Sam Mcgoo Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Good results Chris. Glad it went OK in the main with no major issues. Shame about the fueling though. I'm sure it be enough for the next few winter months. It'll give you something to look forward to. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Yep. If it's the O ring, I remember exactly which one it is ('stard was a sod to get in). If it's the union, I have a shiny blue one with a small hole to put in. I don't really fancy pulling out the bucket *again*, even though there won't be a mouse nest on it this time, but yep there is no point touching it this side of winter. A mere pimple on the buns of success (or something) I could always be expensively lazy and save up for the CJ bucket recommended by Zmanalex - thing of beauty that is. After all I would only buy one.. uh oh.. ££ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Haha - I also saw a 17% drivetrain conversion stated*... that would make it 445 fly for me and 362 hub for you Estimates eh? But yes Vlad has the biggest * early on in the dyno thread Flywheel vs. Wheel HP As most people know, there are power losses through the drivetrain so wheel hp is always lower than flywheel hp. Front wheel drive cars with transverse engines tend to be more efficient than most rear drive configurations due to the layout of components. However most publications overestimate these losses considerably. Most rear drive cars have a 1 to 1, 4th gear which means that the power path goes directly through the mainshaft of the transmission. The only losses here are bearing drag which is less than 0.5% and the viscous drag of the gears running through the oil which is about 1% with hot oil. Indeed, published data indicates a transmission efficiency of 98 to 98.5% for conventional transmissions in 4th gear. Losses within the driveshaft account for about 0.5% if they are properly aligned, balanced and with fresh U-joints. Differential losses in the commonly used Hypoid type gearset is in the order of 6 to 10%. It should be stressed that drivetrain losses vary with rpm as well. The worst scenario case for a rear drive setup is on the order of 12.5% in 4th gear, not the 20 -25% often published. If 25% was being lost in the drivetrain, the oil would boil in the differential housing in short order and aluminum transmission cases would fatigue and break from the temperatures generated. On a 200 hp engine, something on the order of 37,000 watts would have to be dissipated out of the transmission and differential housings. Obviously, this is not the case. Transverse, front drive transaxles usually have no direct lockup gears and no 1 to 1 ratio, however, since the torque path is never turned 90 degrees as in the rear drive setup and efficient helical gears are usually employed for the final drive set, losses are more on the order of 6 to 9 percent in the upper ratios. Tire pressure and wheel alignment can have very significant effects on losses at the rollers. Tire pressures should be set the same between each test. Tire rolling resistance varies inversely with speed, another factor not taken into account by most chassis dynos when applying phantom flywheel hp formulas. So I reiterate na na na nana. As long as you enjoy the car that's all that matters. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Glad you can now play with your beast 380hbp is more than enough to have fun with, your afr graph is totally different from mine though. mine stays at a near enough constant 11.6;1 Always nice to have room for improvement, keep the 3.12 for when you get bored....... it will happen. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 since mine is in the same ball park and I asked for wheel hp not just flywheel that rs tuning like to give out, here is their drive train losses, bit ott I think.428fhp=358whp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Abbey's 40hp offset (which sounds like a sensible 10% around the 400 mark) would put you at 392. Percentage makes more sense as it gives a result proportional to load, but a rule of thumb value works if we are all in the same ball park. The conversions in the old dyno thread seem quite odd some of them You win today, my friend, but only for today hehehehe... mwahhhhhaahahaa... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 since mine is in the same ball park and I asked for wheel hp not just flywheel that rs tuning like to give out, here is their drive train losses, bit ott I think.428fhp=358whp Bloomin heck - you were robbed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 (edited) Wheel not hub,different dynos so more losses. But yeah, could inflate people's eagos unless they ask for actual wheel values than adjusted. Needless to say it's all aboutthe butt dyno for me, if it feels fast enough that's great! But if it scares the sh&$ out of you that's even better! (Shame it costs so much more money.) Edited November 13, 2014 by evilscorp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mouthwash Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Good results What sort of leak do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 You win today, my friend, but only for today hehehehe... mwahhhhhaahahaa... Today we both win as with a supercharged Zed you can't lose. Supercharger + Zed = more smiles per mile. See winning. