Ekona

An engine transplant would also be arguably more reliable than an FI setup as there's less bits to go wrong, especially with the LS swaps as all the electrics (the main change) are pretty much done for you. Comparing it with a TT setup really is missing the point as you've got completely different power deliveries, and in that sense it's far closer to an SC kit although with less moving bits and a better noise (IMHO). Given the relative cost of doing all conversions is more or less equal, the only major downside to the LS swap over the other two is that it's a hell of a lot more ballache to go back to stock when it's time to sell. You could sell the car as is of course, but you can write off most of your invested capital if that's the case unless you get the right buyer.

The 3L turboed lump in the Z4 has masses of torque, so I wouldn't be too quick to dismiss it if I were you. Given that Nismo of late (with regard to the road cars at least) have become a sanitised version of what they used to be, a few extra ponies and some above average suspension bits really won't make that much difference in the grand scheme of things, although they will make for a better connection between driver and car. Having just seen that video again, check out the arms of the driver in the Cayman: They're all over the place towards the end of the video. I'm not saying that he can't drive for peanuts as he may well simply have gotten bored by that point, but that's not what I'd expect of a top (or even average) driver. The more I look at that video, the more I'm convinced that it was staged for shock value so that people would watch it.

Exactly Chris, those TG laps count for absolutely nothing. May as well toss a coin to see which is quicker

Different drivers takes any realistic comparison right out of that comparison, especially as they're racing. That said, I'd still expect the Zed to finish last out of that lot (or maybe close to the Z4) anyway as the Porkers are by a fair way the better cars. Then again, you'd hope so too being more expensive.

How is more power and waaaaaaay more torque from an NA lump with a ridiculous amount of tuning potential with very similar rev ranges as stock 'ruining' the car? Those LS engines are far better than the VQ35DE as far as performance goes.

Could well be a grounding issue, check all your connections

Cheers Rich, will check it out.

Wow, thanks for all the replies! Loads of info here to be getting on with and I've got a much better idea now as to what I'm after and where to look, which was exactly what I was after. Am very tempted by the HPI Trophy 3.5 as it seems to be a decent buy at that price, but will have a look at the Traxxas stuff in more detail before I make a concrete decision. Anyone know or can recommend a shop somewhere near Braintree, or anywhere in Essex really?

I know there's a few people on here into these, so I wonder if any of you gents would be so kind as to point me in the right direction here? In short, I went round to see an old friend at the weekend and we ended up playing with his Tamiya Thunder (I think) buggy in the local park, and it was so much fun even after we snapped the front driveshafts and cracked the chassis that I've decided that I absolutely have to get myself one of these. Thing is, I've no idea where to start! I've looked around the interwebs and there's loads of different names about but I don't know which ones are good and which to avoid. Ideally I really want just a box full of parts that I can build myself from scratch so I can really learn about these things, and I also don't want to be stuck with something that I'm going to get bored of quickly because I can't go out and buy any upgrade bits. Any hints would be greatly appreciated chaps.

There's your answer, women are always the issue when it comes to losing track of money

For sale, one set of OEM 18" alloys encased in a set of Michelin Pilot Sport 2 tyres! 2nd picture shows tread remaining on the rears, 3rd picture shows tread remaining on the fronts. As you can see the rears have a couple of mm left, however the fronts are down to the wear markers so really don't have that much life left in them. That said, they will easily do another trackday or two (depending on how you drive!) and the rears even more I suspect. They are of course the correct sizes for the Zed, 225/45/18 front and 245/45/18 rears. Think of it like this: It's either a set of OEM wheels for you to use while you get your current wheels refurbished somewhere (my original use for them) and a set of tyres, or it's a set of of Michelin Pilot Sport 2 tyres which are widely regarded as THE best tyres available for the Zed for you to try on a trackday of your choice at a fraction of the original cost. Might even convince you that they really are worth the extra expense over normal tyres...! £100 secures, collection from Braintree (home) or Stansted Airport (work) only please.

