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Supercharger Modification


Nimrod

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I've been considering either a TC or SC conversion for some time and have decided to go down the SC route as I don't necessarily need in excess of 500 BHP but would like to get as near to 500BHP as possible with supercharging if the engine can take the stress without upgrading the internals.

 

I understand what's involved with the SC conversion but would fitting Stage 2 Heads, and compatible Cams prove to be of any further benefit or would this just stress the internals too much?

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If you keep it under 400whp (standard car will be about 260whp probably) I don't see why you need a rebuild unless you are unlucky. These kits are designed for stock engines. Don't get me wrong you will worry a lot more about your engine but plent have been driven for a long time on stock internals. 500whp is a different ball game.

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If you keep it under 400whp (standard car will be about 260whp probably) I don't see why you need a rebuild unless you are unlucky. These kits are designed for stock engines. Don't get me wrong you will worry a lot more about your engine but plent have been driven for a long time on stock internals. 500whp is a different ball game.

 

400whp is dangerous IMO. If your going to do it, may as well do it properly. Keeping stock internals is cutting corners and waste of time and money if it blows.. Get the hardship out the way, fully forge and you can do anything you want

Edited by A9H-RX
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400whp is fine on stock internals if you have a good tune and supporting mods etc.

 

Many in the US have done it for years and a few of us over here have too.

 

I would stay below 400 lbft of torque though as it's the mid range torque that breaks these engines.

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440-450rwhp with 360-370lb/ft tq is fine for the standard engine. Rebuilding the engine is costly and complicated, unless you want to go for a crazy fast 900rwhp there is no point wasting your money.

 

Just get the supporting mods - oil cooler, better injectors, better fuel pump and spend the money on suspension, brakes and tyres :)

 

Nevermind comments from people sending you to rebuild the engine, they don't have SC cars, listen to evilscorp and SamMcGoo, we all have / had SC zed :D

 

Not that's what I call being arrogant :lol: :lol:

Edited by octet
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440-450rwhp with 360-370lb/ft tq is fine for the standard engine. Rebuilding the engine is costly and complicated, unless you want to go for a crazy fast 900rwhp there is no point wasting your money.

 

Just get the supporting mods - oil cooler, better injectors, better fuel pump and spend the money on suspension, brakes and tyres :)

 

Nevermind comments from people sending you to rebuild the engine, they don't have SC cars, listen to evilscorp and SamMcGoo, we all have / had SC zed :D

 

Not that's what I call being arrogant :lol: :lol:

 

I stand down octet :lol:

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My suggestion would be to do it in stages. Get to a nice figure for standard internals, personally I don't want my fly hp and more than 420bhp. Then see how it goes for a bit and then if you want more, 500hp plus, go that extra mile.

 

Just consider that unless you do the work yourself, it will be very expensive to rebuild the engine. All depends what you want to use the car for! :teeth:

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If you set an upper limit as to what Octet said so long as you have the supporting mods, a good tune & a healthy engine to start with it will be fine & if it does blow a decent replacement is going to cost you around £1500 o that way you can blow 4-5 engines & still be even on doing a full build that could essentially blow during it's first tune. (ask Keyser about that :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: )

 

& if your planning to use the car on the road & light track work 400-450 whp is an ample amount of power

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Thanks again guys. You guys who have completed the conversions yourselves have my respect. Unfortunately I don't have the spare time or overall mechanical competency to do it on my own; that's why I've contacted Mark at Abbey to get some prices etc.

Will keep you posted.

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Would it make sense to upgrade just the connecting rods, which I believe are the weakest link? Is that not correct or is it not worth opening the engine and then replacing just the rods?

 

I know this has been probably covered before, but since it's a fresh debate and I see some different opinions, I might as well ask..

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