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Posted

Going to buy a 350z tomorrow.

It's a 2006 convertible ( gunmetal)

What should I be looking for on inspection.

There's 50k on the clock and it's an automatic.

Any feedback appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

Posted

Basically just do all the usual secondhand car checks. Eg: Like checking for rust in common areas; exhaust/rear wheel arch wells etc. Make sure all the electrics work; lights, hood, windows etc.

 

Guide for new members/potential owners here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/22880-guide-for-new-memberspotential-buyers/

Buyers guide: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/77426-buyers-guide/

350Z service schedule (good to take a long when viewing Zeds so you know whether it's been serviced as per the schedule): http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/31110-service-schedule-for-a-350z/

 

Sure some others will have more tips for you. Good luck with the Zed viewing and welcome aboard. :thumbs:

Posted

I like to use my hands to 'feel' over parts of the body which you might suspect as being crashed/repaired, it may seem odd to the seller but who cares, it's your money your parting with! Check for any excessive creaks or rattles when driving, these can be a real pain to identify and fix sometimes.

Posted

I like to use my hands to 'feel' over parts of the body which you might suspect as being crashed/repaired, it may seem odd to the seller but who cares, it's your money your parting with! Check for any excessive creaks or rattles when driving, these can be a real pain to identify and fix sometimes.

 

Magnet helps too.

Posted

If you have a test drive, drive slowly over a bumpy area to try and listen if the arms are OK is my tip or ask when they were last replaced as mine went quite quickly when I first got mine

Posted

If you have a test drive, drive slowly over a bumpy area to try and listen if the arms are OK is my tip or ask when they were last replaced as mine went quite quickly when I first got mine

Posted

also check to make sure the oil pressure gauge reads between minimum and max on the display, with circa 30psi difference between warm idle and 6th cruising speed so ie 15psi and 30psi in 6th.

 

tyre and brake wear, bitting point of the clutch. check each gear goes in smooth while engine off and not using the clutch.

david

Posted

also check to make sure the oil pressure gauge reads between minimum and max on the display, with circa 30psi difference between warm idle and 6th cruising speed so ie 15psi and 30psi in 6th.

 

tyre and brake wear, bitting point of the clutch. check each gear goes in smooth while engine off and not using the clutch.

david

Posted

Check the hood works fully. The hoods have a tendancy to stick half way whilst opening. Closing it slightly, then reopening can help it get by the sticking point. The manual actually says dont use the hood if the temperature outside is less than something like 8 degrees.

 

Inside the car, look above your head at the metal supports which go from side to side under the hood. On mine, the metal around the one above my head started to peel away from the support member.

 

Other than that, check the usual things such as how much brake pads are left, tyre tread, does it need a service soon, any advisories on the MOT etc.. and use them as negociation points. The front bumpers are very prone to stone chips, so dont be surprised if thats been resprayed - pretty normal.

Posted

Arms?

 

 

Sorry, the front compression arms they have a tendency to go, if you search on here you'll find out a great deal about them. They are normally referred to as banana arms

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