ZMANALEX

New stock just arrived: 10 x HR kits in stock:

This one is for sale and 30k + should buy it. Less than 3000 miles and 5.7lt

You will have to carry out an accurate oil consumption test and report back if you want an informed opinion. What colour is the "smoke" Brand, and a change in oil viscosity might help as would installing a catch can. If you are getting excessive blue smoke on cold start up then that would suggest worn valve stem oil seals or worm valve guides. Excessive blue smoke on hard acceleration would suggest worn pistons, rings, or bores. Once you report back with the oil consumption numbers, further recommendations will follow. Are you running OEM cats, sport cats, or decats? Also with the ambient temperature being a bit cooler, you can expect extra exhaust emissions.

You say in your first post that it only smokes on hard acceleration. Your second post says that it only does it on start up. Which is it? Also how many miles do you get per 1lt of oil? What is the mileage of your car?

OEM in stock and good to go same/next day.

Some images for you. Make sure that the drain route is clear which is highlighted with the welding rod. Just drop me a PM if I can help you further.

Good roof seals are in stock. There should be no splits. Photos will be posted up tonight.

It will fit after a fashion however, it will not marry up with the arch liners, also the reflector apertures are different sizes, but the main fitment issues will be the headlamp washer apertures and mounting points where the facelift washer parts will not fit prefacelift and visa-versa. Best to stick with a facelift rev up replacement.

Water ingress from the top front is usually down to a worn/perished/badly fitting out of shape seal and drawing on my experiences a new seal is the fix. Been a year since I have replaced a seal so will have a look for you tomorrow when next in the shop and give you a shout back.

Replacement seals are in stock if required. I will check on the "split" that you refer to when I am back in the shop.

New and preowned oil caps are in stock mate and may also have the weatherstrip but would have to check for you.

In stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

How did you get on with all the other previous suggestions that I provided you with?

Tar and glue remover will soon get that off.

Yes, the alternative would be to upgrade the CSC as the OEM CSCs are known to fail suddenly and prematurely. Depending on mileage it may be wise to upgrade the clutch and fly when the box is dropped.

Ph Abbey Motorsports in Surrey, they have contacts in TDI North.

It could be many things giving you this issue and there is a set step by step procedure to follow in providing an informed diagnoses, but before we go there I can confirm that there are no hydraulics on the roof operation. The first thing to do is to make sure that you have a FULLY CHARGED GOOD BATTERY. If in doubt just buy a proper new battery. The engine must be running when you operate the roof. The ambient temperature must be above +6 degrees C, but I advise above +10degrees C. Run the car with the heater on full hot for 30 minutes to warm up the fabric if temp is your issue. The roofs do tend to get a bit sticky if not used for a while so keep the mechanisms well greased. Sometimes the roof requires a little push/pull just to get it going again, but do not force it. If any of the above is not your issue, let me know and I will send over the factory technical manual for the roof operation.

Best to hook up a code reader so that you can pull and check the fault codes. This will give you an informed indication on where to look next. Send me over the DFCs and I will help you with your diagnoses and I will probably have the parts in stock for a quick fix.

Only 3 x HR kits left in stock.

Only 1 x DE set left in stock. More due into stock this week.

Please read my last message, lock out plates can not be used with the toe bolts. Just head to an informed geo shop with bolts and template in hand

Okay, let's take a step back. You have fitted camber adjusting arms to the rear so that should take care of the camber, and you can also fit lock out plates to these. If you are running the stock rear spring carriers then you can not fit standard adjustable toe arms. If you want adjustable toe arms on the rear, you will require something like the image below, (these are what I run) and also use lock out plates, however these are expensive and overkill for your application. Perhaps in hindsight you should have bought a pair of camber arms and a set of toe bolts as a kit. However the toe bolts are available on there own, but please note that the bolt hole in the subframe will require elongated using a template which should be supplied with the bolts, you can not use lock out plates with these bolts. https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/spc-performance-nissan-350z-02-08-rear-camber-toe-bolts-pair.html

Yeah, they will do, however, I am not a fan of Driftwork stuff but they will do the job of getting your geo dialed back in. What brand of Camber arms did you buy?

This is what you require to lock the toe and traction.

No drilling required for the lock outs, they simply replace the snail cam adjusters.