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Adrian@TORQEN

Inevitable, going the FI way -= NOW DONE -= update 13/05/2013

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Adrian, For your consideration have a read here: http://www.350z-uk.c..._cooler__st__20

 

I ended up with this oil cooler set up http://www.driftwork...vt-s14-s15.html

Its pretty cheap for the entire set up Hoses, fittings, Cooler and thermostatic sandwich plate and if can keep a drift car cool, its good enough for us!

Also it has a 92Deg C thermostatic sandwich plate which I couldn't find anywhere else. I think this is pretty important for a daily driver as it can take a while for your oil to get up to temp and a few others have told me in the winter they struggle to get above 60-70deg with a standard Thermostatic valve.

 

I would also, possibly have a re-think about the gauges. I appreciate you may not like the look of them but I am VERY glad I have mine, in particular the AFR and Oil Temp. I would say they are a necessity for longevity.

I have had a couple of issues over the last couple of years regarding fueling One of which was a faulty injector and the other a tuning issue during the open/closed loop transition.

The AFR gauge showed I was running dangerously lean from time to time and it allowed me to adjust my driving accordingly until the issues were identified and resolved. It was a god send while fault finding to. Without it I'm sure damage would have occurred. :surrender:

 

Knowing your oil temp is up to temperature before you start to push it is very handy and probably just as important as it not running hot. Again, without my gauge I would have had no way of knowing that my oil Temp on track had reached 138DegC!!!! :scare: until it was too late. Thats how I knew I had to fit a cooler and how I monitor how effective the set up is.

If you don't want them on display, hide them in the cubby hole. I have one in there but you can easily fit 2 and maybe 3 in there if you wanted.

 

Just something for you to bare in mind. :)

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:lol: :lol: Why would you want to humiliate me in front of everybody!? :lol: :lol:

 

:scare::surrender::scare:

 

 

 

Here is my Spec including all supporting mods :thumbs:

 

Engine

3.5l VQ35DE V6 block bored to 96mm

Tomei pro cams

Brian crower valve springs and valve caps

3 angle valve seats

Ported cylinder heads

Skimmed heads (0.5mm)

OEM full gasket set

Polished and balanced crank

Eagle h-beam rods

Arp rod bolts

Arp Head studs

Cosworth 96mm 11.0:1 forged pistons

ACL race main bearings

ACL race big end bearings

ACL race thrust washers

New oil pump

APS Plenum

APS Sump

Bosch 725cc Injectors

Vortech V2 Supercharger 3.12 pulley

 

 

Additional Engine / Engine Bay

Haltech Platinum Pro ECU

FMIC

Stillen Ceramic Coated Headers

AEM water/meth injector with filter

Wizards of NOS 75 shot system

AMS Light Weight Pulleys (Except main pulley due to damping after lightened and balanced)

Stage 1 Fuel Return System

AAM Fuel rails

Walbro 255 fuel pump

Mishimoto fans and aluminium shroud

Koyo radiator

Nismo thermostat

Nismo oil Cap

Oil Cooler

Power steering fluid cooler

Spill's grounding kit

Stainless Steel Coolant and Power steering pots

Stainless Steel Bolt set

APS Strut brace (modified to clear supercharger)

Rare JDM harness cover (modified to clear brace)

Samco Hoses

Decat Invidia G200 True Dual Exhaust

up rated engine mounts

Z-Speed under tray

 

Transmission

OEM 6 speed gearbox

Carbonetic twin plate clutch

Kaaz limited slip differential (2 way converted to 1.5 way)

Quick Shifter gearstick

Torque Solution rear gearbox mount

Braided Clutch line

 

Suspension, Brakes

Braided Brake lines all round

Front - D2 8pot callipers with 356mm disks

Rear - Ksport 6 pot callipers and 330mm disks

Tein Flex suspension with EDFC

NISMO Front and Rear ARB's

SuperPro / Whiteline adjustable bushes throughout

Adjustable rear camber arms

GTSPEC 4 Point Mid Chassis Reinforcement Brace

GTSPEC Rear Lateral Arm Brace

GTSPEC Rear Lower Tie Brace

GTSPEC Front Lower Tie Brace (to be modified to fit)

GTSPEC Fender Braces

 

Wheels

Rota Drift 18x9 and 18x10 running Toyo 888's 245 and 275 respectively (for track)

Volk RE30 19 x11 and 18x8.5 Running Yokohama 295 and 245 respectively (for road )

 

Interior

Custom built centre console

After market Head Unit with BT and SAT NAV

AEM Wide Band gauges (two)

