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How-To - N2Mb WOT Box (2 Step Launch Control)


cs2000

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This guide will be for installing the N2MB WOT box which adds WOT shifting and 2 step launch control to a few makes/models of cars.

 

The manufacturer is N2MB http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox

 

I ordered mine from PSI Tuning, theyre a reseller of N2MB products from America. It worked out cheaper ordering this from them due to the eventual import tax.

http://www.psituning.com/product.php/14468/wot_box_launch_control

 

 

Time & Tools

This took me about 4 hours to install, mainly due to the tight working environments in the foot wells, and the amount of wire wrapping you have to remove.

 

You need to be confident in your work, so would say its easily a 7/10 as there's great potential to massively screw up your vehicle.

 

Tools I used were;

Soldering Iron + Solder

Side Cutter Pliars (for snipping wires)

Wire Strippers

Lighter (for heatshrink)

Multimeter (not essential but recommended)

Scalpel or other shark blade

 

 

 

Instalation

In the box you will receive the Harness, some cable ties, heatshrink and the box itself (not pictured). Start with this lot.

 

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We need to find a way for this to be in the cabin, the only way I could find was using the same grommet as the main wiring loom. To do this you need to take off the plastics around the battery until you see this grommet. As I have done, slice a small hole in this and feed the RED and ORANGE and BLACK wires from your wiring loom up into the engine bay, leave the rest in your passenger foot well.

 

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Next, we need to find the wiring that sends the pulses to the injectors, we have to get this before it splits off to the injectors themselves, so look on the drivers side of the engine, you will see a thick tube full of wires, surrounded by a plastic protector, there is also a large lump on the cable loom.

 

You need to cut this all the way back as far as you can get it until you see these two factory joins (the yellow strips in the picture). This takes a long time as you need to be careful NOT to split any wires.

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Unwrap the yellow tape that surrounds the WHITE/BLUE striped wire, inside will be some OEM goop Nissan used to seal the join, clean all this up.

 

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Now comes the first scary bit. Right where the wires join, you will see one heading towards the rear of the engine bay, and two heading towards the front. Cut the wires right on this join.

2115227212_17-YIqNIp.jpeg.e6612d4eee54e266560bda6c74d860e8.jpeg

 

 

You then need to attach the RED wire on the WOT Box harness to the single wire, and the ORANGE wire to the other two once you have twisted them together. Use some heat shrink to secure the joins.

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Now you're done over here. Route the cables best you can neatly, leaving any excess slack on the footwell

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I didn't take any photos here, but before you re-attach the plastics, use the included cable terminal and mount the BLACK earth wire. YOu can unscrew one of the bolts holding the main battery earth down and shove it under here. Once done, replace all your plastics.

 

Next, route the GREEN and BLUE wires over to the drivers side of the car.

 

Unplug the throttle pedal connector and find pin 5. The pins are numbered from the rear, so in the photo below, its the bottom middle. You need to use a sharp blade and remove the outer sheath, twist the BLUE wire over this and solder in place. Tidy up with some Electrical tape, then re-attach the connector.

 

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Next up is the clutch switch, to access this you need to remove the Body Computer. This is held in by 3 bolts and then slides out, also unclip its electrical connector and set aside.

 

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This picture will make absolutely NO sense unless you've been there, but you need to remove the connector for the top clutch switch.

 

Once youve done this, attach the GREEN wire onto the wire I have cut here, this in my case is BLUE AND ORANGE striped, attach in the same way as the throttle sensor wire.

 

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Plug all the plugs back in, and re-mount the BCM

 

This should leave you with a single wire left, the yellow one..... This took me about 6 hours to resolve.... Head over to the passenger side of your car

 

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Up under the footwell, you should see a connector like the one over on the Body Control Module (BCM), unclip this and bring it into view, this is the ECU/ECM

 

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You need some way of the WOT BOX to know your engine speed, the way it works in the Z is using the Crankshaft Position Sensor signal, this on on pin #13 of the plug above. HOWEVER, its NOT pin 13 as were looking at it, its bloody reversed. I had this installed and not working for hours, spent all evening looking at what I did wrong, researching, hitting dead end, brick walls, and then I find an installation guide for am AEM ECU, which says "Looking from wire side of connector" DOH!!!

