Jump to content
D4XNY

How To - Adjust Clutch Pedal

108 posts in this topic

Recommended Posts

Hello all, and thank you for taking time to read this.

 

Since I got my Z 2 yrs ago, I have always loved the car, but one thing has always annoyed me, and that is the high biting point of the car. Makes pulling off very tricky and amateurish, often very bumpy, and not good for my street cred, lol.

 

Shortly after buying the car, I replaced the clutch, which was much better, but still that biting point felt too high, and with a grippier paddle clutch, this made taking off all of a bigger problem. And I love smooth getaways.

 

So after some research, I found out how to adjust my clutch pedal, and oh my god, it makes the Z a whole lot more pleasurable to drive, im not nervous about pulling away at lights anymore, and I can drive the car how I want to again!

 

Always been used to cars with low biting points, so the Z has been hard to get used to, and I still struggled, a high biting point, just isnt my driving style.....

 

So anyway, I fixed it, with a few guides from the net, and thought I would add my own one here.

 

At this point can I point out, that your not adjusting the actual biting point of the clutch, just the position of the clutch pedal. Therefore you wont be "riding" the clutch, nor burning it out. Its simply a mod, to lower the pedal, so the biting point appears to be lower.

 

Before I started, I noticed that my clutch pedal was a good inch higher than the brake pedal, when i finished, it was about 10mm lower than it.

 

Tools I found I needed, were a 12 mm spanner, a work light and some nose pliers

 

 

Clutch013.jpg

 

Now this is the tricky bit, accessing the part....

 

You basically have to get on your back and slide in, under the steering wheel, so that your looking up at the pedals, and behind the steering assembly ( Now im 6'2 20 stone, and i managed it) I found that if you push the seat back and as low to the ground as possible, you could perch your bum on the end of the seat, and rest your legs on the shoulders of the drivers seat... lol

 

When you look up, this is what your presented with...

 

Clutch001.jpg

 

Now there are 2 sensors on the clutch pedal, when its released (normal position) it touches the sensor that operates the cruise control

NOTE: If you adjust the clutch pedal too low, when the pedal is released, it wont touch this sensor, therefore cruise control will not work, i been told, after a few days the engine check light comes on because of this, so even if you dont use cruise control, please dont upset the car. This sensor can be adjusted with a 12mm bolt, but I found it easier to stick a red 5mm spacer onto the pedal, as you can see. ( YOU Dont have to do this) Only reason I done this, is because I like my biting point low.

 

Clutch012.jpg

 

The other sensor activates the engine start, and works when pedal is depressed, so shouldnt interfere with what we are doing.

 

Now the bolt we are aiming for, is a long silver bolt, with a lock nut on it, attaching to a gold U bracket, which attaches to the clutch pedal, it has spines down it, so not hard to spot.

 

 

Clutch002.jpg

 

You need to get your 12mm spanner up there, and twist the lock nut loose, I didnt find mine hard at all, but some people wedge a screwdriver into the U bracket, to stop it twisting when you force the lock nut loose.

 

Clutch009.jpg

 

Once its loose, get your nose pliers, and adjust the silver bolt to your desire. Most people agree 2 turns is about normal. When I first looked at mine, I had about 2 lines of thread showing through the Gold U Bracket. As you can see now, I have nearly 4 lines of thread.

 

Please note, when turning the main Silver bolt, its very hard, with nose pliers, I was only moving it about 1-2mm at a time cos of the restricted space, just be persistent with it, it will come. Make sure you turn it the right way, the more thread you see in the U Bracket, the shorter the pedal throw will become, and the less thread you see in the U Bracket, the longer the throw of the pedal, please dont unscrew it out though, god forbid I dont know how you will get it back in!!

 

Once adjusted, depress the clutch a few times with your hand, making sure it hits the sensors, before tightening your lock nut back up again. Or do what I do, take it for a spin, see how it feels, make sure your cruise control works, if it dosent feel right, than just readjust.

 

Job Done!

 

Now my clutch pedal sits like this, compared to my brake pedal

 

Clutch014.jpg

 

Your pretty much aiming for the pedal to sit level with the brake pedal, mine sits about 10mm lower than it, but thats my personal taste.

