Randy_Baton Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Had to disconnect my battery today, now I can't get the tape reset to work. Its exactly the same procedure following a battery reset isn't it? Must have tried 20 times.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Yes exactly the same procedure, its just a pain in the ass to get the timings correct! You will get it eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 Ive just done the hack and it works a treat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genkisan Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Just completed this mod and first time thought it didn't work as couldn't stop it saying "Push Eject"... took it all apart again rechecked and refitted still the same...So after doing it 3, 4 times at 30 seconds tried one at around 45 seconds and it worked WOOOPIE.... sound is great, better start sorting out playlists now though as cant change tracks whilst driving.. Anyway, thought I should post results in case anyone else was about to give up at first go. Thanks for the great instructions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watshot Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Timing during the reset appears to vary. Mine resets without a problem after 10 or 15 seconds, I don't count anything. So I wouldn't get too hung up on exact timing. Sounds like trial and error, see what works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 There seems to be a user "GroverSt" that "likes" the first post of this thread over and over every day. been going for months. Not sure if something is broken or it's a spam bot of some sort? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 There seems to be a user "GroverSt" that "likes" the first post of this thread over and over every day. been going for months. Not sure if something is broken or it's a spam bot of some sort? Spammer. Although posting is disabled it seems he is still able to 'spam' with "Like this" - something I have not heard of before so I'll get Admin to delete his IP edit: He is now history 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidan Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Just done the bose hack yesterday - why did I not do it sooner???? Very easy and works a treat .....a happy bunny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbw100 Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 Got to stage 3 in 57 plate HR GT no sat nav and first set of screws on cubby hole don't look they exist. Carried on and got to stage of pulling centre console out and removing head unit but doesn't seem to wasn't to come out and thinking its these screws I couldn't see holding the top of the unit in? Am I right? Any ideas? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 (edited) As there are no number stages in the OP, do you mean the top picture or the bottom picture attached below (presume its the bottom!)? I've not got a HR so can't confirm if you should have the screws but this guide didn't come from a HR. When you try to pull it out can you tell where its catching. The probelm I ahd with mine was getting the the unit round the white plastic box at the bottom. Remove the two small black screws shown now remove the two that retain the centre console down the sides. Edited April 27, 2014 by Randy_Baton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbw100 Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 Top picture. Those screws don't exist on an HR. Think I'm going to put it back together before I get in too deep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 This from America but it looks like a HR, 2 screw on top. Full guide: http://liljerk.morph...Z/dash_removal/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbw100 Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 Doesn't look like that either. Going to rethink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watshot Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 The HR is different, but it was so long ago I can't remember. I thought it was mentioned in these pages somewhere? Either way, it's not difficult, just slightly different. I wouldn't give up just yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watshot Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 Okay, lift the mat out. Pull the two plastic covers in the front bottom corners forward and out. You can now access the two screws holding the framework through these holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbw100 Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 This is how far I got but couldn't see how to remove the surround to remove the head unit. Didn't want to push my luck with brute force! Should it come out front ways or backwards from the dash?Sorry if I'm being an idiot!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 The cubby hole isn't your problem, the screws in the cubby hole hold the centre console to the car, you've got round that problem. already. The stereo is held in to the centre console via 4 screws in the side, Its best to get the whole console out then undo the screws, but you can do it by leavering it forward. The thing I had issue with was getting the the metal feet (shown at the bottom of this picture) out from behind the white plastic thing. I had taken out the screws that go into the holes but it was still hard to get out. I think you've got the same problem. You need to loosen the screws that hold the white box in to give you more wiggle room. I think you need to play around with these screws. Each picture is from a different model US at the top, UK (non HR) at the bottom. Hopefully yours is similar. http://www.350z-uk.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=5451 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 The white box is the worst part of the whole thing, it really is a faff to get it out. I'll go through and slap some numbers in the steps to make it easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted April 28, 2014 Share Posted April 28, 2014 The white box is the worst part of the whole thing, it really is a faff to get it out. I'll go through and slap some numbers in the steps to make it easier Yep, took me 5 mins to get it out and 30 mins to get it back in. Such a ridiculous shape/angle of attachment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo Mahoney Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Many thanks for this guide. Aux mod now done and my tape deck did the usual "PRESS EJECT" thing until I did the reset. Many thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PageyUK Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Considering doing this myself. Looks good although I'd want a way of charging the phone/iPod at the same time. How have people done this, just splice into the cigarette lighter port behind the seats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 (edited) If i recall, there is a cig socket on the passenger side, slightly under the dash? you can wire into that no problem. or the one behind the seats, makes no difference You can do it two ways: 1) get a 12v to 5v voltage regulator circuit and put a USB socket on it. 2) (the much easier way) get a small cig socket to USB and plug a USB extension cable into it. You will most likely need to include one of thesein line in order to remove the whine. Using method 2, you want to wire a 2nd 12v socketinto the lines of the OEM 12v socket and hide it behind the trim. Then plug in something like this into it, finally put your USB extension cable (or phone charger cable direct) into that and run it to wherever you want. And if you felt really flash you could install something like thisto finish it off nicely Edited June 10, 2014 by Husky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lurch Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Jus done this and that was possibly the easiest bang for buck mod i have ever done! Im so impressed with how simple that actually was Thanks For all the help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spork Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 So I've got to step 9 of the original post, but for the life of me can't unplug the connector to the 3 gauges (below - I've got an HR if that makes a difference). I've seen reference to a tab that needs pushing but can't feel one. Could someone do me a huge favour and explain in words of one syllable how to disconnect it? Hate not being able to see what I'm doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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