 

SO... if you orient the connector I have shown, you need to find pin 13, which is actually this one.

 

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For reference, that's the 8th pin across, on the bottom row, now you need to find this wire on the reverse side (which is damn hard), it will be blue and white. Attach the YELLOW wire from the WOT BOX harness to this in the same fashion as the others.

 

Re-attach the large connector block to the ECU

 

All simple from here. Go and get the WOT BOX and plug it into its connector, mount it somewhere visible, as you need to see the flashing LED for troubleshooting.

 

 

 

Software Setup

You need to get the WOT BOX software downloaded onto a laptop, this is available from N2MB at the link

 

http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox/software

 

Install this onto your laptop, use the included serial to USB adaptor and get yourself connected to the WOT BOX, your ignition must be in the ON position. If you have issues, read their Software guide here http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox/software/wotbox_software_instructions.pdf

 

Once connected, hit READ, then set your settings like mine, making ABSOLUTLY sure to select your RPM Source as our cars

 

957895021_11-SqO8VU.png.b251fc1ec2cb527fac42f39e08f089d0.png

 

Feel free to alter the parameters, but I found these work well, the main one you will want to play with however is the Launch Control RPM, mine is set to 4k, but alter this to whatever you want.

 

Once you're happy, press Write to save your changes

 

 

Troubleshooting/Testing

 

1. Turn the key to the ON position but do not start the engine.

Open up the WOT BOX Software.

Press and hold both the clutch and throttle pedals to the floor, hit read

Make sure that the Clutch and TPS fields in the bottom say DN.

Lift the pedals back up, hit read again, they should now say UP.

If not, check the wiring on the corresponding pedal.

 

2. Turn the key to the ON position but do not start the engine.

Quickly press the throttle pedal to the floor. You should see the LED on the WOT Box start to rapidly blink.

If it does not, check your throttle position sensor signal connection (BLUE Wire).

 

3. Next, press the clutch pedal to the floor. You should see the LED on the WOT Box briefly go out, and then come back on solid for one second and then finally resume blinking rapidly.

If you do not see this, check your Clutch Switch signal connection (GREEN Wire).

 

4. Next, start the engine. Quickly press the throttle pedal to the floor and immediately step on the clutch.

You should hear the engine start to rev up as normal, stumble for a short period while the ignition and fuel is cut, then return back on and continue rev'ing.

Remove your foot from the gas before you hit the rev limiter.

If the engine does not stumble or pause when the LED turns out, then check the RED and ORANGE paired wire in the engine bay. Verify that the RED and ORANGE

16 AWG are wired facing the proper way. If they are reversed, the ignition cut will not work.

 

5. Lastly, test the 2-Step. Press the clutch pedal down and then press the throttle pedal all the way down.

The engine should rev up to the desired RPM and hold.

If it does not, be sure to remove your foot from the throttle before you hit the rev limiter.

If the 2-step does not work, check the Crankshaft Position Sensor connection (YELLOW Wire).

 

 

 

Usage

 

To use the WOT Shift feature, keep your foot fully on the Throttle and shift quickly using the clutch. Keep the throttle fully depressed through the shift. The WOT Box will detect the clutch switch signal and briefly cut the ignition and fuel to enable an effortless shift.

 

To use the 2-Step feature, fully depress the clutch. Next, fully depress the throttle. The engine will rev up and hold the RPM that you have set. Quickly release the clutch while leaving the gas fully depressed to launch the car.

 

 

 

Summary

 

So there we have it. And now for the why? Well, quite simply, our cars are not quick in modern terms anymore. Using large N/A engines just is outdated nowadays, there's plenty of 1.4 or 1.6 turbo' s or Supercharged cars that will demolish the Z over a 1/4 mile.