 

Summary

1. Tools needed, 12mm spanner, nose plier, work light (WD40)

2. Release Lock nut above Gold U Bracket

3. Turn Silver Spindle bolt to suit (2 turns) and please make sure you dont twist it the wrong way, so it comes out of the U Bracket!!

4. Once adjusted, tighten lock nut back again.

 

5. Repeat procedure until you have desired feel of your clutch pedal.

6. Takes about 20mins, 10mins once you know what your doing.....

 

DISCLAIMER: All mods are taken at your own risk. This is purely a guide. Nor Me or http://www.350z-uk.com take any responsibilty for your own mods, and if your break anything, You do this all at your own risk.

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Heel & toe braking is a bit of a issue with the high bite point, never feel comfertable with it. I'll give your guide a go nice one :thumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers fellas, the trickiest bit, is wedging yourself under the steering column, not easy for us big fellas, nimble hands help as well!

 

Had my clutch adjusted for about a month or so now, no complaints at all, i lowered it even more for personal taste, its prob about 20mm behind the brake pedal now, but no, it dosent ride the clutch, the biting point is just nice and low how i like it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I find the clutch a bit "high" on my car also so went to have a look at where mine is sitting - I can just about see one thread above the U bracket so am a bit scared to fiddle with it in case I turn it the wrong way or the locknut undoes it! Will probably give it a go though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great guide, I did mine thismorning only took 5min. was dreading it after reading other guides untill is saw this one with actual pictures and it was a breeze just a bit akward!! How did you connect the plastic spacer to your pedal? I thouch of just super glue but don't know how that will stand up to vibration etc. mine is just touching the sensor but not enough to activate it so will need to do something about that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, super glue is your friend, mine still on strong! Left it over night to give it proper time to set, and its great....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awsome, i'm sure i seen some scarp bits of plastic about the right thickness lying about at work so will get myself a wee bit and glue it on on Tuesday when i'm back at work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have just done this a couple of turns but I would like my pedal even lower (still higher up than the brake pedal) I am worried if I screw the bolt further into the U bracket and lower the biting point when the pedal is at its top position where it is resting it is pulling the bolt (which I guess is connected to the cluctch slave cylinder?) it will pull this out too far if you get me? Is this the case?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dear god.. Just tried and failed! The spindle you need to twist is VERY RESISTANT. My pliers weren't good enough, or my puny grip was too puny.

 

On the plus side the lock nut was very easy to break off, don't see the need for the screwdriver.

 

The biggest issue with this by far is how akward it is. Trying to push the brake pedal in with my head so I can see up to the U shaped bit.

 

It's a great guide, I just need better toothed pliers to try it again :p

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great guide... :thumbs:

 

One thing to add, I adjusted the clutch sensor for the cruise control, rather than adding on a spacer. And the bold for it is a 14mm, not 12mm.

Just so no-one else has to get in and out of the car as many times as I had to this morning :D

And to get to it you really need to take of the ECU to get to this 14mm bolt, which is three 10mm bolts.

 

Adjusted pretty easily, I have hardly ANY thread left on the bolt side now and the bite is STILL high up. So I think it may be time for a new clutch...!!!! :doh:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Great guide... :thumbs:

 

One thing to add, I adjusted the clutch sensor for the cruise control, rather than adding on a spacer. And the bold for it is a 14mm, not 12mm.

Just so no-one else has to get in and out of the car as many times as I had to this morning :D

And to get to it you really need to take of the ECU to get to this 14mm bolt, which is three 10mm bolts.

 

Adjusted pretty easily, I have hardly ANY thread left on the bolt side now and the bite is STILL high up. So I think it may be time for a new clutch...!!!! :doh:

 

Well, the bite won't have changed. You've just lowered the pedal is all. Not adjusted the bite in any way.

 

If the clutch is not slippable you don't need to do it yet: Unless you want to due to the way the clutch feels. But, maybe get that rainy day fund going as it'll be about a £1200 job all in! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well, the bite won't have changed. You've just lowered the pedal is all. Not adjusted the bite in any way.