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 Good results What sort of leak do you have? Fuel - inside the tank, not losing it - we suspect that the bypass nozzle, or the connection to it, that replaces the oem regulator is letting fuel past, so supply drops at high flow rates. Just the effect that the FRS is supposed to alieviate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 You win today, my friend, but only for today hehehehe... mwahhhhhaahahaa... Today we both win as with a supercharged Zed you can't lose. Supercharger + Zed = more smiles per mile. See winning. Indeed - a big supercharger love in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 You win today, my friend, but only for today hehehehe... mwahhhhhaahahaa... Today we both win as with a supercharged Zed you can't lose. Supercharger + Zed = more smiles per mile. See winning. Indeed - a big supercharger love in Just need some good weather now so that you can go out & enjoy it, ...may I recommend you find a good tunnel to drive through. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted November 13, 2014 Author Share Posted November 13, 2014 ^^ Thats true. In the damp, I did notice (even with my 275 rears) not a lot of pedal push at all could get the rear quite lively. Frosty mornings will be interesting : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Just wondered how you're getting on Chris and if you're enjoying it? Hope so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 Completely brilliant. Zedding on another level, really it is Love the sounds and the go - as you say, they should have made them this way from the start Yes, fuel economy has plummeted (just scraped 20MPG, previous ~28MPG) in normal road driving, but Shell have very graciously dropped their prices of V power to the lowest level for years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Good to hear. The thing I find Chris is that because I'm commuting to & from work daily in traffic I'm never getting to really use the power so as soon as the weekend comes I'm more spurred on than I ever was before to go for a nice long drive to really enjoy it. Also can't get enough of the sound from my exhaust/engine now. Especially enjoyable at higher rpm when the sounds echoing off buildings etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 I am driving around with the window down a lot more - in winter - yep sounds are epic. I don't tend to go mad - I've not tried a Firefox moment* and even been near WOT yet (early days, and it's been consistently damp recently), but scruff of neck has been grabbed a few times. All responsibly of course. * let's see what this thing can do... shockwave rooster tails through the Urals.. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Really hoping that I get a good camera for Christmas now from my Mrs so that I can record some decent videos. My phones cr*p & my Mrs shakes like a parkinson's sufferer trying to film any video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 A lot of cameras are good for fine video, but it's getting convincing sound that is hard. A good mic and dedicated recorder would be the way to go, but it's more to buy My bank account needs a lie down for a couple of months at least Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 My bank account needs a lie down for a couple of months at least Same here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) My Chrimble pressie to Precious was a new knob.. The old China eBay knob was getting a bit pitted (but it has to be said hasn't been bad for £20 considering other titanium effect balls go for $70 ! ) Got a nicer Blox Limited Neo Chrome from Sportz. I'm keeping the old finisher for now. Shiny oily petrol blue might not be to every one's taste (love it personally), but I also quite like the infamous Gold wrapped R8 (innit) in another thread (all be it without the stripes) - so clearly I'm no arbiter of style :lol: My independent car monitor side project hasn't progressed *that* far yet, although when the weather is better, I'll start fitting. Gentle winter driving is the order of the day up to then. All the wiring from the sensors will be installed in the car via the firewall grommet leading to a big D plug. The D socket then connects to the micro controller, allowing for easy development. The mini TFT display will also be installed via the plug. Power will come from an extra fused supply, with series diodes to give polarity protection and a small voltage drop to be kinder to the regulator. Sensors are twin wideband AFR, MAP for boost/vacuum, oil temp via the port on the oil cooler sandwich plate, fuel pressure via the port on the Aeromotive FPR, extra IAT via a hole in the Vortech intake - TBD - and extra coolant temp, probably a via port coupling added to the top rad hose. I am happy with OEM gauges for other things. Here is the Arduino Due micro controller with a veroboard 'shield' containing all the requisite resistors to form potential dividers with the sensors. I'm using 1% tolerance types (on the other side of the vero), so easily as accurate as anything off the shelf. I have full maps for non-linear and linear sensors, and have written code to convert these to real values. I will be making use of coloured numerics (and possibly trigger some kind of alarm) if any parameters go out of spec. There are plenty of options for active checking here. For a bit of bling I display a Japanese rising sun on startup Edited December 28, 2014 by ChrisB 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsexr Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Great read, gotta luv a bit of charging 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Very interesting read Chris and like the new gear knob. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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