 

Over the summer I have attended 4 1/4 mile drag events held at a local airfield, and I decided I wanted something to help with my getaways, plus I love a gadget. Oh and it makes a cool noise, so that's why.

 

Personally, I wont be using WOT shifting. I have tested it, it works fine, but it feels so strange to do it, and also my aging and already tired gearbox doesn't like it too much, I already have synchromesh issues from 1st to 2nd and 5th to 6th and I don't want to make those any worse. But, if your gearbox is fine, go for it.

 

The main benefit of these boxes are for turbo vehicles however. They enable you to build boost on the line so you're setting off with max power, and to keep the turbo spooled up during gear changes, again, meaning you can effectively do a getaway, and shift through all of your gears whilst on pretty much full turbo pressure.

 

In our cars, we don't have the benefit, but it will (if used properly) help your 1/4 mile times, and it makes a cool noise, so why not.

 

As usual, remember this is just my experience. I'm writing a guide based off of this as I'm unaware of any other UK 350 running this system, so its in the hope it will help others. I strongly recommend you verify your connections with a multimeter before making alterations to your factory wiring and of course if you screw it up, we as a community will try to assist, but the onus is on you to do it right, not my fault if you don't ;)

3 - HMKbmy.jpeg

Edited by cs2000
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Il get some videos when I can, not at home until the weekend again.

 

I'm loving it though ;)

 

As a side bonus, if you unplug this thing from your car when you leave it (its only 1 plug) nobody can steal your car as the fuel injectors aren't getting any power and therefore no fuel ;)

Edited by cs2000
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  • 2 weeks later...

Manages to sort out some brief videos today.

 

First one is simply me testing the feature by engaging the launch mode, but no launch, this is set at 3,500 RPM

 

Second one, is of course the launch. Yes it is a public road, but the road ahead was clear (as I waited) and behind was empty, plus I stopped at the speed limit :)

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Nice. Any videos of it flat shifting?

Il take some if/when I can. I did disable the WOT shifting as my gearbox has the issue with the worn syncro's, however ive been instructed to widen the ignition cut time which should allow me to perform this, not tested yet but will do so and report back. In the standard setting, I can WOT shift 3,4 and 5th gears, but I have worn meshes between 1>2 and 5>6.

 

Veeg33, cant promise anything, but I'm want to start working on a UK version of this, especially for our cars which will be plug and play. This isn't really my area of expertise though...

Edited by cs2000
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  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry to dig up such an old thread but I'm really interested in these WOT boxes but I'm kinda worried about them damaging the motor. Have you still got this installed on your car and has it had any issues, I've heard they put increased pressure on the crank. 

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Hi Jake,

 

I did a lot of reading before I fitted this and didn't see anything like that. I can only see that being a possibility in turbo applications, I don't see how holding the RPM by cutting fuel can put pressure on the crank, its not as though I'm building up pressure (as you would be in F/I applications). Have used no lift shift loads too.

 

Ive had it fitted now for almost a year and not seen any issues with it so far. Used it a few times on the road, which is probably ill advised, but I have attended 3 drag racing sessions with the car/system and obviously it got used and abused there with no ill effects.

Edited by cs2000
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On 8/5/2017 at 13:23, cs2000 said:

Hi Jake,

 

I did a lot of reading before I fitted this and didn't see anything like that. I can only see that being a possibility in turbo applications, I don't see how holding the RPM by cutting fuel can put pressure on the crank, its not as though I'm building up pressure (as you would be in F/I applications). Have used no lift shift loads too.

 

Ive had it fitted now for almost a year and not seen any issues with it so far. Used it a few times on the road, which is probably ill advised, but I have attended 3 drag racing sessions with the car/system and obviously it got used and abused there with no ill effects.

Awesome thanks for the speedy response guess I'll order mine now then :D

 

Just a heads up, I placed an order on PSITuning and even though their website doesn't state they're out of stock they are. And they won't be getting any in for a few weeks, tempted to get a refund and order it directly from the land of the Bald Eagle.

Edited by Jake.Lowther
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  • 4 weeks later...

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