AEM Fuel pressure gauge

Saga Oil Temp gauge

Saga Oil Pressure gauge

Saga Boost gauge

Bride Brix II Seats and Rails

EDF Control unit

Nismo throttle pedal (still to be fitted)

Track Cam

NOS Control unit

Water/Meth control unit

2 x 5lbs NOS bottles with heaters (stealth install behind passenger seat)

Nismo Titanium gear knob

Custom warning light array

Green LED Lighting

 

Exterior

Shine Amuse Front Bumper with CF intake

CF A Pillars

CF Mirror Covers

CF B pillars

Nismo Version 2 rear wing

Upgraded facelift rear lights (LED type) tinted

Rolled arches

Rear arch extensions

Nismo Side skirts (replica)

LX Front wings

Espirit rear bumper

Limo tinted rear glass

 

 

Angry wife £0.00 in the bank account :lol:

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Just giving you something to aim at mate :thumbs:

 

I'll take you down the road in her Saturday if it's dry enough see how quick you want to get your SC fitted then :thumbs:

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Just giving you something to aim at mate :thumbs:

 

I'll take you down the road in her Saturday if it's dry enough see how quick you want to get your SC fitted then :thumbs:

 

Ha ha good luck with the passenger ride matey.

 

You of course won't fancy a drink afterwards but take a spare pair of pants :lol:

 

I couldn't stop laughing historically with the experience.

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I'm just waiting to see a pic of the Beast and the Turquoise together - colourful, or what.

 

Oh, and take spare trousers Adrian :lol:

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I'm just waiting to see a pic of the Beast and the Turquoise together - colourful, or what.

 

Oh, and take spare trousers Adrian :lol:

 

Trying to keep up with me :evil:

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I'll take you down the road in her Saturday if it's dry enough see how quick you want to get your SC fitted then :thumbs:

 

Uuuh, oooh, that's so nice of you, can't wait! :yahoo:

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I'm just waiting to see a pic of the Beast and the Turquoise together - colourful, or what.

 

Oh, and take spare trousers Adrian :lol:

 

Trying to keep up with me :evil:

 

How about going matte red Darren? :teeth::stir:

 

Notification_Center-20120911-133530.jpg

 

 

murcielago_dpe_110812_3.jpg_1%2C280×854_pixels-20120911-134420.jpg

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This is a good read. Brings back memories! :)

2.5 years boosted and still going strong. Let me know if you need any help or advice.

May even be able to help you source parts if you need! PM me.

Edited by wizard

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With me and Keyser around, you'd be extremely stealth in the current colour! :lol:

 

I`d hope to be the last one pulled by the fuzz too :p

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With me and Keyser around, you'd be extremely stealth in the current colour! :lol:

 

I`d hope to be the last one pulled by the fuzz too :p

 

 

With the noise on yours?

 

Anyway I'm so overt it's convert

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Is he the guy that bought Bennett's K1 exhaust? :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

 

 

With me and Keyser around, you'd be extremely stealth in the current colour! :lol:

 

I`d hope to be the last one pulled by the fuzz too :p

 

 

With the noise on yours?

 

Anyway I'm so overt it's convert

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Anyway I'm so overt it's convert

 

What like wearing florescent orange in the forest so the bears can`t see you? :lol:

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Is he the guy that bought Bennett's K1 exhaust? :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

 

 

With me and Keyser around, you'd be extremely stealth in the current colour! :lol:

 

I`d hope to be the last one pulled by the fuzz too :p

 

 

With the noise on yours?

 

Anyway I'm so overt it's convert

 

haha Believe it or not part of my exhaust has a quiet milltek stamp on it. Not sure if theres anything in terms of baffles left inside of it though :lol:

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Keyser, what are the advantages of using the Haltech Platinum Pro ECU over the UpRev and OEM ECU?

 

Did you get the tuning done at AME?

 

Is AEM water/meth injector a must, would you say?

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Just some general advice from me when undertaking an FI build to anyone.

 

It's very easy to start going through catalogues of stuff and spend as much as your credit card allows buying stuff... but unless the car is to be a show car of some sort, I tend to think a lot of it can be a waste.

 

Personally I'd always tend to keep things as simple as possible, and find the potential / limit of where I can go with what I have, and then when there's a reason to upgrade something, do so! - This is not about doing things on the cheap, because I know from experience with cars, doing things cheap never ends well... but it's about knowing what you're upgrading and why it will make a difference over OEM / or over the part you're replacing with.... and most importantly, how will you measure that change?

 

Just some food for thought! :thumbs:

Edited by wizard

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