For sale, one original ESR K1 exhaust purchased from Big Phil himself! I'm sure I don't need to tell you much about this exhaust but it really wouldn't hurt to say that it really is one of the true great sounding exhausts for the 350Z, and driving through tunnels without the inserts will remain one of my favourite Zed memories forever Speaking of inserts, I do also have the original inserts for this exhaust (not pictured) which have been modified to remove the sharp edges for easier insertion, and also painted matt black with high-temp paint so that they're not quite as obvious when you've got them in. The exhaust was on my car for approximately a year and was only removed as it wouldn't pass Bedford's ridiculously tight drive-by noise regs: I did successfully track it at Anglesey and Woodbridge and never had a complaint over noise. The limits were tested at 103.5dB with bungs out and 94dB with them in. £100 secures, and collection from Braintree (home) or Stansted Airport (work) only please.

Handjob from a hooker or a bag of coke.

Glad I'm not the only one thinking along those lines then. I'm wondering if, much like Greekman's paint change, it's an early warning sign built in by Brembo, just like when the whole caliper changes colour (something I never knew, I must admit).

Bit of an odd/daft one, this. The lettering on the front calipers on my Brembo brakes has turned from a bright red colour (as it comes from the factory) to a deeper mahogany colour, and I'm unsure as to whether this is usual or not. The caliper itself is the same gold colour as it always has been and is on other cars I've seen (and not discoloured like Greekman's brakes were), and this is only happening on the front calipers: The rears are fine. I'm figuring it's still something to do with heat though as I'm no longer on a stock Brembo setup, currently I'm using Performance Friction discs and pads on the front but only the PF pads on the rear along with the Endless RF650 fluid. I figure that this will allow a greater build up of heat before any nasty fade sets in on track (and since I've yet to experience any fade on track with this setup, I think I'm on the right lines), but there is absolutely no degradation in performance on this setup at all. It still pulls up as smartly as it ever has done, and evenly too so no random snatching of corners as the ABS figures out what's going on as I had on the OEM discs with the PF pads. In short, am I looking at any kind of early-warning here? Greekman, did you notice any discolouration like this before yours got to the point of no return? Or is there nothing to worry about as long as the caliper itself remains the gold colour it should be? Would appreciate any opnions/views on this.

Where did the data come from? I only ask I really can't see a 986 S (assuming it's the older version on test) being over half a second slower 80-120 (which in itself is a daft measurement in the real world, but I digress) in 3rd than the 350Z. Not saying it didn't, just that it seems very unlikely to me. *EDIT* Ah, read the graph wrong, that's kph not mph so a very real world test That said, that makes the time taken even less likely IMHO.

Not as much fun on the stock exhaust though

Just go to somewhere you trust. My local Nissan dealer is ace if a trifle expensive, but then I trust them to look after the car as I've got a good rapport with them. They would get my money over an average independent every day. That said, the car is going to DMS next week for a clutch replacement as they're a good £250+ cheaper than Nissan and will do just (if not better) a job: It's only the extra distance involved that means they're not my first point of call in the first place.

If Coops is looking after her, can you not give him the money and ask if he can take it to get serviced for you? Best of both worlds then.

Turbo shove counts for a lot, and given that the 0-60 is about the same once moving the ST will more than likely pull well clear of a Zed. Chuck a £200 remap onto the ST as well and it would leave the Zed for dust. Doesn't really matter to me though as I know which I'd prefer to be driving, but that wasn't really the point I was trying to make.

Nope, because my penis is big enough thanks

Without trying to sound brash, who cares? Every car will be different and you'll never match any time that Nissan quote for 0-60 as you can't hate your car that much. The Zed really isn't about full-on power or nimble handling, it's a watered down combination of the two wrapped in a very sleek (well, for the coupe anyway!) package and that's why it's such a great car to drive. An MR2 mk3 will outhandle it and a Focus ST will out drag it, and yet I know which car I'd rather be sitting in. The Zed in any form is quick enough for the road as stock, and if it's not then I'd be looking for a different car tbh. That little rant over with, and to be slightly more helpful, try using the search function on this site to see what others have posted in the past with regards to times, and it'd be worth looking over on my350z for info as well. Carfolio has just about every piece of tech data you could want as well, although I'm sure all that info is already on the forums.

The only thing CTRs had going for them was the engine. Steering feel was rough, brakes patchy, gearchange passable and they look like breadvans, but not in a good way. I like the looks of the latest version, but again it's a step backwards with more weight and no more power.

Brilliant news, can't wait to see it in June when I go back out there!

Yours is an '05 so it's the older engine and interior. Easy as that. Easiest way is to look where your hazard light switch is: In front (06+) or behind of the gearstick. It was 2006 when they started playing around with bits.