Jimbo Mahoney

Welcome! I'm a relatively new 350Z owner, with a 2004 GT. The only mod I felt the car needed was spacers. I went for hubcentric once from Clark Motosport - 30mm on rear and 20mm on front. I think most people go 25mm on rear and 20mm on front. Here's my (basic) build thread: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/84642-my-2004-350z-gt-build-and-updates-thread/ As for the stubby - I just went with one from Halfords (ripspeed I think?), although at a recent meetup, everyone else seemed to use a different model, but all the same. I don't use the radio, and have modded the cassette deck to accept a 3.5mm aux connection, so I don't care if the reception is poor. Hope this helps!

My guess is that they drive at higher speeds than you in 30 zones. They feel you ought to be driving faster because you have a sports car, even in a 30. I actually find I drove SLOWER now in the Z in a 30 and 40 zone - I used to do what I suspect most people do, which is almost 40 in a 30 and almost 50 in a 40. Now I pretty much sit at 35 (according to the computer) in a 30, which would actually be ~33. I suspect most people would do closer to 38.

Aye - checked under the car and it DOES have cats on, but DOESN'T have the mid-section muffler - just backbox. It also had a loose bolt, which was rattling a lot, so I got them to spot-weld it in place. There was no way the bolt was ever coming off without cutting anyway!

Thanks guys. martin was spot-on - £40 for a bit welded in to replace the cracked section. That'll do me for now - will leave exhaust changes for when I get itchy for a change and have more funds! Shout out to Dee's Exhausts in Newtownabbey for sorting me out so quickly!

On my way to work this morning and the exhaust decided to break just where the pipe joins the backbox. (Not sure of the terminology, but when I look under the back if the car, I can clearly see the pipe is cracked just before the single pipe from the engine joins the exhaust box). What's the best thing to do? The car is INSANELY LOUD RIGHT NOW AND QUITE EMBARRASING TO DRIVE! I'm assuming it can just be welded back together, but the problem will happen again? Is it worth fitting a new exhaust, and if so which one and why? I plan to keep the car in good working order for a number of years as a daily drive, so if it means splashing some cash to increase performance and reduce problems down the line, then so be it. Thanks!

Just started taking mine regularly to Gary Hughes @ Hughes Autos (Nissan Repair Centre NI): http://www.garyhughesautos.com/ So far, I've had a health check, P2 service and front suspension arms fitted and VERY happy with Gary and his work. Recommended if you're in the Belfast area, although it's a little out of the way for me. Would much rather take the car to a good independent than Charles Hurst though...

Another happy customer! So far, I've bought Superforma spacers and (sadly needed, but SO much better for it) a pair of banana arms (ouch!). They are genuine Nissan parts, but cheaper for me to buy from Clark Motorsport than the independent Nissan garage I use! Thanks Ewen & co!

I did 30mm rear and 20 mm front on my stock 04 UK GT. Pics here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/84642-my-2004-350z-gt-build-and-updates-thread/#entry1277155

Grats! Hopefully see you soon!

[DISCLAIMER - I'm a car novice and only just learning what terms like banana arm and drop link refer to] Hi all, The Nissan garage (indy, not dealer) I'm using has recommended that both front arms are replaced, together with the ball joints and drop links. The drop links and ball joints don't concern me price-wise, but the arms cost a fortune! The main problem I'm having is that one side is VERY noisy / rattly / bumpy when driving over uneven road surfaces. Not even severe bumps like speed bumps, but just manhole covers / bumps / divets / poor tarmac. Could it be a track rod end causing this? The garage also say that one is needed and I think that's the side the noise is coming from. Originally, the garage thought they would be about £176 each (part # 54524AL500), but it seems this part has been changed (and made more expensive) at about £250 each! He also thinks this is very expensive. He says that I could get some cheaper and he'll send me an Ebay link, but I'd like your expert opinions. Are there some that you would recommend that I could buy from one of the well-known 350 parts shops? e.g. Is this what I need? http://cougarstore.c...&products_id=52 Thanks!

Hello fellow Belfastian! Might see you round at some point!

Welcome! Fellow Belfast 350Z owner here! Saw another orange one on my way back from Mount Stewart at the weekend - I thought I was the only orange in NI! (As did he probably!)

I'm reasonably satisfied with the Bose, even as a semi-audiophile. At least satisfied enough not to bother with a HUD / speaker upgrade just yet... If it helps, here is what I'm using: MPSS types on the rear. 050A on the front (will probably replace with MPSS when they wear out) Bose CD player set to +5 bass, -1 treble, possibly -1 rear fade (possibly just 0), Audio PS ON (or whatever it's called) I've also replaced the relay in the sub amp because it kept cutting out. I don't *think* this has affected the sound, but it seems less "boomy" now?

Heya, I had this problem too, but the reset procedure worked great. It's important to follow exactly: turn the ignition off and remove the keys. Hold the tape eject button for 60 seconds. release the button and turn the ignition on again. select "tape" and attach a device for test. At first, I was stumped because I hadn't removed the keys / turned off the ignition. After I held the button in with the keys removed, then inserted the keys and turned on, the deck went through some kind of start-up routine and no longer needed a tape inserted. Hope this helps!

I want to go 30mm on the rear of mine too but I have 20mm on the front and thought it could mess it up with this set up? I take it it's alright? Can't tell any difference apart from visuals, but then I haven't had the car long and I'm not driving it on a track. Doubt you'd notice handling on normal roads.

Update after it's been for a health check @ Hughes Autos near Lisburn: (Clutch was done just before I got the car and spark plugs were done 2012, so they're OK): Important / getting done first: Diff oil Gearbox oil engine oil track rod end ~£250 Less important / will get done next: Front and rear discs and pads clean and paint all brake pipes ~£350 Less important / will get done last: Front upper arms, both sides Rear drop links ~£500 Prices and detail seem fair to me, having had a quick look around, although I must admit to being a serious car newbie...

I did mine very soon after getting the car. I think I just have a "thing" about wheels sitting too far under the arches. Looks SO much nicer when they're flush. I used 30mm on the rear and 20mm on the front on standard UK 2004 car / wheels. It cost about £200 and just under 2 hours to do myself as a car newbie and my insurance company wanted another £36 a year. For me, it was well worth it, but it's a personal choice. Nothing more than aesthetics.

Aux mod done: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/45398-how-to-bose-phono-ipod-hack-guide/ Relay replaced on the sub that was cutting out: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/84859-better-fix-for-bose-sub-cutting-out-replacing-relay/

Just soldered the new relay in and it's all working well - thanks again!

Many thanks for this guide. Aux mod now done and my tape deck did the usual "PRESS EJECT" thing until I did the reset. Many thanks!

During the week, she stays covered:

Completely agree! Bang for buck can't be beaten. Might put some 19s on there in the future, but that's going to be a big outlay - maybe when the Michelins on the back need replaced...

Fitted and torqued to 115nm. Took me about 20 mins per wheel using the bog standard jack and wrench in the boot. Pics here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/84642-my-2004-350z-gt-build-and-updates-thread/ Very happy with how it looks and doubting whether I'm going to bother changing the wheels or lowering it in the near future now - probably will when I'm bored and / or feeling flush...

UPDATE: Superforma 30mm spacers on rear, 20mm on front, plus you can see the stubby aerial in these pics. Front before/after: Back before/after: