixing a nagging rear drop links issue. When I changed roll bars last year, I discovered that the rear links had been done up by a gorilla. Nothing would budge the top flange-nut, and no socket tools, wrenches or spanners appeared to be the right length to apply sufficient torque.. I was too impatient to re-attack the nuts when I had the springs off for MeisterR fitting, so left the links as they were fine at the time. Over last winter, I got the creakiness starting so I decided to have another go. Queue brainwave - undo the hanger bolts then hacksaw the old links off. Easy peasy! On go the uprated links I bought last year. I tarted up the hanger a bit too

 

22824371f32f3a278d93288f3304035f.jpg

 

I get complaints though*. Daddy, why are you outside so much and not spending time with me? Did I do something wrong?

 

a43339c19a1a01e7f964c0d274aa39c1.jpg

 

*Not really. He's fine about it :thumbs::lol:

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol. He's a good dog. I'm glad your wife likes him :) He's (rescued) from Wales too believe it or not B) Not that he didn't like Wales or we abducted him - he loves it on trips there, he just didn't like the family he was a puppy with. We've had him since 9 months. He's now 11 years old.

 

Cats are 300 cell resonated stainless with 2 extra bungs. Shiny (but not unnecessarily so ;) ).

 

http://www.fastintentions.com/product_info.php?cPath=41_45_51_52&products_id=104

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

This should look awesome when prep'd, painted and fitted I reckon..

 

AF1F5218-7119-45F8-9862-6A639FF90BBA.jpg

 

I won the recent Tarmac bumper dibs for the replica V2 Nismo with carbon canards and mesh... it came in a huge cardboard box, very promptly via Paisley/TNT.

 

I only hope there is room for the oil cooler, as significant plastic nibbling was required to fit the old bumper back on. This has a wider gob on it though (so more options), so I might move the oil cooler anyway if it doesn't fit as the cooler's position is slightly sub-optimal due to warm air from it coupling with the intercooler flow (slightly).

 

Not today though. If only I could fit the rest of my car in my lounge :lol:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Chris black union elbow worked fine on mine. As you know took the lazy way out, had enough of bad backs lying on concrete floors over the years. Mike at Abbey Motorsport did the fitting while I was away in Holland for the last two weeks and I drove it back though the Dartford tunnel back up to Lincoln yesterday. Sounding like a 737 on its approach landing, not too much on the aggressive driving yet but gave it a bit on a couple of occasions yesterday. Mainly because I had a surreal dream the night before that I went to pick the car up from Abbey and drove it up the farm lane and on the top junction at the main road I span it around in a circle,weird really.

 

Funny though if you drive it too gentle you are lulled into thinking apart from the whine its not increased its BHP but when driven with a bit of urgency then you get the kick up you backside. I know most will want to know the figures but I haven't dissected them yet but I was happy that they kept them in the safe engine figures to around the 410 mark on a 04 plate.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congrats Jeff - so you are finished then :)

 

I am still chugging away, doing a bit at a time and testing by myself. I will however be having my clutch/fly/exhaust upgrades fitted for me next week - I baulk at doing those on low axle stands on a sloping drive chocked with bricks :scare: (I am in it for fun - not *that* hardcore). Then after a big list of small bits I hope to be blessed at Abbey too (see what I did there). I will be sticking to 3.33 to start with, so 400ish is the target. Glad to say that everything is working fine on my car too so far. No harm done :thumbs:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at mine and what you've done I think your in the safe zone, Mark clearly is the expert on the Dyno etc and giving you a safe working environment on the engine side. The print offs show a nicely balanced up take through the engine RPM's etc.

Got a fly wheel clutch to do next year, I will borrow a garage lift from from my mate for that,just remind me what clutch fly wheel did you get?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got a fly wheel clutch to do next year, I will borrow a garage lift from from my mate for that,just remind me what clutch fly wheel did you get?

 

On the clutch front, via Tarmac, a Competition Clutch 6072-2100 (kit with CRB, pilot bush, plates and alignment tool), Competition Clutch ST flywheel plus a Technafit braided line and via Clark Motorsport, an upgraded (chromoly) pivot ball pin and for good measure new slave. I will be using a spare bottle of Motul 660 left over from brake meddling.

 

My OEM clutch system currently works, but at 57k miles it is starting to feel quite squidgy (worse when hot) and slightly/fairly juddery (especially when cold) at times. So in for a (million) pennies,...

 

:thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I get complaints though*. Daddy, why are you outside so much and not spending time with me? Did I do something wrong?

 

a43339c19a1a01e7f964c0d274aa39c1.jpg

 

*Not really. He's fine about it :thumbs::lol:

 

Slightly off topic but he's a lovely looking dog :) Looks like my dog Jake's twin, hes a Jack Russel/Border Terrier cross.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Chris ~ Great looking front bumper. B) Just getting better & better mate. :yahoo:

 

 

@cmck13 ~ Congrats on getting yours all fitted & running. Great news and hope you're enjoying it. :thumbs:

 

Absolutely great,well worth it, got lots of spare parts now, not sure whether to sell or keep Ive no intention of selling the car though so I think a few things will go.

Out of interest the Gates belt that was used because of the smaller size pulley was the 79". I got an email reply from Vortech that going down one size to our pulley should have meant 791/4"? So thank God I got the right one for my set up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Chris ~ Great looking front bumper. B) Just getting better & better mate. :yahoo:

 

 

@cmck13 ~ Congrats on getting yours all fitted & running. Great news and hope you're enjoying it. :thumbs:

 

Absolutely great,well worth it, got lots of spare parts now, not sure whether to sell or keep Ive no intention of selling the car though so I think a few things will go.

Out of interest the Gates belt that was used because of the smaller size pulley was the 79". I got an email reply from Vortech that going down one size to our pulley should have meant 791/4"? So thank God I got the right one for my set up.

I bought the same belt as Ian (mouthwash) which he eventually used on his with a 3.12" pulley the so I'm sure it will be ok.

 

Can't wait as I'm less than a month to go now so should be interesting to say the least. :lol:

 

I'm planning on selling as many of the spare/unused parts as possible to regain some cash, ...probably just to be used paying for the extra fuel I'll no doubt end up using just going out for drives. :D;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...