Rob_Quads

Surely £200 for flights/ ferrys are not really something to argue over if you are spending 6.5/7K. I would rather spend that little bit more and then know its under warranty.

Sure with a little play with an angle grinder I could get a 12" in there with a custom pod. If I was properly modding my 350 I would go for it but think I will stick to my 8s. Hopefully actually will get them in this weekend and can write up what I have done.

Yup H2s prices are a good guide. An alternative setup could be... Amp - Audison LRX 4.300 - £490 Speakers - Focal 165V2 - £220 Sub - Focal 27V2 - £190 or if you spent that bit more... Components - Focal 165K2P £400 Component Amp- Audison LRX 2.250 £330 Sub - Focal 27KX £370 Sub Amp - Audison LRX 1.400 £400 As you can see you can quickly start to spend a lot of extra money. But the difference between the first set with Dynamat and the second set without would not ba a huge amount. That said - both with dynamat there would be an audiable difference

That sounds like an expensive list. I would say it sounds like you are best doing it in stages when you can afford it - along the lines of.... 1 ) Headunit + Sound Deadending 2) Replacement Front Speakers 3) Amp for Comps + Sub & Sub If you have a budget of 1.2K I would say you might should look at maybe 1 & 2 for now and them the rest later. To soundproof the 350z is not a cheap - comes down to how much IMO you need to do the outer door skins and boot floor.

See all comes down to views - i.e. I would never go with a Nismo kit as I think the rear bumper bits like look like some stuck on after thought. They should have done it properly and designed it all in to a replacement bumper. The side skirts I am also not too fond of as I don't think they compliment any of the shapes on the car. The front bumper however do I like and would put on as a single piece.

I bet in a 350z I would get back to my parents (1hr) no quicker than Mr £2000 Mondeo man without driving way over the limit the 2CV is a bit of an extreme. It all comes down to preferances - some are happy to waste/spent an extra 10K on quick acceleartion while others think its pointless and enjoy a 6 month holiday instead. lol That could used to qualify any sort of mod be it performance, cosmetic, audio etc.

You fashion victim As for why do people mod things - There are various factors 1 being inviduality. What you might think looks crap someone else might well like. You only have to look at the clothes people wear to see how large a range of tastes there are. A good example is the Max Power 350z - I love the styling and colour of the outside but I think the inside is aweful. Also some people enjoy doing the modifications. I try and do as much as I physically can myself as I enjoy the process whether its bodywork , stereo, machanical etc etc. It would be easy to say. Whats the point of modifying an engine? Its not as if you are going to get to your destination any quicker as the laws prevent that. If you are going out on a track why not get a proper track car and play around with that like an Elise/Caterham. Same with stereos - some thing - why bother

Morning. As far as connectors - if you have the Bose unit you will need the Autoleads PC2-77-4 (Micra 4 speaker Adapter). Once you use this the Bose amp will NOT be turned on First Off - Head units - Personally I would always Alpine - They do a double din if you really want to go for one - IVA-W200Rihttp://www.alpine-europe.com/content/english/a2467.det.IVA-W200Ri_DVD-CD-MP3-WMA--Receiver---Mobile-Media-Station.htm I would not bother with the rear speakers, in a car the size of the Z there really is no point in them. Save you money for a better amp and comps for the front. I would either go for a 2-way amp and a monoblock if you can afford to or a 4 way amp and bridge two channels for the sub. What to actually go for in terms of speakers / amps all comes down to money. You could spent £300 and get a very budget system, £600 and get a better one or £1000 and a really good one....etc In terms of subs are you looking to use the stock location? If so I would recommend either getting a box made up or sealing up the existing one properly using fibreglass etc.

Sorry - just have high standards and get really pi**ed off with some of the poor quality stuff that a high % of companies turn out (specially the UK ones)

Not looking at these pics its not This may be how the original fits but IMO looks aweful. Surly it should be developed to go into the gap in the bumper otherwise its just going to get clogged with road grime and then be a nightmate to clean

Sorry - just re-read it and missed the table at the bottom. Handy it says the ones I am getting are also fine

By the way the TUV thing does not really mean a lot. All it means is that they have passed safety tests and are manufactured well. You could get 200mm spacers that have TUV approval but putting them on your car will do it nooooo amounts of harm. The TUV doc you have is the general one for all of the Eibach range, its not one specifically saying that the Eibachs are suitable for used on the Nissan 350z.

By driving over careful. When you have all that power I would much rather drive it as hard as i can and let the traction control handle it if it goes belly up rather than drive it below the potnetial

Anyone ever had to claim on thier warranty to get the tailgate buffers replaced? I find that at least 50% of the time my boot does not un-catch on the first press and it needs a second one to fully release. I've seen a 'hack' of putting coins behind the springs but as mines in warranty I think I will get it done the proper way.

You won't be saying that when hes wiped out a row of cars due to the back end spinning up. I would not think of turning off ESP on the public road. IMO its best left for when you are playing on an track or airfield.

Also want to find a new one of the black lips too Here you go Not sure if the teeth will look good on the bottom of the bumper

Thats why I am looking at one - mine has a nice dink from the previous owner. Also want to find a new one of the black lips too

Your new wheels are... Fronts are 25mm bigger in diameter - 5.2% Smaller Rears are 15mm bigger in diameter - 2.2% Smaller Standard Ratio = 1:1.02 Your Ratio = 1:0.99 Looking at it your problem is the fact your rear wheels are smaller than the fronts. This is likely to screw things up.

Is the Nissan real carbon or is it the fake carbon look a like stuff?

Have you kept the wheels total size the same as the standards. The ratio between front and back needs to be maintained when you put after market wheels on otherwise the computer gets confused and would do exactly as you described

The Nismos are.... Fronts ET25 for 18x8.5 Rears ET30 for 18.9.5 Even with wider wheels you 'should' keep the offset the same as it means the wheel is balances as normal. On smaller hatches I have known lots of people talk about not changing offset due to the extra pressure on bearings etc but of the many I know running with screwed offsets I have not heard of anyone who has actually had a problem with bearings (Some are running 60+mm out!!!) I would not worry about it too much if the garage has done it as if there are any problems you will be able to go back and get them to fix it.

lol - I was amazed how easy all the panels came apart when I put in my system. I thought the saxo came apart quickly but the 350z was even quicker, the fiddliest bit of was the centre console and it still was not too hard. Just annoyed I can't put in window closure as i have all the diags but due to the Canbus its just not possible using the normal modules. Both the boot and door switches are not too hard to get to.

Yup Agree - if these did these in blue I think it would be rather good.Would not be too hard to wire them up so the strut one came on with the boot and the door ones came on via the doors. Simple relay circuits

Wow thats interesting. Supprised the delaer would do this with the obvious warranty cover they now have to provide. 15mm on the front of Rays = ET15 25mm on the back = ET8 To me those sound much lower that I would expect most places to do. From what I have read the recommened is around ET25-35 is normal but outside this is considered not the norm.

Yup - its a joke of a system. You can't judge noise by ear as everyones different. There is only 1 way and that by a sound meter. If an officer thinks its excessivly nosy they should get a meter taken out to measure it none of this "I think its noisy" bollocks. I would say there are many many more bikes out there with illegal exhausts than cars