 

If the clutch is not slippable you don't need to do it yet: Unless you want to due to the way the clutch feels. But, maybe get that rainy day fund going as it'll be about a £1200 job all in! :)

I know I am only adjusting the pedal. but that "kind of" adjusts the bite too.

 

Need to go for a proper drive in her really, to see what difference it has made.

 

Just coming up to 80,000 miles, so she may be due a new clutch anyway. Specially if I do the decat-plenum spacer and rev-up I am planning next year.

£1200 isn't too crazy. I know a few mechanic bods who I am sure can help me out.

 

Might PM Al just to check on the price of a clutch anyway :pmzmanalex:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to revive this, I just stumbled on a thread on the american forums and talk of a bracket that allows adjustment of the actual biting point and widening of the window, so that the bite is more gradual rather than on/off as it is now.

Anybody care to throw this into simpleton language and whether it's worth chasing this bracket kit?

 

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-driv ... acket.html

 

and

 

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-driv ... -read.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just to revive this, I just stumbled on a thread on the american forums and talk of a bracket that allows adjustment of the actual biting point and widening of the window, so that the bite is more gradual rather than on/off as it is now.

Anybody care to throw this into simpleton language and whether it's worth chasing this bracket kit?

 

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-driv ... acket.html

 

and

 

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-driv ... -read.html

 

 

Just had a read through that, intresting stuff. One Mod the guy did before developing the bracket was removing the spring on the clutch pedal?! Has anyone here tried that?

 

TBH, I would be intrested in buying this bracket kit as I find the clutch a sod in the Zed. Problem is mines a RHD and a 07+...

 

BulletMagnet looking at various review its been well recieved, I guess the question is how much does the clutch bother you? :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just to revive this, I just stumbled on a thread on the american forums and talk of a bracket that allows adjustment of the actual biting point and widening of the window, so that the bite is more gradual rather than on/off as it is now.

Anybody care to throw this into simpleton language and whether it's worth chasing this bracket kit?

 

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-driv ... acket.html

 

and

 

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-driv ... -read.html

 

 

Just had a read through that, intresting stuff. One Mod the guy did before developing the bracket was removing the spring on the clutch pedal?! Has anyone here tried that?

 

TBH, I would be intrested in buying this bracket kit as I find the clutch a sod in the Zed. Problem is mines a RHD and a 07+...

 

BulletMagnet looking at various review its been well recieved, I guess the question is how much does the clutch bother you? :)

 

I see what your saying, and I have become quite used to the Zeds clutch.

Just thought of those that weren't entirely happy with theirs and thought I'd pass the info on :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just to revive this, I just stumbled on a thread on the american forums and talk of a bracket that allows adjustment of the actual biting point and widening of the window, so that the bite is more gradual rather than on/off as it is now.

Anybody care to throw this into simpleton language and whether it's worth chasing this bracket kit?

 

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-driv ... acket.html

 

and

 

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-driv ... -read.html

 

 

Just had a read through that, intresting stuff. One Mod the guy did before developing the bracket was removing the spring on the clutch pedal?! Has anyone here tried that?

 

TBH, I would be intrested in buying this bracket kit as I find the clutch a sod in the Zed. Problem is mines a RHD and a 07+...

 

BulletMagnet looking at various review its been well recieved, I guess the question is how much does the clutch bother you? :)

 

 

Just thought of those that weren't entirely happy with theirs and thought I'd pass the info on :D

 

:thumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just done this mod on our new Zed.

 

One word - amazing!!! :D

 

Before the pedal was very high and the bite was too obviously. Now the clutch pedal is level with the brake pedal, and the bite & pedal feel totally normal :) We have got a clutch from Zman to fit in the new year too, so it should be excellent then :D

 

Took me about 30 minutes after looking at the guide. That included removing the ECU to gain access to the cruise control sensor so I could adjust it correctly. I think the hardest part is getting yourself situated under the dash lol - back ache anyone?

 

Top marks to D4XNY for the excellent guide :thumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×