CamThow Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 First off, i was refitting my newly refinished interior, ie reconnecting the stereo, etc. later that night, when i went to start the car, it wouldnt even try to turn over. the battery volts in center console say its just over 12. so its got plenty. but it wont even engage the starter, so my guess is immobiliser. so i messed about trying to lock, and unlock, then went in to calm down. came back out later, and it wouldnt even unlock the car now (where as it did before). i tried the manual lock aswell, and its stiff shut. i took my spare key out to try that. that doesnt work either (and it did before.) so my dilema. i cant get into the car. at all and i still dont know how to solve it in the first place. any help? im getting extremely stressed. ha! Much thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 (edited) Did you try the headlights at all ? See how bright they were, good indication of battery level It sounds like a dead battery to me The Z is known to go weird when the battery is low You tried to open the boot ? Edited January 29, 2014 by GIXXERUK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamThow Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 Did you try the headlights at all ? See how bright they were, good indication of battery level It sounds like a dead battery to me The Z is known to go weird when the battery is low You tried to open the boot ? I had locked it just before i had went in. so all entry points are locked...i have no way what so ever to get in... ''/ not going very well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JetSet Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 i tried the manual lock aswell, and its stiff shut. Stiff as in it won't turn? Try some WD40, years of not being used (never used mine in 7 years) will stiffen it up a bit . Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 i tried the manual lock aswell, and its stiff shut. Stiff as in it won't turn? Try some WD40, years of not being used (never used mine in 7 years) will stiffen it up a bit . Pete Pete - you are being a touch naughty there , but more seriously you should be be able to get in using the key lock. Might help the experts on here if you say here what electrics you played around with before the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamThow Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 only electrics i touched was plugging the aftermarket stereo back into its harness...but it had already been previously in. the first problem was it wouldnt allow power to the starter, and now nothing works. neither the keys. just tried the manual lock, and its going to bend a key before it opens... ''/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Don't force the key, work it backwards and forwards, spray into the lock and on the key, have you got a multi tester ? Did you notice what the battery voltage read when you actually tried to start it - at the point you turned the key ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Sounds battery, the manual key is another issue. Where are you based? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamThow Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 Sounds battery, the manual key is another issue. Where are you based? Aberdeen...Scotland ''/ ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Sounds battery, the manual key is another issue. Where are you based? Aberdeen...Scotland ''/ ha Just a liitle up the road from Keyser then Clark Motorsport might be a better option for you, if necessary : http://www.clarkmoto...tact-Us/42.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamThow Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 Still cant get manual key to work, even with a bottle of wd40! however, iv went through the driver side arch and pulled the bonnet catch (REALLY EASY) ... so not a stress. new battery (probably didnt need one, but replaced anyway) Checked all fuses, all fine. Immobiliser still activated. cant disarm the thing!!! keep trying various things that nissan have suggested (guys at nissan said they wouldnt know how to fix it other than messing about with guesswork)...not going anywhere near there now... they did say, its timing crucial, so even once out of a hundred go's it should work. so going to spend rest of the night at this on off, quickly for 6 times, and aso the on 5 seconds, off 10, repeat, etc. but what a headache. still dont even know what the original problem was that tripped it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 (edited) thats not good ! what does that sequence do ? disable the immobiliser ? and that doesnt explain the keys and central locking not working, checked all the fuses ? do the wipers, interior light, indicators work ? check the central locking fuses, I had a clio recently which would not release the immobiliser, central locking didnt work, indicators, wipers, interior lights, looked just like the Bsi (bcm) was knackered but turned out to be the central locking was not sending a signal to the Bsi/ bcm took me 3 days to find it, i visually checcked the fuses and didn't see it blown, then i used the multimeter a lot of things are linked via the bcm, the transponder sends a signal to the bcm which pings the ecu to release the immobiliser, this has to happen in a certain time, hence you cannot alter the loom Edited January 29, 2014 by GIXXERUK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrie-B1 Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Just a thought but could it be the battery in the key? I know I have a seperate thingy that has to plug into the car to release the immobiliser if the battery in the key goes flat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 (edited) Just a thought but could it be the battery in the key? I know I have a seperate thingy that has to plug into the car to release the immobiliser if the battery in the key goes flat you tried both keys though, unless you are unlucky enough to have a flat battery in both ? would certainly explain the central locking not working from the remote, worth a try they are cheap is it an aftermarket immobiliser ? Edited January 29, 2014 by GIXXERUK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamThow Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 Update; Went out last night and it started with no problems, so I took it for a test drive over the space of the next two hours going to random places, turning it on and off, Then I was sitting in idle in a parking space in tests away to head home and abs, traction control and esp. Lights came on, Thena noise from the clutch, as the engine starterd to die dropping below idle revs, so I put clutch in and it died. Tried to restart and wouldn't turn on. It's got a new battery battery. Everything worked last night, but somethings randomly tripped the immobiliser again. "/ Any idea? Is it a simple job of replacing the BCM for a new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie-B Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 (edited) if you get it running again check the output voltage from the alternator at the battery terminals what voltage is the battery saying now? If its low again I have a smart charger you can borrow. Its the business Edited January 30, 2014 by Richie-B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamThow Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 Something drained battery. Car started once connecting to mates car and ran fine n charged. Plugged into diagnostics at redline, and no faults on ecu or immobiliser. Found when I turn the interior fan on abs,tc & esp turn on... "/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Sounds like you will have take out what you have done to the interior and recheck all the connections in that area It has to relate to what you have done as it was fine before Good luck, check for damaged wires, you may have trapped a wire somewhere that is now earthing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie-B Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Best thing to do is stick a multi meter between the negative terminal on the battery and the negative lead with the lead disconnected and the car off. Switch the meter to current A. Then one by one pull fuses until you see the the current being drawn reduce. This will show you which circuit is drawing down the power when I say one by one I mean pull it out check the current then replace it if you've had no joy. Chances are though it's your head unit. Check the switched and perminant lives are round the right wAy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 I call permanent live hooked up to aftermarket HU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 (edited) I call permanent live hooked up to aftermarket HU From what I read he hasn't changed the hu, just re connected Permanent live would 1) leave the hu active after the key is removed, which I'm hoping he might notice 2)battery is going flat quickly, the hu doesn't draw that much, you can sit in you're car listening to it for a long time without any effect Edited January 30, 2014 by GIXXERUK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie-B Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 The car is pulling 0.6A with everything switched off. If we pull one of the fuses in the cab it drops to 0.3A which is better but still high. The description for what the fuse does is vague. Any one got a more detailed description of what each fuse does. Its the fuse with the black coloured label named electrical components or something similar, its a 10A fuse in the cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie-B Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 the black coloured one in this pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 As far as I remember "electrical parts" are IPDM, BCM etc, these units control all sorts of things, the workshop manual recommends the removal of this fuse if the vehicle is left for any length of time so there must be some current drain but I agree 300 mA is still highish. I agree, it's time to undo and recheck everything you've done to do with your whole interior "refurb". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletMagnet Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 I call permanent live hooked up to aftermarket HU From what I read he hasn't changed the hu, just re connected Permanent live would 1) leave the hu active after the key is removed, which I'm hoping he might notice 2)battery is going flat quickly, the hu doesn't draw that much, you can sit in you're car listening to it for a long time without any effect OK, then I change to........Permanent live wired to amp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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