Rob_Quads

As said - if you are moving the wheels out of the factory specs offset then there are risks in the same way putting straight wheels on with the wrong offset. Don't confuse the effects of bad offset with spacers

Bose is now in the loft Shame I am missing the subs at the moment but even with just the front end is soo much better. Much clearer too

I agree its a fair price but the market for that sort of car is tiny.

I recon you would probably have more chance of shifting it and making the money you are looking for by returning it back to standard as your looking for a fairly old premium over standard. Good luck

Interested in the switch panels on thier own but not as group Are these carbon trim panels or replacement items?

Because my drive is on a 30 degree angle and don't fancy jacking the car up on the street with cars going past frequenty. I will get a chance at the weekend hopefully but thought someone might know beforehand.

very funny

Anyone know.... How long the standard stud is proud of the hub and then proud of the brake disk? Am I right in thinking the studs are.. Thread - M12x1.25 Spline diameter - 14.2mm

Not an idea answer but what about these guys - they do world wide shipping http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-3 ... enameZWD2V

I prefer http://movies.apple.com/trailers/newlin ... /1080p.mov

Its a shocking attitude from CS. If the corrosion is from the curbing I agree you should not be replaced but if the spokes are corroding and the lips is curbed it should make no difference as it would not affect the spokes

IMO Nothing wrong with hubcentric spacers as long as you are keeping the offset within the recommended specs. If you have a wheel sitting at ET30 via a 20mm spacer and the same wheel sitting at ET30 with no spacer the only difference between the two will be the extra weight of the bolts/studs. OK the metal is not part of the wheel but as long as its all bolted up properly should not make any difference. If you start veering away from the proper offsets then spacers or no spacers you are running the same risk of potential tracking/camber/bearing issues

Completly valid question which I agree when I asked got the the "oh if you worry about petrol forget it" which is just stupid. I have it as an only car, doing mostly local journerys (only 5 miles to work) with the occasional 100 mile weekend round trip. And a 500 round trip a couple times a year. THe cost for me have been roughly £450 insurance (27/7yrsNCB/Good Area) £162 Service (£122 service + Oil) £20 Wipers £100 Brakes sometime later this year Hopefully that will be it for this 12 months (only 3 months in). Petrol has been £420 for just under 2000 miles with 23.3 MPG I get around 18-20MPG doing down driving and 30MPG doing 80mph motorway driving Hopefully that will help work out if you can afford it

You have to remember that JDM prices plummet pretty quickly. Have a look at similar JDM 2yr old cars. If they are even going for 18K which I think is the most they would do, £20,000 loss in 2 years is just not feasible. Putting it closer to the 26K would be more reasonable but still pushing it with around a 10K loss in 2 years. There is also the question of how much would it cost me to do it all myself and just import a brand new car. I bet it would not be far off the UK price but not that much more.

It probably would be possible but I probably illegal as it will be copyrighted material. That said what he is selling is probably illegal as I bet he has not gained permission to sell it. I wonder if it is even the UK manual. The US ones are around for download so nothing stopping him grabbing one of those.

It also says its a Porsche manual at the bottom of the description?

I did notice when I put in my stereo how small the factory earthing strap was. I put a second one on to make sure I did not have any issues with the stereo. Going to do the earthing kit soon when I can steal some 4 AWG from a friend

The easiest solution would be to keep the existing one and just tint the windows - then you will never know its a US car It works well with the site design IMO

Are they complete carbon parts or are the trimmed factory parts? If complete carbon do they come with all the same fixings as factory parts?

What about a matching coated strut?

OK my effort next. Really need to give it a proper clean for the winter but not bad for a quick wash and polish

I did the same - got the flashy sony first then realised the error of my ways - I had a half decent system and just changing the HU from sony to alpine made a staggering amount of difference. Now I swear by Alpine HUs Your right about dynamat, My doors sound really tinny how they have some really good components in them. Want to dynamat the lot but can't see me doing it. The door card is probably the worse. Might have a go at putting some on there.

You shouldn't get orange peel on a powdercoat Was that just normal paint?

Looking at the way the front wheel is sitting I am guessing that alot of the front suspension is screwed, this could have also caused damage in a number of places like engine if a brace etc got pushed up into it. For an insurance company write off a car like that then I would expect to see around £10,000+ worth of damage. Looking at it from vision I would say.... Panels (Skirs/Wings/Bumpers) £1,000 Bracing + brackets £300 Wheel £500 Suspension £2000 Steering £1000 (if it did the rac etc) THat is not even half of the amount it would need it to be meaning the will be some serious damage hidden away Intreeged to know what the red thing on the middle of the battery is

I think you are going to struggle a huge amount to get a low dropping RnB style music without creating a new box using the boot. Using the stock location it mayb be possible but it will require a lot of custom work which all = cost Even buying the stuff from the states you are still talking about a lot of money for the sort of system you are talking about power wise etc. although I think 2.5K is way over what you need. I would expect that a proper system with 500W, 1000W max rms would be able to power a sub to your needs. H5 does bring up the very valid point about power figures. It can have its +ves and -ves. The JL amps do have regulators which mean they only push out what they say they do but there are many amps out there which do quote at 12v so it means when the car is running i.e. 13.5/14v then you will get more power out of these amps - if you mostly listen to the system with the engine running this means you will get getting extra power most of the time.