Ekona

I think the wear issue is worth re-stating again, just for clarity. If Tyres A lasts for 10K miles and costs £100, and Tyre B lasts for 25K miles and costs £200, Tyre B is still the better buy regardless of how you drive. The fact that Tyre B is also the class leader in handling and noise is just a bonus.

Good luck getting one of those for less than £18K.

Wow, sh*t got real on this thread without my help. That's a first. The OP asked if there was any tyre noticeably better than what he has now. Unless you're prepared to argue that the 040s are as good as the MPSS, then I'd argue this thread was done about 40 posts ago. Even if you never go anywhere near the extra performance available from the MPSS, the wear rate and wet grip alone make them ideal for anyone from Johnny Speedster to Doris Shopping-trolley. When the numpty pulls out in front of you or slams the anchors on unexpectedly, you may very well be glad that you spent a bit extra getting a tyre that gives maximum grip in all conditions and reduces braking distances.

You have no idea the amount of spell checking I do

I don't like the outside either, tbh. It does look a bit droopy and saggy and bulbous, but I do like the colour and the inside is massively better than the 370Z. Still not a patch on the equivalent BMW or Audi, but it's a bit bifferent and probably has a bit more character than anything from either brand (M/RS cars excluded).

It is the best for: Dry road handling Wet road handling Wear rate Noise and fuel economy are irrelevant in a a car that does 23mpg and is noisy from the factory, IMHO. That said, the tyres are marked as C and E for fuel economy front and rear respectively, which beats the 453 at F for both, and they're marked as 71dB which is less than the 72dB again for the 453. Wet handling is defined as A, up against the B of the 453. Even the AD08 (a very good tyre) only achieves fuel efficiency of F, noise of 75 and wet handling of B. I agree with the general point that best is subjective (hell, I've used that argument myself enough times!), but really the MPSS is so far ahead of the competition that it makes the point null and void.

They might, but that would probably then make 2/3 of the internet dyslexic which is significantly higher than the norm. If we assume that 10% actually are dyslexic (as per the BDA), then that makes approx 50% of people who post gibberish nonsense (even though they have a full keyboard in front of them and completed over 10 years of full-time eduction) just lazy. Given that, I'm massively confident that when I pick someone up on atrocious posting, I've a better than 1/5 chance of being correct Also, we all know that any argument on the internet is immediately rendered invalid by a single typo.

Okay.

I genuinely have no idea what speed the Aventador was doing, but the Mazda was 100% to blame here. Utter *****.

So out of curiosity, did you ever get round to making sure that everyone you sold bits to actually got their stuff or got refunds? I remember you were a bit lacking on that last time.

Ditch all four and get the MPSS all round. Just changing the backs to MPSS will give you loads of understeer due to the 040s (presumably?) having much less grip in all conditions.

Either works for me

It makes more difference on a stock exhaust: On an aftermarket exhaust, you'll hear that over any intake noise.

Master cylinder has gone. Same thing happened to me, which is why I tell everyone to do slave AND master at the same time.

It was the first stuff I ever bought, years ago.

As basic as that stuff is, it's very good for beginners and certainly does what it says on the tin (bottle).

To save you time: There is none. Which is why there's no case law to back it up, either.

Point me to the exact law that says they're illegal, or invalidate insurance.

DECATS ARE NOT ILLEGAL FOR ROAD USE. THEY DO NOT INVALIDATE INSURANCE. DO I NEED TO PUT THIS IN BIGGER WRITING? OR MAYBE BOLD TEXT? AAAARRRRRGGGGHHHHH

5 hours book time sounds reasonable to me.

Drying towel is an essential part of cleaning, especially in a hard water area. I always have a couple at least, as they lose effectiveness over time.

No help at all, you're stuffed. As Gixxer says, you should've washed again before polishing.

Definitely another wash and dry to remove them, you may well have to polish & wax again I'm afraid. A quick spritz of QD during the drying phase goes a long way towards preventing water marks. The spray wax you're putting on it only adding cover over them, not removing them.

:lol:

Now that is one of the best questions I've yet seen asked about the 370Z, and it's a very important one too. Is the software clever enough to adapt to a lighter flywheel, ot do you have to stick with OEM? Irrelevant for me of course, as I'm a driving god and would never use the synchro matching stuff as I can heel and toe with perfection every time*, but it would certainly help other folks who want to upgrade. Certainly the lighter flywheel in a 350Z transformed the car. *This may not be entirely true