Ekona

lol wut? Boost controller controls boost levels, dump valve vents excess pressure when the throttle plate closes to prevent the turbo stalling. Assuming you actually have a turbo setup, what made you ask the question in the first place?

Different on the REVUP then? Mine will spin all it wants in a perfectly straight line in the soaking wet, not that I particularly want it to. It's very sharp when kicking in when the back slips out though so it's not like it's malfunctioning or anything, and I'm on stock Rays + tyre sizes.

^^^ Best idea yet.

How do you mount it behind the mesh though? Unless it's big holed mesh it'll constantly be going off as it'll have an obstruction in front of it, and if the holes are that big you'll be able to see the sensors and it'll still look daft. They'll have to be mounted pretty low anyway to be able to 'see' the kerb, else they'll never go off.

Car Acne looks bad enough on the back, let alone on the front. No technical reason you couldn't do it, but it'd look bloody awful and you'd be admitting to the whole world you can't drive. Either learn to park further away from the kerb or take the splitter off.

+millionty Don't mix 'n' match, especially in the winter as you'll end up in a ditch.

Only if one wheel is spinning faster than the other. If both are identical, then you can sit there and spin the rears all day long. It should come on as soon as you get the arse out to any great degree though, so there's something not quite right there. Without actually trying it (unless you've got some private land), do you think you could spin the car with enough throttle when turning? Mine allows a small amount of slip in this weather as there's simply not enough grip even if the TCS kicks in straight away, but it kills the power long before I get get into any real trouble.

I'd like to see them race again but this time swapping drivers: The guy in the Zed was clearly better (or knew the track/car better) than the one in the S2K, just look at his lines.

I'd eat from her lady garden to get a free car.* *Of my choice, I'm not touching her for a Corsa or summat.

It's fine unless you're the one who bought the kit in the first place as you'll often find you have to do a ridiculous amount of miles to have made it worth the initial outlay, but if you can get a car already done with the right kit by the right people then go for it. Don't forget though that when it gets really popular the price of LPG will shoot up as the Government will tax the arse off it just to get a few more quid in the coffers

Depends on how you drive. If you're happy with the OEM ones then there's no point spending money just for the sake of it, however if you're finding the OEM lacking in bite, feel and fade (like I did) then by all means change them. The better your brakes are, the quicker you'll be able to go. I swapped mine for a set of Performance Friction ones, and the difference was astounding. Cost was about £300 for all four corners.

Pop round mine if you want Rich, still got the laptop here with the reader all set up.

That's a bit unfair, COD5 isn't that bad... I've yet to play GoW2 but I can't believe it's not better than COD5, which was a poor rip-off of COD4 and another reason why they should just let Infinity Ward makes these games and not Treyarch.

If you get more than 200 you're not driving it properly

They're ace, you'll love them

If you're used to the car, yes. Mine used to kick in all the time when I first got the car, but now it's only vary rarely on the odd occasion that I even bother having it on. Having driven in this: I'd say that it makes no difference in seriously heavy rain whether the ESP is on or off. On ice or snow however I couldn't say, as I've never driven my car in those conditions.

Ah, if he just replaced the radiator of the chargecooler for a larger one that could well explain the decreased inlet temps. Isn't the Esprit 'box a Renault one? I seem to recall reading that somewhere when I was doing my research into buying one, which sadly never happened in the end as I saw sense and realised my pockets were sadly not bottomless. Money no object though, I'd have a Sport300 in a heartbeat.

That'd be great, cheers mate!

He's already spinning the wheels too much with the ESP on, I don't think turning it off is a great idea in this weather. Nathan has said as much already in his first post, and I would agree with him that that's definitely the safest course of action.

And no, it was this one:

A chargecooler is more efficient at removing the heat as it's a water-based system, working in a similar (well, identical) way to the radiator that keeps your engine cool. Water is a more efficient conductor of heat than air, and a CC setup is particularly better suited to hot climates as you won't suffer from heat soak anywhere near as much as an IC setup. Granted that's less of an issue with an SC car than a TT one, but it's still a better solution in most cases. The only downside is cost and space needed. Be interested to hear about your brother's setup on the Esprit, got any more details on what he did?

Which is why I'd go for an SC setup for track work and TT for the road, as you're never pushing as hard and the turbo would make lighter work of long straights. @Alex: Can I ask why you'd go for an intercooler over a chargecooler, given that the chargecooler will be hugely more effective at controlling temps? Is there some specific reason (like maybe lack of space to fit all the required pumps and barrels and bits), or just personal preference?

Utter rubbish. Chargecooler is always preferable to an intercooler, it's just more expensive and needs more space to install. Given your location, that's what I'd be going with, even if it means going with some custom fabrication. Tbh unless outright power is your thing, then the difference between how each setup will apply the power is more important than anything. Do you want something that feels like a larger NA engine, or something that gives you a proper kick in the back when it kicks in?

Really? I leave mine on all the time, but figured as how there's no light on the switch and the seat is stone cold when I get in the next day, it's definitely not on. Maybe it's different for earlier cars?

Tried running some Vaseline over the seals?